terrawombat

You probably don't care since I'm about a month late, but the amount of carbon buildup in your engine is not normal, even if a handful of folks on the JeepStroker forums say otherwise. It wasn't the cause of your bad lifter/cam, but could very well be the cause of your failed catalytic converter. The excessive carbon buildup (especially after only 12K miles) suggests you were initially running a very rich mixture. Once the carbon forms in your combustion chamber, it has a tendency to extinguish the flame front that would normally occur when the spark ignites the fuel/air mixture coming into the engine. This results in incomplete combustion, poor engine efficiency and excess air leaving your combustion chambers. Your O2 sensor is pretty dumb in the sense that it will see that excess oxygen and will tell the PCM to compensate by adding more fuel (you can see this is turning into a vicious cycle). Catalytic converters don't do so well when you throw excess fuel at them and may be the reason why yours failed at only 8k miles. What I've noticed with a lot of Jeep people who do stroker builds is that they put together an engine that flows more air than a stock 4.0L, therefore needing more fuel than a stock 4.0L, but they expect the PCM (designed for the air/fuel flows of a stock 4.0L) to compensate and everything will be fine. The engine may run and it may sound okay, but you really have no idea what's going on inside. I always recommend that if you're going to change the air/fuel flow characteristics of an engine (by stroking it, in this case), you need to have a wideband O2 sensor before the catalytic converter at the very least. It will go a long way in determining if you're running too rich or too lean. Now, when the guys at Jeep were tuning your ECU - how were they doing it? What did they do? I would guess that they pulled some fuel somewhere in the fuel map. What size injectors are you running? If you're anything over stock, you're mostly likely going to be running rich when you're idling.

Smaller rim = smaller tire = less $$. The rally rims were primarily found on base model XJs and MJs. Base model vehicles are generally made for consumers on a budget.

Yep - the AW4 is the auto transmission of the XJ line. I would trust the AW4 over any of the Chrysler transmissions in the ZJ every day of the week.

Hey, I recognize that photo... Wanna buy the set?

Yea, I was going to say...hasn't this already happened? Looks like this is a new, repeat issue.

Indeed. I believe there were a few 4.0L/AW4 drivetrain combos in some of the very early '93 ZJs. I'd probably pick one of those up if I could find one with low mileage and in decent shape. I love my ZJ, but it's such an f'ing gas hog :D

It will have the 44RE in it, then. It's a relatively common transmission that should be easily located at a salvage yard. Make sure it is from a ZJ so that the bellhousing has the starter motor on the right side of the trans (Dodge also used the 44RE, but they had the starter on the opposite side...this will interfere with the front driveshaft in the ZJ). As far as how easy it is to change - I did the 46RE in my '98ZJ by myself with only basic tools, jackstands, and a transmission jack I got at harbor freight for $40. It was pretty straight forward, but very time consuming because I had to do it all on my back in 15-25 degrees temps.

Once you've got the base layer of POR 15 on, you can pretty much put any topcoat over it that you want. I've had great experience with POR15's Chassis Coat, though. I started a trailer project with it - painted most of the trailer with POR 15 and only did a Chassis Coat topcoat on the tongue. It's been over three years since I've touched that and it has seen three NJ summers/winters and the Chassis Coat still looks good as new. The un-topcoated POR 15...not so good :D

What year and engine is in the ZJ? There were a handful of transmissions available to the ZJ lineup depending on the model year of the vehicle and the engine size. The transmissions were labeled in sequential order with the higher number being the stronger model. For example, in 1998 the 4.0L came with the 42RE, the 5.2L came with the 44RE, and the 5.9L came with the 46RE. The 'E' stands for electronic control. There were also hydraulically controlled transmissions in the earlier years, denoted with an 'RH' after the number. As far as reliability is concerned and which one is "better" and more desirable, that's a tough call...they're all Chrysler transmissions, which make them pretty undesirable to start with. I bought my 5.9L ZJ with a bad transmission at 160K and I swapped in another that had roughly 70K miles on it and it still doesn't feel quite right. I've ridden in numerous 4.0L ZJs and each one seemed to have somewhat rough and abrupt shifts. I've kind of just chalked it up to being that's how these transmissions just are...

Looks like it has a lot of desirable parts on it. The VIN you provided, however, is not correct.

It somewhat depends on the tools that you own. If I had a lift and a transmission jack, I would say that pulling the trans is easier. If I didn't have a lift, but had an engine hoist, I would say pulling the engine is easier. Any way to test the "good" transmission with the "bad" engine?

