Egm89

Double post*

It looks like the transmision control connector, Is ur truck a stick or autm? If it is a stick u can let it loose, not aure about the auto.

Thanks for the info on the connector! Going to buy some to change em. And yes, it a stick shift; but I'm guessing the my starting problem would be the cps, because I did pull some of the vaccum lines that go behind the head... As soon as I get home I'm going to try to test that cps.

Well yes to me too, any way to change it? Dive into a jy? Btw truck its a stick. Thanks man! As soon as I get off from work, going to check that, btw it is a stick; forgot to say that.

Hello guys! Have little problem here, hopefully you guys can help me to sort it out. Well it turns out that I had some free time yeastearday and decided to do the cruiser renix tips; everything from 1-4, couldntbdo 5 because I don't have much of knowledge using a voltmeter (I do have one). Well I thought I did a good job cleaning and adding grounds where it needed, but it seems that I did not haha. Now my truck doesnt whant to start anymore. It just cranks but no turning on. I think I have an idead were I messed up, even though not my fault here; check this out. That connector seems faulty in my opinion, what do u guys think? Btw. 87 swb 4.0 2wd, it was working "fine" before, well a little rich (10 mpg rich haha), pretty much stock besides a set of 746 injector and 30" tires.

Man those things are bright! I have been looking at those as well. That may have sold me on em WOW! All I'm gonna say. But are those legal? Bcs thats too bright omg, if they are def getting a pair.

Looking for a camper shell for my 87 swb. 91911 its the area code, I prefer the fiber glass one.

Chill out Doc, fhey just trying to help.

Depends on the injectors you used. What are they? What are their specs? Sorry to hijack, but what about the yellow bosch injectors? For an 87 4.0 5spd? Do i still need to change the regulators?

I think it won't bcs of the speedocable, but let me do some research.

Hello as the tirtle says looking for a full cluster for an 87 i6, shipped to 91911 thanks very much!

Well from under the hood I can't hear anything bad, sounds pretty normal, but from inside the cab, like around the pedals area, it sound like a "hizz", that only dissapears when I step on the brake, and I can ever hear it dimishing as I step on brakes harder. The truck stil stops and everything, but Imma go check the valve and the groomet. And if its not that, time to upgraxe to 95-96xj brake booster right?Actually 99 to 2004 WJ booster/master swap has more advantages.Is it still bolt on? Or I have to adapt it? Easier than the 95 to 96 and more readily available. As in everything, you are probably correct, following ur advice. Thanks cruiser!

Well from under the hood I can't hear anything bad, sounds pretty normal, but from inside the cab, like around the pedals area, it sound like a "hizz", that only dissapears when I step on the brake, and I can ever hear it dimishing as I step on brakes harder. The truck stil stops and everything, but Imma go check the valve and the groomet. And if its not that, time to upgraxe to 95-96xj brake booster right? Actually 99 to 2004 WJ booster/master swap has more advantages. Is it still bolt on? Or I have to adapt it?

Well from under the hood I can't hear anything bad, sounds pretty normal, but from inside the cab, like around the pedals area, it sound like a "hizz", that only dissapears when I step on the brake, and I can ever hear it dimishing as I step on brakes harder. The truck stil stops and everything, but Imma go check the valve and the groomet. And if its not that, time to upgraxe to 95-96xj brake booster right?

1987 4.0 swb 5spd 2wd Helo fellas! I got a question regarding my brakes, they making like a "hizz" sound from inside the cab when the brake its depressed, sort of like a vacuum leak would sound. But when I press on the brake, the "hizz" sounds, dissapear. here's a video of it, it starts with the hissing, and when I press on the brake the iddle lowers a bit too (I have dummy lights, so not sure on the rpms).

It change alot from the 1986 to an 1987 and on comanches, In order for you to make the engine swap, you need to "massage" the firewall, and the radiator brackets needs to change. And theres some more think you got to change, including motor mounts if I can recall correctly. Theres some post in the DIY section about this, check em out.

I've seen some dakotas and rangers seats swap, I think it depends on ur ability to fabricate the brackes. The ranger ones look good, it was the 60/40 bench type.

Sounds like you did a lot of work with the sand paper and a whole lot of time in the prep. So you purchased a spray gun to use with your air compressor. Purchased a 1 gallon can of HVLP primer and applied it with the spray gun. Then finished the job with Rustoleum spray cans? Really do have to ask how much would a couple of gallons of automotive paint cost compared to the $110 spent on Rustoleum spray cans? Especially since you purchased the spray gun. Well, lets see. My compressor (29 Gal 2Hp - 6SCFM@40psi) can't keep up for long with an HVLP gun to apply paint. It struggled with the primer, but at least the primer was being sanded back. I also don't own a good HVLP Spray gun, so the cost difference? Compressor (used) - $500. Dryer (used) - $400-700. Good HVLP Gun - $200-well over 500. Quality automotive paint (at least 1 gal) $200+. Then let's throw in clear, thinners, sealer, etc... So yea, $110 in cans is a bargain. At least compared to doing it properly, which is the only way I would bother doing it when/if I ever get around to it. Also, I took the time to primer because I had to in many spots, it was down to bare metal. I used a filler primer (Self etch on bare metal first) so I could sand it back and try to smooth out the difference in thickness between painted and non painted. I didn't seal it, nor did I bother to do any of the much needed body work (dents here and there). For what it's worth, people think my truck actually looks good. It doesn't look like an obvious rattle can job, which is what I was going for. Yes, looking at your picture, it doesn't look like a spray can job to me. Bed does look very presentable. My dad was a painter by trade, he always told me the key to any good paint job was the prep put into the job before the paint went on. The cost of good equipment to do a proper paint job on a car or truck is why I had Macco do the paint job on the truck. $795 for labor and materials was way less than a proper DIY would cost me. Besides, they were a block away from my office. This Macco shop had a very good reputation. In fact they were the only Macco shop to survive the 2008 Great Recession. All the rest went under. Living in San Diego means Tijuana (and much lower labor rates) is a viable, cheap alternative. One of the other engineers I work with too his older Passat to TJ for a $600 paint job. That car still looks decent, even up close, after 2 years. The paint crew put time into proper prep work. When I repaint my VW TDI, it is going to cost me $3K or so here in San Diego (some estimates were over $6K) with just normal parking lot dings and typical VW factory clear coat pealing to fix. And that is not even with top quality automotive paint. Rather a second tier paint supplier (Matrox?). I just figured out what a "BC pin stripe" is. I tend to forget that most guys here really use their trucks off road and bashing the truck is just part of the adventure. So the "bed liner" and brushed on paint makes some sense for that use/abuse. 340 dlls. Paint job in "TJ", gotta love those cheap labor rates. Btw still looks good after 2 years.

Volvos for renix, neon or mustangs for HO I think. And did u send them back?

No, thank you Cruiser!!!

Try closing the "[ ]" at the end, should look like something like this ...URL]

Well I didint change anything besides the injectors, and its working pretty well.

The Volvo injector work better on renix engines, the Ford on HO. Well at least thats what I have read. Btw I'm running volvo on my 87, and it works wonders.

I don't think they have em for the 2.5, but its that hard to make thoe, just replace one by one. Well at least thats what I did.