deziped1

89 MJ w auto on column 4L. Pulled steering column out to replace worn out bearing and the large green plastic cup the bearing snaps into. The inside firewall cover plate on column shaft serves as the retainer of the plastic piece holding the bearing by way of 3 screws. The plastic piece is aprox 2" deep and 1 7/8" OS diam. Bearing OS diam approx. 1 11/16. I can't find these parts on line. Maybe they are used only on the automatic with column shift. Seems ever body sells the small clip on retainer & bearing kits. Any one have a clue where to buy the ones I need? The plastic part is marked CAV 2 followed by 7847825.

Repaired the wallowed out OEM track bar frame bracket with a flip-it insert from goferit. Simple and easy to do. Really tightened up the sloppy front end on the MJ' Now on curves and road dips the wheels and body don't go in opposite directions. Tomorrow I'll pull out the steering column and order up parts to replace lower bearing and other worn out stuff. http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm

Some later 80"s chevy columns will work. He doesn't need shift indicator on column as most 88 on had it in the guage cluster, oh, unless he wants the older style. Had similar problem. 1st time spring had broke off about 1/4inch so column was sloppy in making the shift (didn't need to pull it back to make shift) .Pull it straight down and release in what ever gear you wanted. New spring cured it. 2nd time the shift selector lever inner tip wore out and broke off just enough to where it would not make sufficient contact with spring to put pressure on lever. Shifted just like first incident. Pick & pull JY replacement selector cured that one. Hornbrod is correct, use a small hook on a stiff piece of wire, or bend your good hook set at a 90% angel and it will go in to retrieve the spring. You don't have to dis-assemble the column to get to it some times, just pull the shift lever out and be prepared to spend some time accomplishing the extraction. Installation is more fun. Lots of giggle, twist & turning, pushing, cursing if needed, but it will make the turn and slide in. Good luck.

Auto my preference. I use either tranny for identical situations and have not experienced any significant inconvenience to get the job done. But, in town or the highway its auto all the way based on convenience/less effort.

Only real advantage of the in cab air inlet is it's boon for frequent farters by adding a little methane to the fuel mixture. and who ever is riding shotgun appreciates the quicker scavenging of the odor it leaves. But, it sure would make it nice on those cold morning when a shot of starter fluid is needed to get engine fired up and can be accomplished without leaving the cab. Side note: wear gas mask while dispensing S fluid or other fuel enhancer.

Engine hiccups are not usually related to engine dying problems, I think you got a short, bad ground, or vacuum leak somewhere.

Had similar problem it was a bad vac connection at fuel valve pressure relief/return line. I think it was letting fuel go through the line back to the tank and reducing fuel pressure. Any way just pulling the vac line off and pushing it back on cured the problem. ..

Vac line from MAP to back of throttle body (TB) leaking maybe. Is it connected to TB or maybe sucking air at MAP end.

Started wheeling on logging roads at 13 in one of the old WW II surplus RH drive dump trucks with like 5 to 6 foot tall wheels. Used wood block to get up to ladder to crawl in. 65 years later I have to crawl , well nearly, into my MJ, but I still hit the back roads (with more caution) when the bug hits me.

I never use it. Dump it.

Have you back probed the TCU to verify the 3 shift solenoids are good. Several times in past how to do this has been posted on here. try search for transmission shift solenoid OHM check. Under hard (full) throttle the 1st to 2nd shift occurs around 4500 - 4800 RPM. If the 1st to 2nd solenoid is failing it won't shift to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd gear won't happen either if that solenoid is shot. If last one is shot it won't lock up the T converter either. All of those can be tested through the TCM without removal of tranny pan. I'd borrow a known good TCU and try it. It only takes a couple minutes (plug & play)

Yup, that would fix it up.

over flowing her

Hooked up a 2050# dump trailer to it and loaded the trailer with 2 1/2 tons of concrete blocks. It was anemic in low gear and would barely move, and it wasn't slipping on cow pies, across the pasture, In 4 low it would move and get enough momentum to shift to 2nd but kick right back down to 1st gear. In all that was about 11100#. Hooked up the Dodge 3500 to it and vvrrroooommmmmm. I guess the MJ is destined to do the grocery & garbage runs from here on out.

Hornbrod -- There is nothing wrong with shift indicator. The problem is that the end of the gear selector lever is broken off (1/4" inch of it) where it slips into the upper end of the rod going down the column. It's a Chevy steering column in these MJ's and I think like 75 to 90+ will work. I pulled one this AM out of a 93 that worked but it was not shaped (& black - mines chrome) any where near like the MJ's. I'll snatch one out of a Beretta next time I.am in Eugene. I'm just using a screw driver in there now, but, it works. I recently tossed (couldn't find anyone needing one) in JY a column shift I pulled from an 86 V6 with 904 tranny that had the external gear position indicator, now I wished I had kept it. S--- happens.

My 89 MJ gear selector snapped off at internal end in column. Will a 96 XJ shift selector handle work as a replacement? Got to make a JY search other wise.

Years ago it was used as a rust inhibitor and as a sound deadener if the buyer wanted it. Maybe it still is.

Alexia, if looking for black MJ interior check out Portland OR craigs list parts for Jeep Comanche.. Someone is selling in good condition.

So I guess your saying the problem shows up when you step on the brakes.. That would sure slow your RPM's, but, to the point of stalling! Maybe your brakes are applying and not releasing immediately. Maybe its a short in your electrical system being caused by the brake light switch. If the brake are contributing to the problem I would start looking there.

Had very similar problem past week. Start & run for a few seconds when it felt like it. Sometimes start & run fine all day but die when it felt like it, hot or cold. Started at CPS and worked backwards through fuel pump ballast, spark, injectors, had elect & fuel at all points. Turn ignition on hear fuel pump run. As long as ignition is held in start position the starter will keep it actually running at 1000 RPM & up until it starts sucking air and dies like from fuel starvation. As a last resort I pulled fuel pump relay and swapped with the one next to it. Truck started fine all day today and even runs smoother. Turns out the relay has an internal problem and only was working intermittently at its discretion. I assume it was in a fluttering contact mode for some reason. Probably is the reason it was having hiccups now and then do fuel cut off at all speeds. All appears to be well now.

There are 7 diff Willys on the particular site I mentioned above, if you like them. Check the short wagon out..

I guess its not going to post. I can't even pull up pics out of my files to post on here.. System doesn't work for me. \ Anyway the Willys is on the Roseburg Oregon Craigs list under willys in Auto/Trucks./ $1200.

It runs!!!

It should start and run now you say?

I send pics from Photo Bucket to every site but, CC won't load em. No matter how I try all I get is a blue field.