I remember that XJ with the Charger steelies...I think it was in the running for a rig of the month kind of deal. First time I've seen the Charger steelies, but I love them.

I agree better than the steelies, but those steelies don't look bad when painted with fresh silver. And I tell you this, the stock steelies look a helluva lot better than those damm soft 8s /cragars everyone is always putting on. IMO those look about 1000x times worse than a stock steel silver wheel. No kidding. I saw a lifted XJ SE with the base steel rims that came on those. Probably had 31's or 32's on it and I thought that combo looked great...very utilitarian.

Nice work with the rims. I've always liked the newer style XJ's with the Ecco rims...well any stock alloy rim that they came with make them look so much better than the cheap steelies.

Having a rad with filler neck is nice since it makes the system look factory and like it was done properly, however, it will be more expensive to get a brand new radiator with filler neck versus getting a brand new remotely mounted filler neck that is spliced into your upper rad hose. I completely eliminated my heater flow control valve and have yet to see any adverse effects from it. Someone said that without it, my heater core would always have full flow going to it (which I don't disagree with) and that it would affect my A/C during the summer (by making it not as cold). I have yet to experience that. Even on the 100+ degree days we have had my A/C has been pumping out nice, cold air.

Sorry fellas, but I am out - the cost of gas, plus the loss of $$ from my paycheck from the time I'd have to take off is too big of a hit. Have fun out there and turn some wrenches. I hope to be able to make the next one :D

It would make a great parts washer with a recirculating tank underneath, but the sink is a bit on the small side. Plus, I already have a 20 gallon parts washer from HF that I've had for about 5 years and works great.

I can rarely ever turn down the opportunity to score a new workbench, so when my Aunt told me her old school was getting rid of their lab benches in their science classroom, I couldn't pass it up. Solid oak construction, stainless steel sink, 120VAC outlets, lots of drawers, and plenty of storage space underneath. All of my workbenches have a unique purpose, so I'm going to have to figure out what this one will be. Oh, and free delivery via my Uncle...I'm going to have to get them a gift card somewhere.

Lol. I don't see any dents. No caved in roof. Price seems decent. Hope you can get 3700 out of it. Would give me a warm fuzzy feeling inside that my 01 with 185k on it is still worth something...

This one looks too easy for you. Guess you need a break every once in a while.

This question comes up quite often over on my 5.9L ZJ forums regarding the pros and cons of the Superchips flashes. For the most part, Superchips is okay for stock vehicles just looking for a little extra "umph." The issue with the Superchips is that it's a "canned" tune and it cannot be altered. You basically just pop the thing in your OBDII port and upload one of the tunes on the programmer. It should also save your factory tune so you can go back to that whenever you want. A lot of the 5.9L ZJ guys will say to just go straight to an SCT Tuner because you can create your own individual tunes and cater it for your vehicle and modifications. One thing you might want to look into is if you need to give Superchips the VIN or serial number on the PCM for the vehicle you plan on using their module with. I know that with the SCT programmer, they use your PCM's serial number to keep you from using it on all of your buddies Jeeps.

Yea - sorry Rob. I know how hard it is to try and plan an event when you've got people dithering back and forth. These days, I need to plan my schedule the week of. My GF doesn't get her work schedule for the week until Monday morning and she doesn't normally tell me until Tuesday or Wednesday - but if she has any days off on the weekend, then I always make it a point to get down to her place in Ocean City, MD to spend time with her/sit on the beach. Although I want to meet some of you loonies and get some wrenching in. Maybe we can plan a meet and greet at my shop so you all can help me finish my 5.9L MJ project. I need to get that thing rolling and running so it can come with me when I eventually make my move down south. :D

1/2" Although the quality of HF is often questioned (and with good reason), these little specialty tools get the job done just fine. I probably have had these for about 1.5 years and have used them a dozen times or so - still holding up fine. Annodized aluminum seems to be doing well. Only thing I wish they came with was a sturdy carrying case. I left them in the original plastic packaging they came in.

The first MJ that was handed down to me (from my grandfather) was an '86 with the 2.8L and auto trans. Sadly, I got in over my head with it and chose to take it to the junkyard. It needed a new engine and I didn't have the knowledge or tools to do that at the time. The first MJ I ever bought with my own money and was titled in my name would be my '92 that I have now. Still have it and will drive it until it dies...then replace whatever broke on it and drive it some more.

I take my dog everywhere so I'd expect nothing less from you. :) Good - that's one obstacle down. Just need to figure out if I can/want to do this 10 hour drive twice in a few short days :D