terrawombat

Looking at the pictures of the damage and the mode of failure on the end of the shaft, I'm inclined to think the hub bearing may have been the initial root cause of the failure.

Thank ya. It was the first time I've tried to tackle anything like this and there are a few things I definitely would have done differently now that I've been through it once. The driver side mount wasn't too bad since it kind of WAS supposed to be there. The bottom portion that hugs the frame rail is from a ZJ. The top portion that you can barely see in the picture is from an XJ. I cut and hacked up both and fused them together with sparks and molten metal so that the end result was a motor mount that bolted in to most of the factory locations. I still needed to drill two holes through to catch two factory locations on the ZJ mount that the XJ/MJ frame doesn't account for. Unfortunately, I decided to move the whole engine assembly forward about 3/8", which required me to grind off the factory "tabs" that go out to the mount on the motor and weld in my own custom ones. The passenger side is completely custom job. The ZJ and MJ/XJ mount didn't even come close to where I needed to be. The passenger ZJ mount is cast steel opposed to its driver side counter-part - which was just bent up sheet metal spot welded together - so cutting and hacking that up wasn't really an option. The MJ/XJ passenger mount sits WAY further back than where it needed to be so I decided to just go completely custom. Very time consuming, but fun and rewarding at the same time. As you can see, I'm not a very pretty welder. I know the basics and know how to make a solid, structural weld, but I'm still not at the point where I'm consistent enough with my zig-zags to get the bead coming out pretty. I have my moments here and there, but for the most part, I need to take a flapper disc to the welds to clean them up.

SJ = 1963-1992 Jeep Wagoneer/Cherokee/Grand Wagoneer/Gladiator/J-Truck/M-715/724/725/726/62-17(Military) XJ = 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee MJ = 1986-1992 Jeep Comanche YJ = 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler TJ = 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler(Jeep TJ in Canadia) JK = 2007- Jeep Wrangler ZJ = 1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ = 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK = 2005-2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 = 2010+ Jeep Grand Cherokee KJ = 2002-2007 Jeep Liberty(Cherokee for export markets) KK = 2008-2012 Jeep Liberty(Cherokee for export markets) XK = 2005-2010 Jeep Commander MK72 = 2007- Jeep Patriot MK49 = 2007- Jeep Compass C101 = '67-'71 Jeepster Commando ( Commando with 101" wheelbase?) C104 = '72 & '73 Jeep (no ster ) Commando ( 104" wheel base ) FC150 - light duty CJ based Forward Control pick-up FC170 - heavier duty Forward COntrol pick-up. DJ = Dispatch/Postal jeep CJ - 1945 (rare CJ2-no "A") -1986 Utility Jeep ;)

Jim is the source. He's older than any newspaper, anyway.

This information is 100% accurate and is NOT to be disputed.

Having a tough time with this. Bought myself this special tool in hopes it would help me out: http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-87900-Wi ... 258&sr=8-1 It kind of worked on my '88MJ, but I wound up cracking the glass in two spots so I guess it's toast. I can tell that it is not the original windshield and there is quite a bit of urethane gobbed on all around, especially in the corners, which is where I seem to be having the most trouble. I'm able to get the "knife" just under the windshield, but I am not really able to get it in at a 90 degree angle because I would then hit the plastic clips that hold the windshield trim on, which also seem to be laying in a pool of urethane and are not removable. So, anyone got any tips? After I get the windshield out of the MJ, it's on to the the '99XJ donor, which seems to be even more of a PITA because there is a rubber seal that goes all the way around that I cannot figure out how to remove for the life of me.

Drivers side mount is just about finished. Need to clean up the welds/slag, weld on a nut for one of the mounting bolts that goes through the frame, and sandblast it for paint. Passenger side mount is nearly finished - I have the "tabs" fabbed and welded now I just need some additional bracing and need to drill through the upper part of the frame and tie the mount in better. I was able to lower the engine down off of the hoist for the first time - not a big accomplishment, but it felt good to have the engine rest in there on its own :D

Just drop a V8 in red and then it'll sit lower than blue.

I have one on my '88 Pioneer and it doesn't sit flush with the cab like you mentioned - it sticks out some. This is the only picture I have of it:

Although the plastic connectors (at least the black and white ones, don't think this applies to the blue) are slightly different shapes and not interchangeable between years, the metals pins they used on the ends of the wires are. I upgraded my '88MJ with a clock out of a '92XJ Briarwood. I carefully removed the pins from the connectors on both clocks and then installed the black connector to my '92XJ clock so then it became plug and play.

In the event that he doesn't ever get around to it, you should just do it for him. I'm sure Rob has already PM'ed you asking for the VIN :D

Without a doubt. I particularly enjoy the confidence of knowing that my hydraulic line is now held with threads and not some rinky-dink adapter that relies on a clip and a small ridge to hold a pressurized line together :D

Although I have no qualms with the customer service that was provided to me by Advanced Adapters, I do think that their prices were a little steep on the 60" of stainless steel braided hose. I was able to get the same length (60") of SS braided hose with the same fittings (one 90 degree adapter and one straight) for roughly half of what Advanced Adapter was asking. I posted a link to each of the products I used in the 3rd post of this thread. Like many other Jeeper's on this board, I am on a strict budget so if I can save some coin somewhere, I'm gonna go that route :D

Yea, if you can't find a manufacturer on the front panel somewhere, good chance it's some cheap Walmart off-brand of something. My limited search of VR3 head units didn't come up with anything promising. I would see if leaving your iPhone plugged in for a while still charges the battery, even though the little lightning bolt icon didn't show up. The fact it made the charging sound indicates that something is happening through USB. Try hooking it up through USB and manually playing a song on the iPhone...see if it comes through your truck speakers.

