Comanche County

Thanks for the compliments and extra info. Those are good tips that will help someone.

Just keeps the rest of us nuts drooling over your truck.

I put a poly bushing kit on a 65 Mustang once,,,,turned it into the squeekiest car in Texas. Big Mistake!

Is the heater control valve on the heater core lines stuck closed? Check the vacuum connection to it. Also, is the temp gauge working correctly?

Just remove your air box, or just the air box lid, and attach the cone filter to your stock air hose. That's how I've got mine --- total cost - $0.00.

Might want to think about changing your O2 sensors before your next emissions test. Go with Wix oil filters also,,,and yes regular plugs, no platinum plugs because they'll foul in no time at all - in practically any engine. You'd have no brakes at all if you had cracked hard lines...a cracked hard line will fail under the brake system's hydraulic pressure. If you're running stock height or a small lift, I'd replace your soft lines with YJ brake lines. There just a few inches longer that stock MJ lines. They're easy to replace, then you just have to bleed the brakes afterward.

I doubt you'll find one. There may be someone on here with a set of old Street Comanche ground effects willing to sell to you.

My brothers went hog hunting and found this non-typical. It had been dead for a few days, coyotes had already tore it up. Our guess is a hunter shot him but couldn't recover the deer. Its even got a natural "Hole in the Horn".....Finders Keepers!

Thanks, I'll keep that it mind. But at my current rate of wheeling I'll probably never break \them. I think Rock Krawler's stuff has a lifetime warranty too.

I dish on them but Subs are cool, especially in cold weather areas.

I still hear that theme song in my head sometimes...and yes, I'm sane, I think.

Yeah, close enough. In GA right now, I'll be back on Monday.

It's time for the electrical gurus to chime in...they're enroute as we speak. The blast resistor is the white porcelain object on the drivers side inner fender. Look for cracks in it. t's fairly obvious.

This may be a shot in the dark, but check the ballast resistor under the hood on the driver's side inner fender.

I see that donor XJ came from one of my former Bat' brothers...it should bring you good luck. 8) Man, you have some mad Jeep skills. Where's the pics of your army of little dwarfs doing all this labor for you? :D

The buzzer is in the fuse box, that's probably what you hear like Jeepcomj said. I don't believe the ignition switch can make noise -- unless it's on fire.

Check the spline count on the output shaft of your transmission. An 88' may have 21 splines, your 97' T-case is 23 splines. I don't think it will work. Your best bet may be to get an XJ rear driveshaft and have it cut/extended to the right length after you get it all put together.

Here's a good read on the different ZJ suspensions...read down the page a bit for sway bar specs....Addco would be the way to go for a ZJ, one day if money allows I'll have one on my 5.9. The Addco bars may be a little too stiff for an MJ though. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/techarticl ... grade.html

This truck is what its all about, just absolutely beautiful. Nice pics too, an awesome truck framed in some of God's best settings....

My friend that is a thing of beauty you have there!! :drool: :drool: :drool: Sorry :oops: :hijack: Where did you source the discs? If I were to re-mount mine, I think I'd go with U-bolt eliminators with grade 8 or better hardware....here's some examples:

Yup, the key lock cylinder (commonly called an "ignition switch") actuates a long rod which runs down the column to the actual switch closer to the firewall.

Yep, it should gravity bleed just like he says then bleed it like brakes if necessary.

I searched long and hard for a stock OEM driveshaft from any vehicle that would work when I did my 8.8 swap...I don't think one exists. It could be out there though. Also you'll need the flange adapter that comes on the exploder driveshaft. Its a 1330 U-joint, your Manche has a 1310. I ended up having my MJ DS cut to length and used a 1330/1310 conversion joint for the flange. To do it right, get it cut to length (with a double cardon if you've got a SYE) and have the shop install a 1330 yoke on your DS...its stronger and you don't have to mess with a weaker conversion joint.

Mine was only pushing 20 psi or so until I had the head rebuilt....new valve stem seals and a new head gasket seem to have done the trick. Its got over 200K and pushes between 30-50 psi depending on the engine temp.

Partially clogged rad that flows, just not well enough?