Rockfrog

So latest update, picked new (to me) mid size aluminum truck box. Tossed canopy to the wayside, and drive the snot out of the old girl. Way better road manners now for sure. Still have to get bushings for the YJ end links I want to try next. New thought. If the Renix and HO Cams were Th same 87-95, but the 87-90 were 8 degrees advanceded as opposed the later 91-95 being only 4 degrees advanced .... From what I've been reading lately. Wonder if the Renix Timing set will have an effect on the later 97 dual pattern cam ....? Or am I asking for trouble? I have a brand new timing set sitting in my old motor is what drives this question. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Replaced the sway bar, used the TJ swaybar I stole from my '00 XJ trail rig. Need to find 2" shorter end links though, but they work for now. Had to fab some mount adapters to get it into the correct position on the front receiver. Also fixed an issue with the tracbar and finally got around to centering the front axle. Apparently the bracket was drilled to 1/2" but the misalignments were 9/16". Drilled the bracket accordingly and swapped the correct size bolt in. Time for a test drive.

There is a 1/4" head bolt in the middle of it. Undo that and it'll pull away. 1/4" ratchet, 3" wobble extension and a 1/4" regular socket is what I usually use. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah, my 2000 XJ used to have one on the fuel inlet. Not anymore. Was more of a secondary safety. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Anyone happen to have the pinout map for the HO clusters? This is what I was planning to do but on the pigtail I snagged from my HO donor. I have the Renix pinout diagrams (89 FSM set), but haven't found a good diagram for the HO cluster yet. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks, happy to help where I can. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

New injectors are working fine, seems to have eased my fuel consumption issues. One of the 746's was working intermittently so I was running a 5cyl here and there it seems. Trims show the old 97 TJ injectors appear to flow slightly more than the 746's ... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Curious on what you did for an exhaust? Did you re-use the 01 two piece cast manifolds? Always looking for new ideas. What did you do to adapt to the 95 intake? Plate adapter or adapt TPS the throttle body? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The Renix and HO systems use the exact same fuel pressure specs up until 96.The GM 3/8" and 5/16" QD fuel fittings are a perfect fit for the Jeep fuel rails (both Renix and HO) just remove the Jeep plastic clips. The GM fitting are available and in stock at most parts stores. As for Injectors ... Just because you swapped a few bits really isn't going to changes much given what you put in. Treat it like a Renix. The 95 intake is basicly the same intake as the Renix intake with only the fuel rail bosses and the throttle body patterns as the only real differences. There is the slight intake Port height difference as well if you want to get super picky. There isn't going to be enough flow differences between stock heads to warrant more than a "butt dyno" tuning process anyway. Volvo 746's are the gold standard for Renix. Ford 19lb/hr are also a decent match, as are the Neon 703's. Other than the later (97 up) dual pattern Cam, internally there is nearly no difference from one 4.0 to the next. If you check your block you'll even find a 98 casting date (if not an earlier one). Bore, stroke, all the same. Really, other than a fuel management system change little was changed from 87-99 (to 01 in the XJ platform) ... A bit of extra ribbing here an there, a girdle added and an easily backdated change to the cam (the older cam's will still slide in and run in a newer motor). When you take it down to the basics a 4.0 is a 4.0 ... Chrysler didn't have the courage to futz with it too much until 99 (only the WJ's and TJ's got those new block castings) and even then they kinda messed that up a bit up in a few spots. I am currently running a set of stock 97 4.0L injectors as one of my 746's gummed up, not sure if it'll come back. The 97 injectors apparently flow close to stock Renix injectors on a 39psi rail and seem to match up fairly well so far. ST trims bounce from 70-85 and longterm is down to 118 ... So they appear to still flow more than a Renix needs. My 746's showed a ST of 86-90 and a LT of 124 on the same motor. Injectors are actually a fairly standardized item. But, my engine is a 97 with a 99 intake and an adapted HO throttle body. I've run various sensor mixes over the last year, currently running a GM 86-94 2.8L TPS (TH32), GM IAT (AC Delco 213-190), and a stock MAP sensor (Jeep used the same GM MAP sensor 87-95 on the 4.0). Even the later EV6 injectors will work with a connector swap (or an adapter). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

