Oizarod115

:rotfl2:

that same scout that donated the front end would have most likely had a 44 front in it pass side drop :cheers: that does look badass.

new parts again! got the front axle disco shimmed over (well, slid over and clipped) got my bomp-proof motor mounts and poly trans mount in yesterday... HOLY BEJESUS what a MISTAKE! the poly trans mount will rattle your teeth out! motor mounts are SWEET though, love the solid feel but I'm getting a new factory style trans mount tomorrow.

(I'm a smartass, sorry haha)

i love RE but... :ack:

i've been through 2 warranty red-tops, one that sizzled and foamed at me and another that just went dead about 6 months into life. newest one has been fine, i swore that the one that died had a parasitic load but it just turned out to be a $#!& battery :dunno: get the battery charged and test it.

in further news i have since replaced the blower motor and resistor, gotten the headliner and visors back in (an upholstery buddy redid them), replaced the worn out brakes in the pics above^^ and starting on the poly trans mount and beefffy motor mounts from rustys in about 10 minutes. oh an i broke the front e-brake cable mashing it to hard. :headpop: then found out it's a 24$ cable :rotfl2: big waste of a couple of choice words. :chillin:

you are traveling further than the spedometer thinks you are so your mileage will be slightly better than you think it is. I'm running 33s and stock drive gear and I'm going 60mph when the gauge reads 50 which is 20% off so multiply mileage on the odometer by 1.2 and divide by gallons to get closer to the actual mileage. 2.99 here in GA but grand opening and a little competition between stations i got 2.77 today at race-trac

i've got the hack-renix/ho swap too, my 97 TJ block has a port for knocksensor, i used HO cherokee fuel lines from the junkyard and compression fittings underneath the truck to keep the engine bay looking factory. TPS was the hardest part. dropping EGR will not effect your emissions test because the HO motor has different cam profile thats supposed to take care of the problem :dunno: my truck passed a smog tailpipe test with flying colors at nearly 0 emissions on all parts. check it all out here. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17821

every D.A. on the street either thinks its a dakota or an s10 anyways, not like it matters hah. :fs1:

I'm at 6.5" front and 5.5 or so rear, had a LOT of rake factory. tires are 33x10.50 km2 bfgs and i like em, still can't turn full lock with them but alllmost. 3.07 gearing in it still won't have enough to fix that til tax-time

accurate depiction of what the factory lighting looks like at night... a dull glow! haha badass ferd commercial!

yeah that's about as extreme as extreme sports gets love watchin those guys. freakin awesome.

i loved my garmin until i played with my buddys tomtom. thats what i'd go with next go round.

hell yes on the waggy clip. LOVE them. i'd do it if i could find nice enough parts and even though i loaaathe chrome, it'd have to be cause it just looks wrong black.

:rotf:

Here are the other "driver" and "synchronizer" greased up slip the synchro into the driver and it lines up ready to install once both sides are assembled use a screwdriver to keep the couplers and drivers locked up while rolling it through to get the spring holes facing you little spring goes in the big one, pry em in the hole make sure they seat the new pinion shaft is a little tight to work in there and the "saddle springs" have to ramp up on it, to install the instructions say to use the pin (or your punch) as a t-handle and twist while pressing it in. worked like a charm! install the pin back through the pinon shaft re-install ring gear re-install carrier and bearings re-install axles and brakes/wheels (install new brake shoes if you've got a good eye on this photo :rotf: looks like its time, huh?)

Whole install took about 2 hours start to finish, real easy job even with pulling the carrier out. Instructions from Richmond gear were brilliant step-by-step with clear pics, and the actual locker itself works flawlessly! smooth as glass even with a 5spd, only way you can tell its doing its thing is if you get on-and-back-off the throttle through a good corner you can feel the understeer when the locker engages (kinda fun actually :brows: ) start by draining the diff, i actually had to use a mini-torch to loosen up the rtv i used last time! thing was STUCK yank passenger side axleshaft (only pass side at this point until you find out if you have to pull the carrier or not) use a punch to knock out the pinion shaft retaining pin you'll probably want a set of these before you start on this (unless your axle has a bolt not a pin) This is the point where you find out whether or not you'll have to pull your carrier/ring gear. If the gear is to thick the pinion shaft won't come out without removing the ring gear first. DOH! pull drivers side shaft now too in order to remove carrier. unbolt bearings and use pry-bars as such to pop it out ring gear removed, pull the pinion shaft rotate the spiders around to the opening everybody falls out in yuor hand. be sure to remove the washers outside the gears the locker does not use them Parts of the locker all out of the box, pretty simple design lube with heavy grease the teeth on the drivers couplers and synchros install saddle springs with grease so they don't fall out during assembly install ring gear side first (i think this mainly only matters when the ring gear is still installed)

Installed my new powertrax no-slip locker from richmond gear check it out here http://www.richmondgear.com/powertrax/noslip.html i've got a full set of install pics I'm gonna post up as soon as they upload, and a youtube vid of it in action! fKBp_oPMSfw

in my southern truck, no rust issues with the rear bumper, i've pulled a 1000lb (ish) camper with no problems ~400 miles round trip. it seemed really solid. however rust and 20+yr old bumpers is a different story so each truck may perform differently now-days.

i spring-overed with the stock packs and stock mopar perches and stock shackles and got 5.5" of lift over stock measurements i found from an old post by EAGLE i thought stock height was 19.5 rear? you sure on that 21.5? edit: after searching a little i tracked down an old post claiming 20.5" stock rear height? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23049&hilit=lift+height+measurement and yet another thread claiming 19" rear http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9737&p=119990&hilit=lift+height+measurement#p119990 why don't we have a stock truck height measurment party and then average the results for a bonafide 20yr old saggy spring 4x4 rear height measurement.

pretty much SOL on gettng anything aftermarket that i know of, factory can be found on EBAY or a junkyard.

to do it the "right" way, swapping the harness i'd expect a full day of work in the truck pullin the dash and running the harness, but you'll get practice when pulling the parts harness so maybe it won't be that bad. consider a heater core for 40$ while you're in there. it'd certainly be easy with the dash out. outside once the harness is run inside the truck it'll be no sweat, just plug n play. you will need a fuel sender for an HO comanche and the fuel lines or possibly you could reverse the polarity by swapping some wires at the fuel sender (HO gauges read backwards from renix gauges) also exhaust manifold for an HO will not bolt up to the intermediate pipe for a renix, so you'll need to swap the exhaust from the cat to the manifold, tailpipe will still work fine. and you'll want to consider getting the radiator/hoses/bottle setup off the parts jeep too. as far as automatic with a manual harness, it'd be to much work to hack something together so you'll want to go ahead and start with an automatic parts jeep, that way you have the TCU and all the extra sensor-age/wiring.

the pcv in the valve cover usually gets pretty funky on these motors, might be time to pop off the cover and clean it out whenevr you've got some extra time on your hands.

Image Not Found try copying the IMG tag next to the photo in your 'bucket' then paste it in the reply box. then your pics will show on the forum with no link-clicking necessary! hope you got all the rust cut out! glad i live in GA! :cheers: