Oizarod115

seriously? its not like they don't already know all of that anyways.

do you have fuel pressure and hot spark at the plugs? we can assume you have air, so all you need is fuel, spark, and timing. if you have fuel and spark then your culprit is going to be either computer or cps/wiring. something isn't in time.

well the ax15 swap is done and it works great, i had a front drive-shaft failure, (noisy as hell!!) after a long wheeling trip with another club member and our buddies. and have now started my lift. got a picture or two here, no good ones yet, just a phone pic. working on a 6.5" kit using; 4.5" hand-me-down RE springs and a 2" spacer (til i can afford springs) Rough country drop brackets rock krawler 6.5-8" trackbar explorer+comanche leaf spring mix spring over axle. either a xj44 or a discbrake 8.8, i have both just havent decided which way to go. (44 has matching gearing, 8.8 has discs. its a toss up) the late-model transfer case left my driveshaft to long at stock height, so i should be good there, the front shaft that was coming apart i'll replace with an automatic shaft since according to the D/S thread is an inch longer (and MUCH easier to find)

so you gonna get rid of that pontiac :ack: sig in favor of a manche!?!?! :D

clearly you've never had a trans crossmember bolt snap off due to rust. I hate rust. :rant: Is it possible to remove one without losing a bolt? yeah, to add to that previous statement, i DAMN sure don't wanna work on any northern vehicles. (never seen one break)

do WHAT? how is that normal wth?

did you buy another one?

i am soooo glad when i opened this you're trashing the show... i was going to quietly lose some respect for ya buddy! freaking moronic show, i've never seen something more mind-numbing. "wow we cut the door open, and there's metal and stuff inside... OMFG"

great decision... if you already have it apart, putting it back together isn't that bad, and a used head should be dirt cheap. slap one on and see what happens, worst comes to worst you buy a used engine and swap it out. :cheers:

i wish the 4.0L had a one piece rear main so you could just drop the transmission and put one in it. it would be a hell of alot better than the ancient half-arsed two-piece seal we've got.

the u-joints are not bigger just because it's a non-cad axle.. it has to be a late-model or an early model with ABS to have big u-joints. otherwise they'll be just as dinky as the ones you have. you can also find a 95 yj with a CAD axle with big ujoints. yes, you can put the single axle in the CAD axle housing, you will need a differnt axle seal though

40 series will sound great, and please don't cut out the cat... it really makes your truck smell like $#!& for everyone in traffic behind you, also doesn't help with our trucks getting lumped in as clunkers and junk. oh, removing the converter will NOT help with gas mileage unless it is clogged, which means it needs to be replaced

check the TPS for the correct signal (Should be .8ish volts at idle) also clean the idle motor like they said. also like said, i wouldn't worry about the oil light yet because the truck is idling low enough to shut off, so i would expect super low oil pressure. you need rpm to build pressure. (sounds like you could use full gauges though!) makes sense if it was idling to low it will die when you load it up by putting it in drive. idle should drop 1-200 rpm in drive i would think.

the pilot bushing needs to fit the input shaft, so if its the right diameter for the input shaft and it fits/stays in the block then you're good. the disc only goes one way so pull it out and check that you have it installed the correct side to the flywheel.

saving money i wouldn't worry about going full-case locker with gears/axles. get you a lock-rite or an aussie (lunchbox locker) these have 1-2hr DIY install times, are full locked when throttle is applied and unlock under light loads, even if the d35 gets thrown out, or junked this locker will still be worth money used to someone else.

that made my skin crawl... UGH i had a spider problem one time, emptied a can of killer in it and let it sit for a few days. CREEPIN me out. roaches is wayyy worse

we need more info and clearer definitions of your problems, but your problems can be fixed! if you're new to the truck i would start with a tune-up including quality cap/rotor/wires, champion copper plugs, and i also suggest a MOPAR crank sensor as preventative maintenance. (don't buy aftermarket on this one, should run you about 90$) also with the tune-up check the air filter, replace fuel filter and clean the throttle body. check the engine for broken vacuum lines and check all the fluids while you're at it. (diffs, transmission too)

the magic of that site is it was so easily laid out for newbies to the renix jeep... us renix guys can sort you out of pretty much any issue you have though, all that info on sensors is in my head. :idea:

Genius, thanks... I just ASSuMEd that they would be expensive

yuo're sure its not the intake gasket? chevrolet motors are NOTORIOUS for intake gaskets mixing oil+water. the 4.3s and 5.7s especially.

thanks for suggestions guys, anyone interested in selling some locks?

:yes:

its possible, any restriction of air on that half-sized radiator we've got will cause problems.

if you're wanting better gas mileage pull your foot out of the throttle to the point that people honk and pass you at every red-light. :cheers: seriously, i drove this way for about 6 months (EXTREME self control) because of a handful of tickets and the gas price spike and saw an increase from 16.5 up to a maximum of 19.5 around town (no interstate, all congested metro area traffic) now i've got my volvo that gets 23-24 no matter what you do.

fuel pump in the manche is no big deal, don't worry about that. but definitely get a multimeter and check for 12v at the pump either when cranking or when first turned to run for 1-2seconds.