And for anyone wondering, I moved the metered orifice to the front of the valve cover, and plumbed it into the brake booster vacuum fitting on the intake manifold. Then used a 5/8" brass garden hose fitting inserted from inside the rubber intake elbow, and hose clamped the breather line to it, the pass through hole is undersized and I used some sealer as well. The fitting is fully captured now. Then ran the line to the rear of the valve cover. Plumbed the brake booster into the old metered orifice fitting on the intake, reducing the hose length by more than half. The other was the FPR line, two new vacuum hose elbows and plumbed it to the vacuum fitting to the left of the old booster fitting eliminating a vacuum caps over unused ports. Then I just plugged the old FPR port. Cleans it up a fair bit I think. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Had me one of them there productive days today .... Started with swapping out the injectors, one of my Volvo 746's stopped working, so I swapped in the original injectors from my new motor (97 TJ) should get me by until I can replace the 746. Then that turned into rerouting the CCV system, redoing a few vacuum lines and generally tidying things a bit. Used 3/8" and 3/16" brake lines for the plumbing. Wired my relays for the fan and fog/DRL's in a bit better for now, I need to find a single pin connector or just splice right into the orange black lead of the EGR solenoid plug. It makes a great engine running only circuit perfect for these two uses. And then ... Fix the hard shifting issues I've been having ... Turned out my slave was bypassing, I had a good spare so a swapand bleed seems to have sorted it out. And then ... Installed the Boostwerks transfer case shift linkage and added another brace to the "medium sized console". I really need to get to making the rear storage pod. And I just need to rebuild the front driveshaft (old ujoints not liking being put back to use it seems). And then ... ... No and then, on with pictures. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I have HO (SAE) oil pressure, and water temp guages in my Renix cluster. The aux guages between the two eras are the same, mount the same and read the same. Good call on the GM sender idea, with that tidbit ... I may just go full after market for the four outside guages. Easy enough to plumb and mount. I already have a mech oil pressure Guage in the right switch panel as it is. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I love the old girl too. Sadly, once I attacked rusty bits under the original white paint she was several shades of grey, red and white-ish, looked really "classy". Got tired of the crusty look really quick ... Hit with some self etching primer around two summers ago. Honestly liked the color (box) hit the box with some clear to see what it would look like ... So once everything else is done .... I have a Color. But, I also found out about things like manufacturers color variances .... So she's green, just a couple different shades of it I guess. Thinking to add some subtle red accents as well, tried a few ideas with the plasti-dip stuff and found a pattern that worked well with the green/bronze. Not sure about the topper yet, but it keeps my junk in the back dry so it's there until the weather dries up at least. Just really want to button up all the little issues remaining before I worry about any real paint work. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I do remember the clear covers/Odo pin locations being an issue. But honestly can't remember if I tried swapping the speedo itself or just the clear covers ... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I only have the one Renix cluster (currently in my 88). I think I tried to swap one a while back ... Way back when I first started swapping guages about. Only issue I really saw was the fuel guages, totally different mounting between the two. If I can get the speedo to work, I may go the aftermarket (probably Equus since I already have some) and just run stock speedo/tach/fuel (unless I can find a reasonably priced and compatible fuel Guage). Hell, may eventually go full Guage set down the road. But that's a long way down the road. For now, I plan to work on the speedo conundrum and then the fuel Guage (I do have an HO XJ sender/pump assembly I can monkey with). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I've never had any luck with a Stant, both I tried made my 4.0 run at 160F. Went back to my old go to thermostat ... The old Motorad Failsafe (195F). Current one is doing it's fourth year (and now second motor), holds 198F in the dead of winter here, and now runs at a steady 203F since I blocked three grill vents for the cold snaps since I was getting slower warmup times this winter. Probably a sign I need to do the pump (pull and inspect/replace and thermostat again this spring. Summer Temps were the same range (but I didn't have an REM to get a more accurate value). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Ok, so a couple hours of scouring nets this little tidbit .... The 2 wire, mechanical adapted 97 /92 VSS ... IS NOT ... A critical need to make this work. The three wire fully integrated VSS will work just as well. They both produce the same 8 pulses per second signal. Just one has a ground signal, the other (3 wire) works more like a traditional sensor (power, ground, signal out). Only the 97+ CCD bus clusters supply the signal to the speedometer directly from the ECU. The 96 and earlier, splice off to the speedo just before the ECU. So although the circuit does terminate at the ECU, it is not required the for speedometer to function and it has it's own separate secondary slave circuit. Short version ... Run a dedicated circuit from the VSS (pick you flavour, 2 wire or 3 wire and spool accordingly), and supply the signal lead to the correct pin on the cluster and bingo, Bob's your uncle. Now gimme a bit to deal with finding the pinout diagrams again. I have the paper 89 FSM sets (4 books) so the Renix cluster and wiring is easy. Just need to find the pinout diagram for the HO clusters. Then match leads and generate a splicing/wiring plan. Way more info out there now it seems, being that more and more people are swapping HO era wiring harnesses and motors into YJ/XJ/MJ vehicles (most of the VSS info came from YJ based thread discussions). And search engines seem to be getting better at zeroing in .... Or it's just that my google-fu is strong today. So, expect be to pull duds all day next week. Luckily all this never happened on Facebook, so the info is still fairly easily-ish searched out if you get lucky with the right keywords. Based on this, a simple battery driven circuit can be created to test function with a power drill which will then identify as a Transmission from then on (hey, it's apparently the latest thing) not sure how the VSS will feel about it, but sometimes ya just gotta quash a few feelings. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

