terrawombat

You should have kept that Laredo. You think it's difficult to find a Comanche? Try finding a Comanche Laredo - damn near impossible.

Bought a pressure washer with a Subaru engine on it a few years back. Seems to rattle and make more noise than any Briggs or Honda I've used, but you're right, it starts right up every time and I've never winterized the thing and I've been pretty lazy about maintenance.

I have no doubt you're right so I'm sure the interpretation of "parts catalog" is what's different between countries. When I see that, I expect an exploded diagram of each sub-system in the vehicle with a description of each part and an OEM part number for said part, which is not present anywhere in this book. They do have exploded diagrams and some system schematics that label each individual component, but they lack that one thing that would make it a true parts catalog - a part number.

I will never understand why vehicles built in China for China still have English labels all over the vehicle.

I don't think it has a parts catalog, but yes to everything else. This was definitely a Russian translation done to an existing Mazda service manual. I suspect it was translated from Japanese to Russian. I am in the process of taking hi-res scans of the pages and using an online program to do the translations. It's not perfect, but it's at least legible. Also picked this up: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-6-54-PLATE-DIESEL-2002-2007-ELECTRONIC-ACCELARATOR-THROTTLE-PEDAL-/130899607791?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160 Contains both the accelerator position sensor and idle switch I was missing.

What could Moscow possibly be sending me? Only the holy grail for this engine!

Practicality - or lack thereof. Cool vehicle for summertime cruising. Great vehicle for off-roading. Awful vehicle for towing, people hauling, interior security and long distance rides. Definitely has its niche, but I like my rides to be versatile. I have always had issues with my back since I was in high school and hitting a pothole in a YJ would send a sharp pain right up my spine. Those things ride awful.

I pass through the northern-most part of I95 in Delaware when I go up to NJ so I'll keep an eye out. There is a place on 896 where I actually saw my old '89 Jeep Wrangler up for sale...sold it to a guy in DE when I was living in NJ...hadn't seen the thing in 10+ years and it just randomly showed up for sale on the side of the road. He was actually asking the same price I sold it to him for. Thought about buying it back, but I had just gotten rid of my '91YJ and vowed never to get another again.

I've used this stuff with moderate success on intake and fuel tank only. Mainly only carbureted small engines (lawn mower, weed whacker, etc). Never noticed a difference on larger, fuel injected vehicles. I have never and will never run any additive in my oil except for the occasional quart of ATF.

I need to look into it some more. Some of the Mazda workshop manuals are unique in the sense they will go through and explain the operation of each system, rather than just telling you how to take it apart and put it back together.

I usually look the parts up at home so I can just tell them what part number I need. On the few occasions I forget, after 5 minutes of back and forth they usually give up and hand me the keyboard... p- So what vehicle do I put that under for warranty? m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- No, really. m- 1987 Jeep Comanche. p- That part is not for a Jeep Comanche. m- That is what it's going on, p- It won't fit. m- Trust me, it fits. p- "No vehicle given". I too always get the part number for what I want online then call ahead and have the part waiting on the counter so I don't have to deal too much with the parts drones. They have tunnel vision; everything's in black and white to them. For instance I went to my local Autozone for a new Duralast Gold battery. The 1997 and up XJs used the 34-DLG (Group 34) batteries; the 1996 and below used the 8-DLG (Group 58) batteries. They both have to same battery tray, and both fit the MJ with no problems. The group 34 battery is rated at 800 CCA (cold cranking Amps), the group 58 is rated at 610 CCA so that's a no-brainer. The drone didn't want to warranty the battery because his computer said so, so I had him look up the battery for a 97 XJ, then no problem. :shake: It's very unfortunate, but it's the world we currently live in. If Tab A doesn't fit in slot B like the instruction manual says, then it doesn't fit. No one is capable of thinking outside the box...that apparently takes too much effort and doesn't follow the "rules."

I do too, only I use it as my compressed air filter in my shop.

I thought the same. Seems like a very unsafe condition that could cause a runaway engine (ahem...toyota...ahem). There may be more to it than what I've figured out so far. I do know that the 5V ground circuit runs through the accelerator pedal (missing on my engine) and goes through the MAF (also missing). Still seems strange that if there is any disturbance to the accelerator pedal wiring, the throttle defaults open...

I paid zero dollars and cents for the truck. It was given to me.

Researched the accelerator pedal position sensor some more. The pedal that came with the Mazda Bongo has two sensors in it feeding the ECM a similar voltage. If the sensors differ in voltage by 0.9V or more, the ECM determines there is a fault and illuminates a MIL. I'm guessing that the pedal has two sensors so that if one fails, the other can keep on going. I also found that a MIL will illuminate if either sensor dips below 0.3V or goes above 4.7V. So, in theory, I should be able to feed the ECM a 0-5V signal on one of the senor signal wires to get the throttle to open and close.

Nope.

I think you may be right. After looking at the wiring diagrams for the accelerator pedal it looks as though the ECM is feeding it a voltage and there are two variable resistors in the accelerator pedal that are on two different outputs - both feeding a resistance back to the ECM.

A nice gentleman (Comrade) from Russia gave me a few pointers...as well as a couple of diagrams. Couple hours of Google Translate and... That was my first time firing it up. Keep in mind that I had already spent hours shooting in the dark and taking guesses on how this thing was wired so I had already had it fully primed. Also bought a little low pressure fuel transfer pump (you can see it mounted under the fuel tank). Don't think it's necessary, but don't think it will hurt either. You'll notice that as soon as the engine fired up, it took off like a bat out of hell. This is a drive-by-wire engine and I already verified that when the essential electronic accelerator pedal is missing, the intake butterfly valve goes to wide open so I had a very good inclination that the engine was going to peg high like it did and I had my right hand positioned to kill it as quick as possible. I'm going to rig up a pot to serve as the accelerator pedal until I can get my hands on one.

You would think...but they're not. They tend to get very similar mileage numbers to the 4.0L. So, you've got an underpowered engine that gets similar mileage to its bigger brother. It becomes a no-brainer.

Your parts book is wrong. 1986 and 1987 MJs received the 4x4 emblem on the bed. It was moved to the cab in 1988.

The 4x4 emblems are in the correct spot for the year.

Not sure of availability, but every Laredo MJ I have seen came with Turbines as those were top 'o the line and that's what the Laredo package was all about.

And the wrong rims. If this truck had power windows/locks, I'd be very interested. Not at his asking price, but still very interested...

Also, it's roughly the same size as the VW ALH and same material construction (cast iron block, aluminum head) so it should be about the same weight, I would think....at least in the ballpark. Also doesn't have a cast aluminum oil pan like the ALH...silly Germans.

Already have one VW ALH engine in my '02 Golf - wanted something different. Thanks for the heads up with the TDIClub guy - I may be giving him a shout if I can't get reasonable shipping rates on some of the other vendors I have found. This engine got imported with a crate of other JDM engines. You can't import the entire vehicle for safety reasons, but you can ship the thing over in pieces and there are currently no regulations in place for that. Couldn't tell you what the exact weight is, but I would put it somewhere between 550-600 lb (with manual transmission) just based on how my engine hoist reacted when yanking it off the truck.