Mattwheels

pre 96 would be easier, but if he as a 99 might as well do a full swap, engine, harness, dash, etc. will be a little tougher but there are tons of write ups on a 97+ swap

I believe there is a notorious ground behind the taillights themselves that has been a problem for many. driver side I think it is.

Plus, only ricers do that crap. well except nascar and pretty much every racing team ;), but because of the use of the tape they found that the tape was pretty much the only thing holding the headers together! now that I've looked it up, I agree Tape is bad, but you can still have them coated with ceramic, or other types of chemicals that will lower the heat in the engine bay and allow the headers to dissipate heat quickly. but now you're talking $$$$

it won't necessarily, but it will let heat escape faster after stopping, and they look cool ;)

hood louvers to let the heat escape, wrap the headers in heat tape to try and keep the heat away from the engine bay, try a 185 or even lower Tstat. and then could remove the clutch fan and add in a second electric, thats about all I can think of for cooling, besides getting a custom radiator.

o2 sensor and ground have been fixed but to no avail, still stumbles around 2k rpm, and back fires a little through the throttle, going to clean the TB, and get a new MAP sensor see if that changes anything.

Hey all! So the comanche is coming right along! so now its basically a 92 comanche, I pulled my Idiot lights cluster (92 electronic speed) with a gauge cluster ( 96 ) So far my fuel gauge, tachometer, and voltmeter all work perfectly, Oil pressure, and temperature aren't working but I have the new sending units on the way, and the only thing I can't get working is the speedometer. The cherokee I pulled the engine and harness from was 2wd so I'm not quite sure where the speedometer was getting its reading from. The transfer case I mated to the new ax15 has a mechanical speedo, do I need to convert that to a electronic? As for the engine stumble, It does it at about 2k rpm and only under load, in neutral it seems to rev just fine to 4-5k, but in any gear once you hit 2k it feels like the engine is going to die, and going WOT has no effect at all, except drop the rpms to 6-700. So far I've changed, Spark plugs, Plug Wires, Cap, Rotor, IAC sensor, and tomorrow I'll be ordering a new o2 sensor. Can a bad ground to the block cause it to stumble? or a bad o2? I unplugged the o2 and drove it around and it still stumbled.

Excellent work on everything, I love the rock sliders, and hope to do something similar myself!!

She's Alive! I don't know what happened to make it start running all of a sudden, but I had a Noid light hooked up and a fuel rail pressure tester on, rail read at 40 psi cranking, and it just started trying to fire up. But I'll be damned if the jeep gods won't keep me from driving, but now my Clutch won't disengage, UGH Brand new Throwout bearing, fork, master and slave (pre bled), pressure plate, and clutch all new! and torqued down to spec.

So to rule out the PCM, I'll be buying a Noid Light tomorrow, yay.

How? Rent a fuel pressure gauge at Autozone or elsewhere and check the fuel pressure at the rail. I pushed down on the Schrader valve and fuel came out, and also I had my fuel lines switched and when I went to pull the fuel line off it had quite the pressure, and fuel, and it made a decent mess! But I can still check for pressure just have to go buy a gauge.

so good news! well maybe.. After using starting fluid in my throttle body it fires up pretty easy, but only until the fluid is burnt off then it dies. So what does that mean? Injectors aren't injecting fluid? bad injectors? They worked fine about 4-6 months ago when I pulled the engine can they go bad for just sitting there? Ballast resisitor is connected, but does it need to be screwed down? does that ground anything?

Thanks for the replies, My comanche is an 89, But the Motor, Flywheel are from a 92, and the ax15 is from ~95-96, Injection system is 92, and by ignition system I'm assuming you mean the Coil? Which is also from 92. When I swapped my cherokee over I took Everything I possibly could, I changed the messy renix wiring system to the 92 fusebox, and inside the cab I took the steering column, inside fusebox everything except the main dash piece. So if I have spark that means my CPS is working correctly right? Had a thought last night that I might have used the wrong CPS(renix) on the new(er) engine. Distributor was never taken off either, I don't have a noid light (the electrical tool correct?) , I know my fuel rail has fuel and pressure, but not sure if the injectors are injecting it, and I haven't tried putting gas or starter fluid in the throttle body. I'll attempt to check the injectors and put some fluid in the throttle tonight! hopefully something works.

Hey all I had a running 4.0 out of a 92 cherokee I pulled to put into my Comanche. I've finally got everything buttoned up at least so I think, and when I try to crank it over to start it all it does is just crank, not even a thought of starting. so far what I've done to try and remedy this is. Checked Ignition coil for Spark, Got it Checked Spark plugs for Spark, Got it Checked Fuel Rail for Fuel, Got it Replaced Spark plug wires Replaced Spark plugs Battery Charged up Now this was my first swap and I've looked at vacuum diagrams and believe I have everything in the right place, Although I do have one wire on my passenger side thats quite long and doesn't have a home.. So far what I'm going to check is Compression test leak down? if I can figure out how. And what I'm thinking of replacing is new Distributor cap New CPS Does anyone have any ideas what else I can do to try and remedy this? Also my fuel gauge isn't reading after I swapped from Idiot lights to a new real gauge Any ideas on that and if it can be leading to my problem? I still have two wires to connect on my HO harness to Rear MJ harness, one is for my brake lights and the other is connecting to my Ebrake.

Even though it says to use a short input, I've heard that you can use a medium without a problem as theres quite a bit of room left even on the short input.

If you want industrial I'd look into the Isuzu motor the 4bd1t. They put more time and effort into NVH and I've heard claims of it being 3 inches shorter than the 4bt. and the power output is nearly identical.

I have 4 door xj bucket seats from a 92 in mine, I'll be keeping an eye out for 2 door bucket seats for the front folding ability.

With the new cross member in it sits perfect, now to find drive shafts

what He said, To power any sub you'll need a stand alone amp. Which will be hooked up directly to your battery. A new head unit will be a huge upgrade over your stock head unit, more power and a lot better sound. When I get to sound I'll be using two digital amps to power the sub(s) and speakers which I think gives you the best quality when properly tuned

here's what my passenger side.looks like with the aw4 comanche cross member hooked up And my driver side looks fine, all the bolts line up just getting it on the truck took persuasion

So I'm getting close to the end of my 89 > 92 swap and Have a couple questions. So I'm going from an AW4 to an AX15 and I know a couple things I need to pick up are the manual 4x4 drive shafts. But the crossmember is one thing I'm thinking about. So I have a crossmember from a 2x4 manual cherokee, and the comanche aw4 cross member. The Manual one seems to be too big by overhanging the "frame" Is this normal? I have managed to kind of squeeze on the aw4 cross member but I feel like its pushing my motor forward on the motor mounts, and it was a huge PITA to get on. I'll try and add some photos tomorrow Is there a difference between a 4x4 and 2x4 crossmember? And does anyone have good vacuum diagrams for a 92 engine, as well as Electrical? I have a single Yellow wire I can't seem to place near the distributor.

I'd just make sure there are no air bubbles in your line, I think that could cause what you're experiencing.

Not at all, I'm swapping everything from my 92 donor to my 89 comanche, its a very simple bolt on process

The engine harness and Dash are two separate pieces, when you look at where the harness goes into the cab from the engine bay on the driver side, in the center of that is a small decently long bolt, its a small pain to get to I used a small wobble extension. The full wire harness/engine/trans swap is a fun project that I'm doing myself. You will need to make a harness yourself too, to connect the XJ dash harness to your MJ rear harness. There is a Pinout guide on this website somewhere

I don't know, but I do know when my gf was a cheerleader for the cowboys she had practically no boobs :-P