You may be over-engineering this. It looks like your head unit has a USB connection on it. More than likely, you can just run an iPod/iPhone cable from that to your iPhone. That will at least charge the phone and (if your head unit supports it) allow you to listen to music from your iPhone on your truck stereo. Depending on the make and model of that head unit, you may also be able to have simple forward, reverse, stop, and pause functions for your iPhone through the head unit. I can't remember for sure but when my friend had it in his Audi (as a temp till the factory Bose came in) I think he tried that.. but not sure.. i know I can plug in a flash drive and record voice notes.. guess i will play with it later after i get off work. At the very LEAST, that USB port should supply the 5VDC power to your iPhone to charge it, so installing an inverter for the purpose of phone charging would be redundant (although I'm aware that an inverter would have a lot of other uses). Give your iPhone USB cable a shot and see what happens. It could be that your head unit is one of the very early ones that provided a USB port and it actually has very limited functionality - depends on how old it is. I have a Dual head unit in my XJ that is now almost three years old that has Bluetooth, HD Radio, and iPod/iPhone control and I know there were head units before mine that had the same features so there's a chance for yours.... Do you know who makes your head unit?

Should have the rest of the passenger side motor mount finished and fabbed up tonight - minus the extra bracing I plan on doing. Should also get the rest of the drivers side mount measured and designed, but probably won't get to cut any plate and weld it in until later in the week. I'll get some pictures up since I know you guys don't like looking at all these words :D

Put about 500 miles on her this weekend - no leaks and solid clutch pedal the whole time. Transmission actually shifts much smoother than it did before. I'd highly recommend taking the $70 plunge and fixing your Jeep before it leaves you stranded far from home!

Any more details on the truck? What trim package is it? Long bed or short bed? 2x4 or 4x4? Auto or manual? Pics?

You may be over-engineering this. It looks like your head unit has a USB connection on it. More than likely, you can just run an iPod/iPhone cable from that to your iPhone. That will at least charge the phone and (if your head unit supports it) allow you to listen to music from your iPhone on your truck stereo. Depending on the make and model of that head unit, you may also be able to have simple forward, reverse, stop, and pause functions for your iPhone through the head unit.

I'll see if I can find the make and model number of the head unit I got for my '92MJ. It's basically a Plain Jane CD player, BUT, it also has a USB & Aux front panel connection AND can connect to and control an iPod. Since all of my music is played through my iPhone - whether it be songs from my music library or Pandora - I could care less about all of the other features. I have an HD Radio in my XJ, but since I currently live between two major cities (NYC and Philly), my HD reception is pretty spotty and it's incredibly annoying when the HD signal goes in and out. Anyway, for the head unit in my MJ, I got it brand new from Best Buy for less than $80, but it was on sale. Pretty sure it's a JVC...I'll update with the model number if I can find it. This isn't quite it, but it's damn close: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JVC+-+50W+x ... Id=1685043

Nah, looks like it had a low-speed fall. There is no rash on that side of the bike that I can see. Could have been while the bike was being stored, too. I've heard of all kinds of stories about bikes being damaged while in storage - people drop things on them, use them as a step stool and they fall over or try to move them out of the way and they topple. In fact, the only damage on my Z1000 is from when I had it stowed away in my shop during the winter. I went to bring it out for the spring/summer and I managed to have it topple over on top of me. It hurt, but at least my body took the brunt of the fall and the only thing that was damaged was the mirror and scratched the windscreen. My body healed - a dented or scratched gas tank, fairing, or rear set would not have healed. I think I did the right thing by breaking my bike's fall :D

Yes. The idea was to pull up a song on the jukebox, run out to your bike, race to a predetermined spot in town and get back to the cafe before the song ended. Hence why a lot of the "cafe" racers are basically stripped down versions of the bike with a more aggressive handlebar installed for more control. That bike that you got is an excellent starter bike and for $150, that's a damn steal if you can get the thing to run. Hopefully it just needs the carbs cleaned to get it running. Would also be very wise to carefully go over the brakes - new pads, new fluid in the master cylinder, and bleed the front brake. I've seen too many brake pads separate from the metal backing plate when the bike sits to long. If the brake pad comes off, it can wedge itself in funny where it locks the wheel. On a car, you can get away with pulling off to the side of the road, but on a bike, this failure is a bit more catastrophic, as you can imagine. My first bike was an '85 Yamaha Maxim X 700cc water cooler 4-cylinder. Awesome bike with plenty of power, but I got tired of messing with carbs every summer so I got me a fuel injected bike.

I would kill for that kind of mileage in my ZJ. But then I'd have to swap out the 5.9L for something a little more...practical

Yep. Another old man who can keep up with those youngsters!

He didn't have a full, unrestricted drivers license when he wrecked the truck so they restricted him from getting that for a set duration of time.