88mjgilley

This is the exact issue i had with my Comanche all my cooling system is new also i ended you removing the Ac condenser and i no longer have a single issue keeping it cool

i just did it to my mj the strikers were easy as can be i then wired the doors up by there selves seems how it was pointless to have them both controlled from the drivers side

what other rigs have you had i go to haspin all the time I'm sure if i saw some of them i would know ya and i wish i was 3 miles instead of 60

a 4 gage wire from the battery to the secondary would work fine,and then just ground it as close as you can to the frame. For charging purposes i normally use a snow plow solenoid hooked into the ingintion. So the battery only receives power when the engine is running. I would mount it in a tool box. Your stock alternator should do perfectly fine charging a second one seems how it won't be doing that big of a draw

wow this is one beautiful MJ i wish i had the space and patience to do a build like this

did you accidentally get a locker for the jk and not a xj mj i just installed my spartan last week and everything went perfect

if your going to do the 97 up dash and all find a xj and swap every thing over

Thanks i looked threw there but didn't see it. i swear any time i look for something i can't find it when I'm not looking for it it will poke me in the eye

ok i know there have been posts on the different lengths but for the life of me i haven't been able to find them. I have a Ba10, 231 combo going in this weekend and i need to figure out what length the drive shaft needs to be. 88 4.0 swb 8.25 rear

i had this issue with my 96 but thats to late of a model to matter here and i actually lost power to one of the feed wires on the ignition switch it would run just fine with it turned to start but as soon as i would let off the key every thing would lose power

sounds like the ignition switch went out

Well i finally got the lift installed It has Rough country 4.5 in Coils, Rustys anti wrap spring perches, Rustys shocks , RC lower non aj lower control arms, lockrite locker up front, and a spartan locker in the rear. I swapped in a HP 30 from a 98 xj and also a 29 spline 8.25 in the rear

i ordered mine from randys ring and pinion should be here tomorrow

there good now and yes my dumb a** put the calipers on the reverse side.... all that wasted time and money that could have went to something else on my build :( thats For the help once again guys

no need for sealant on the 1pc rubber oil pan gasket the thermostat and water pump should be fine with the sealant tho

i replaced all the rubber lines this afternoon haven't replaced any steel lines yet tho

hmm i didn't know they were side specific i will defiantly check that tomorrow

the mc has been bench bled twice

ya all the pump bleeding was done 2man as you said

i have bled them with vac pump, Drip bled, and pumping pedal. Always starting from the Bleeding sequence is RR,LR,RF,LF every time. I have never had a issue with any of the other jeeps Ive built in the past with the brakes not bleeding normally 2-3 times cracking them open per wheel and there good i really just can't figure this thing out.

ive drove it a little you can slightly feal them grab but its not enough to stop with out pumping the hell out of them. And Calipers upside down?

it will stay hard i have been over damn near every inch of brake line looking for leaks, and adjusted the rear shoes to where they were snug on the drum

i have went threw all most 2 gallons of brake fluid trying all the different ways off bleeding, and eliminating different things as a test

i get fluid when bleeding, if i pump the hell out of the pedal it does get stiff but as soon as you let off for a second and hit it again it goes straight back to the floor.

I just lifted, and axle swapped my MJ last night. Ever since then i can not get any Brakes. I have replaced all the Rubber lines, Master Cylinder, eliminated the Load sensing valve. I have attempted to Vac Bleed them, Pump bleed, and drip bleed. It seems like nothing that i Have done has seemed to help. I even Removed the prop. valve and put a T in the for the fronts, and hooked the rear line directly directly into the master cylinder. At this point i really can not figure out what else to do. I am going to put another set of calipers on it tomorrow, and if that doesn't help i am planing on replacing all the steel lines, even tho i don't have any leaks any where. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.