deziped1

I think the purpose of notch in seat was to provide more space for forward movement of the seat. The small shift console, when my seat is fully forward, protrudes about 3 - 3 1/2" into the notch.

In the wheel listing hornbrod provided offset is shown as a letter, L, H/M etc.. Can someone decifer those to an equivlent inch measurement. I'm hoping I can cut down on JY snooping time. Obviously I'm not to familiar with wheel specs so clarification appreciated.

Nice 88 w low miles. https://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/5975626053.html

How about worn out/broken motor mount, or mounts. Engine flopping around side to side causes a lot of noise. Raise hood rev engine and see if engine is rolling to side.

Put new hubs w/bearings, calipers and pads on the front today. Tomorrow will pick up 4 shocks to smooth out the ride a little.

nd then tighten to spec, which isn't much in aluminum. hope this helps That's all that's left of a paragraph. Who knows where the hell it went!

Using the 231 gate works fairly good. If it bangs up against the end of gate when trying to return to 2wd grind it down a 1/4", or what ever needed, to increase throw distance. Going the other way if full time is not going far enough to engage grind the tab down (dremel) some. In short I ground down both ends of gate slot and the FT stop to make it work. Drove it for several years that way with no problems. But fell on to 242 components so changed to that when I was switching some other parts. It works a little smoother with 242 setup of course.

No mention of it being a running truck: http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/5415946126.html

Thanks you all for the info. I'll get this taken care of with the newer oil filter adapter off a 91 +.

Will this filter (L14670) for an 91 MJ work on an 89 MJ? Local retailers in my town don't carry the Purolator (believe it was L14619 ?) that fit the Renix engine, obviously do to it's age.

Everybody should have one of these in their front yard: http://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/5157075477.html

Just something to look at as it can cause weird problems: Measure your wheel base center rear axle to center front axle on both sides. At some time my MJ was hit in the front causing a 1 1/8" shortness on the pass side. Have never figured out where the shrinkage occurred at on the body/chassis. But it caused pass tire to rub on rear fender in turns and drove very sloppily. It was non-correctable with shims, so, I bought lower adj. CA's and forced the axle forward (with a come-along) to eliminate the wheel base 1 1/8" that was missing. Pulled out shims on both sides and run at 8.1 + caster (no lift). All is well.

That is a nice truck. Your effort is obivious in results.

New pic of MJ after tinkering with it today <a href="" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt=" photo DSCN0224_zpsg3hisgwm.jpg"/></a>

I think Pete is right on his assumption. My A pillar leaked past the secondary seal meant to stop the rain leak even when parked. It then ran down the front of the door jamb under the door sill and then back a few inches and dumped on the foot well. But I found accidently that the wind coming up inside the secondary seal forced the water through more easily as my speed increased. Stuck a couple of the kids mittens at the lower edge of seal and shut the door on them.Water flow decreased. Didn't notice if noise level decreased as the side vents leak so much noise through it probably wouldn't have made any diff.

Nice looking XJ/MJ http://portland.craigslist.org/nco/cto/5035473227.html

Anyone installed a 5.9 eng, at trans, trf case in an MJ. Yes anything can be done even if it doesn't make common sense. I have access to a complete 98 GC Lmtd with a 20k mile crate eng. Runs excellent and is a power house and cheap.. Just one of those what if ideas since the components are available and I have a lot of time to get it done. Damn, then I'd have an all wheel drive all the time MJ.

Very nice truck. Clean machine.

Now someone gets to clean all that grit out of the cylinders. I guess one could attach a battery and starter and hone the cyl walls with it.LOL

Nice, like the fit & look. Cost is? Not to expensive might buy for one of these. Edited: Got the price. OUCH!

My Olympic edition tail lights had no Olympic markings/logo. Were just the standard light.

Problem solved by modification.

this what the piece looks like, anyone have a good one:

No problem getting the bearing. What I need is the green plastic known as (depending on whom your talking to) adapter/bearing cup/retainer. The Chrysler Part #83502561 according to Chrysler dealer is obsolete and they cannot order it. This part is held in column by screws and not a wire clip.