terrawombat

0

Do girlfriends count? Free XJ > GF

Yea, I made a print a while back. Use it at your own discretion - it worked great on my '88 SWB SporTruck, but it was a little tight on my '88 LWB Pioneer. I probably get 2-3 PM every 3-4 months with people asking about the print - seeing if they can reproduce it for a profit. I have yet to see anyone offer it up for sale.

I'd give him $500... But he already turned that down

Yes - was in Central NJ around Fort Dix. Messaged the guy, but he never got back to me. Was gonna buy it and store it at my parents place 30 min away, but never panned out. Glad it went to someone on here!

Excellent, Jim. Please take lots of pictures of the setup - I've always been a fan of the SD22 engine. With the proper gearing it should be more than adequate for a DD MJ.

Very cool Jeeps - I have owned 2 and regret selling both, but they mostly just sat around. They have a lot of quirky electrical issues, but once you get past those they can be a very reliable DD. I was getting 14/18 for fuel mileage, but my foot was always on the floor. Wish I could have kept mine, but insurance costs were getting high on all of my automobiles so they were victims of my 2012 vehicle purge.

The heatsoak issues came about when Chryco retrofitted the exhaust system with two pre-cats directly under the intake manifold. This officially happened on the 2000 and 2001 Cherokee's, but I have seen a very late model 1999 that had it as well (but it could have been swapped in...not sure why you'd ever want to swap pre-cat's on). The pre-cats get nice and toasty and when you shut the vehicle down, the heat from them rises up and cooks the injectors. I had the heat shield on my '01 XJ for a while, but it didn't really help much and I yanked it when I did an injector swap. The only time the problem occurred was when the vehicle was driven, shut down and then restarted within 10-15 minutes. The engine would always start, it would just stumble for about 10-15 seconds and then would smooth right out.

I don't think I'd touch the 3-cylinder version. The bigger 4 cylinder Kubota v2203 is a common swap and that is very low on power. Here are a couple v2203 swap threads: http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/110855-jeep-cherokee-xj-v2203-kubota.html http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/94861-another-ford-ranger-kubota-v2203.html

They both look like they don't approve of the torque spec you're using on the main bearing caps.

That cat better be declawed :yes:

LoL @ the girls in bikinis and jeans posing in the pictures. Probably the store owner's daughter and her friend.

I'm sure they are a splendid group of guys that know what they're doing, but seesh, whoever is running that store needs to rethink their policies or they'll be boarding up the windows just like all of the other audio shops have done over the past 10 years (remember that high end audio store, Tweeter? LoL). Shipments once a week AND a 72% increase over online retailers? Rob, you're a good guy for sticking with the local yokel shop, but I think that place needs to get with the times or it'll be time to close up shop pretty soon.

Subscribing to this thread as I'm interested in changing up my shop heating. Currently have a wood stove and it works great, but a "set it and forget it" type of heating device would be most excellent and a great time-saver for my after-work jaunts to the shop.

Agreed. I look at W/M more as a solution in search of a problem. There are a handful of other things that should be done prior to even considering W/M. My response was aimed at addressing this:

There are a lot of folks over on the Cummins forums that will install water/meth systems on their heavily modified rigs, but you can also find them on some rigs that have very few modifications at all. The fellas that are towing with their Cummins trucks on a regular basis will usually look to a water/meth system to keep EGTs down when they've got 10K lbs behind them and they're going up steep grades. Just recently I towed a 4,600lb truck on a 2,200lb trailer with my '04 Ram 2500 Cummins. At 6,800lb I am well below the maximum towing capacity for my truck, but when I started going up some steep West Virginia roads I watched my EGT meter get into the 1100-1200F range...starting to get very close to the melting point of aluminum - granted, nothing is actually pure aluminum inside the engine, but the point is there is an inherent danger of making the exhaust combustion temperature TOO hot. Although I completely agree that water/meth systems are not a good solution for a daily driver, they are an easy add-on item for specialty applications. When people hear they don't even have to remove a single nut or bolt on the engine and can have an increase in engine power they get all warm and fuzzy inside - kind of why nitrous oxide took off in popularity (but that also had to do with the Fast and the Furious movie).

Water/methanol injection is commonly used on diesel engines for many of the same reasons it's used on gassers. Lowers EGTs and increases air charge density. I've heard lavish claims that it will increase fuel economy by up to 15% but have yet to see any real-world data to back that up. First time I saw one of these systems was at a tractor pull event. Every tractor had a massive water/meth system installed.

Ok, I'll buy that. Let's look at a better example: http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?18015-2001-Jeep-WJ-Cummins-B3.3t-Swap B3.3 in a lifted WJ. Seems to be okay in stock form, but if you're going over any hills you're going to want the extra power (or lower gearing, but the author never stated if he did anything with the gearing).

True - I'd be less concerned with the longevity of the B-series engine based on it's stellar reputation. It's an overbuilt engine to begin with and there are quite a few folks running some serious modifications on stock internals...and they have been doing so for several years and hundreds of thousands of miles. You're economy will likely take a hit if you're in the throttle too much. I agree that he'll likely need to gear down to achieve a balance between sustainable highway speeds and fuel economy. The 1998-2004 VW TDIs might be a good starting point for him to look at gearing as that engine has similar HP specs (90HP and 155ft-lbs) to the B3.3. My '02 VW TDI can do 80+MPH with no problems, although I suspect a lot of that has to do with the aerodynamics of the vehicle.

Turning up the fuel and boost on this engine shouldn't be too much of a problem as long as it's a similar setup to the 4BT (and I believe it is from what I've read).

I WAS going to swap that engine into my MJ, but I do not have the proper tooling to make it happen. The engine and transmission mounts would have to be complete custom jobs and all of my fabrication goodies are locked up in my shop 3 hours north of me. Instead, I'll be swapping it into a 1993 Mazda B2200 as the engine block between the gasser that came out of that truck and the block on my diesel are virtually identical. Also, the transmission from the Mazda truck bolts right up to the diesel engine so I've literally got a drop-in setup, which will just leave me with plumbing of fuel, coolant, P/S and A/C lines (and some wiring) - all completely do-able with my current shop setup. Another quick correction - the engine is actually a Mazda RF-CDT 2.0L. The MZR-CD is a designation given to this engine when they plopped it in the Mazda passenger vehicles (3, MPV and 6). The MZR-CD has more power and torque, but also comes with very not-fun features for an engine swap - such as a sentry key immobilizer. While the Mazda diesel engine I have is certainly an option to swap into an MJ/XJ, I don't think I would recommend it based on the effort versus fuel economy you'll get out of it. If you truly want max fuel economy out of a diesel swap, do a VW 1.9L TDi engine and you can likely get 45+MPG out of it.

Ok, I get that you're completely infatuated with the cost of goods, but you completely missed my point as well as the intent of the original post. Had you posted an ad of a beat to crap bed that had no chance of ever being returned to its former glory, I'd be on board, but you threw up an ad to a long bed that the rust belt nation would love to get their hands on and I'd be willing to bet there's a few out there who would pay close to the asking price.

Rust belters would be on that bed like a fly on doodie. Is it priced high? Maybe. Should the seller be ashamed? Absolutely not. I see a long bed with no rust and a lot of potential... The original intent of this thread was not to bash the anyone on price, but being the cheapskates that we all are, we love to boast about how we got our MJs for $13 and a jar of farts so I understand why the thread took that direction. The intent was to show a completely neglected, POS MJ that needs to be put out of its misery.

Huh? Why? Looks like a pretty solid longbed to me. Starting to grasp at straws now...

We a bunch of cheap bastards!