That's the same one I used, actually downloaded the video at the time. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I'll see if I can find the info again, wife's giving me "the eye" so not tonight. What I found made me pretty positive it was doable, but needed a 91/92 mechanical adapted VSS to do it. From what I remember that was the critical part to the equation. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Doh! Just re-read the post and actually looked at the pictures ... Got caught up in 3 wires and a big harness picture. Anyway, on with reality again. Rear window defrost from the looks of it. Red plug, heavy Guage power lead in. Color traces match the circuit diagram. The red plug is definitely the rear defrost. And it looks like a switch connector. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

That's where the difference is, the 91/92 ECU's still need/use speed sensor input, but the speedo reads the signal in the the same way as the ECU does. To make it simple imagine the signal wire as a 'T' one side goes to speedo, other goes to ECU (yeah, that's seriously simplified as you found out) . The later 93+ routes from the VSS, directly to the ECU, then the signal is translated to one the speedo can generate a reading from. From memory, it was all to do with a waveform change in the ECU that coincided with the newer 3 wire all in one VSS. Same idea as a Renix vs HO CPS when you get down to it. Now imagine if he ECU was translating the HO signal back into Renix speak and that's the general idea of what's going on. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I second you tube, there are lot of walk throughs, and once you have the case opened it's really a fairly simple beast. Go and get a set of Duckbill pliers (transmission snap ring pliers) they are like a set of pliers that work backwards. IMO they are a must. 1 1/8" deep socket, and a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey RTV. That and some patience, a 10mm 12pt, and a 15mm socket should be about all you really need. I did the SYE on my XJ on my front deck in the summer over a few cold ones. Hardest part about it was getting started, then cracking the case open. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah, from what I found they send a straight signal, whereas the later 93+ put out a signal the PCM interprets, and then sends out the same signal pattern as the earlier sensor does. This is all going off memory but from what I was finding it was a doable thing. Problem with finding information is piecing together all the little bits ... Seems only you and me are interested in doing this ... Being that speedo cables are still readily available, we're likely on our own on it. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Been busy a while, but with regards to the HO speedo/VSS ... 91/92 used a standalone sensor, which mated to the same mechanical drive as the earlier XJ/YJ/MJ's ... After 93 ... It then routes through the PCM and then gets sent to the speedo. This is what I found in my earlier research on the subject ... While working to eliminate my Speedo cable and run a more common HO cluster. Just have to get around to mapping the 88 cluster pinout and the HO pinout yet (this was back when I lost my job last year so it all got shelved). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

What color are the wires in it ... Looks like a connector for one of the left panel switches. Either rear cab light, or fog lights. IIRC green/black (x2) tracer with a black is fogs, and cab lights were pink with black trace (x2) and a ground. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk