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if it's a matter of them not paying you at all, then you have a labor dispute and should file a complaint with the wi department of labor. they will investigate and most likely get you your money. the company you work for can't retaliate against you for filing a dispute. one it's filed, they tend to walk on eggshells for a while. if it's just that they won't cut you a check now and will include it in your next paycheck.. you're up the creek. they do not have to cut you a seperate check in most states as long as you are paid in the end. because it's now a dispute, they can even wait a little longer to verify the proper amount is paid. but that's all up to the wi labor laws. i would call the wi labor department and talk to them. just talking to them doesn't mean you are fileing a complaint. you shouldn't even have to name names, just ask what if. sometimes the labor department compliance and investigations section is in the states attorney's office if you have trouble getting a phone number.

i still say to change it when it's warm. it's also been pointed out that it does more than suspend some of the impurities. warming the engine does melt and loosen the sludge and such. yes some oil will remain in some parts of the motor, but there will still be some if the motor is cold. oil does stay in some of the areas you mentioned, even when cold. you should always find a small amount in the head, otherwise, don't start your engine. it's not possible to get all the oil out unless the entire motor is torn down. even pulling the oil pan won't get every drop of oil. if you look at the reasoning of flow, it still only makes sense to warm the engine. warm oil does flow better than cold oil. so if you warm the engine, the oil will flow out of the nooks and crannies better than if it were cold. i don't really think the flow rate is an issue, but if that's one of your questions, your better off with warm oil. if you want to get more of the oil out of your engine when changing it, you should use an addative. something that will loosen the sludge and crud up and get the oil out of more places. to do that, i've heard of the gunk 5 minute flush, using diesel fuel, running tranny fluid, and others. i run a quart of diesel fuel in the engine about every 3rd oil change. i dump it in and run the engine for 10 minutes or so. it's always worked for me. i've pulled the pan on several of my trucks to see how much of a difference it makes. the pan is definetly cleaner. either way, hot or cold, i think your only looking at minimal differences. if you want opinions though, warm is better.

wi labor laws would be applicable to you. federal laws as well, but it's going to be the wi laws that help or hurt you. unfortunately, most state laws allow for a variety of pay situations. i would guess that the state would require the overtime payment without a doubt. so you should get the overtime pay, period. the thing is, they are probably allowed by law to pay you separate checks for regular hours, overtime, commisions, expenses, etc.. so they are probably ok as far as the law goes. if you want to get something done though, i agree you should go straight to hr. they may try and pawn you off to accounting or payroll, but you need to let them know this is an employee relations issue and that that's what they are there for. be nice, but let them know you need them to help you get this matter resolved asap. no matter how big the company is, they should be able to cut a special check for you. that doesn't mean they have to, just that they can. some larger companies will only cut payroll checks on specific days. so you may have to wait.

:agree: good explanation. i change the oil when it's warm vs cold. if you run a cleaner through when you are doing an oil change, it works much better when you add it to warm oil and let it run 10 minutes or so before you pull the plug. just remember to let it cool a bit or use gloves. warm oil is good, hot oil is bad when you pull the plug.

2nd on stub shaft. you can also call it "that thing-a-magig" or that "damn part". most auto parts stores will understand that lingo. :yes: as far as the u joint, if you are using the 4wd alot or running high hp, step up to a heftier joint from a specialty shop. if it's just your normal usage, any u joint will suffice. napa has some pretty good ones that are kinda middle of the road.

i'll have to disagree on that one. all cars have weak spots, i've never had any wiring issues with any of my audi/vw's. german cars are built to last, that's why you can't find used parts for them or see them at jy's. prices are a little more spending than say a chevy, but in the same ballpark as the subarus. the parts for my audi i've had since 88 aren't cheap, but that's because it's vintage and an actual german model. all my regular audi's weren't bad. if you want to know the weak spots on a subaru, it's the trannies. they are terrible, period. then when you have problems with them, they are incredibly expensive because they are such a pain to work on. my knowledge of this is from being a subaru employee. they are good cars, but they have their weak points for sure. we can all disagree, that's what opinions are for. if i were putting my money into a car, it would go to the audi. besides, the fastest production vehicle on earth is a bugatti (a v/w audi brand) with a 1001 hp audi motor.

i am proud to say my only loan is our mortgage. :clapping: other than that, we don't use credit cards and don't take loans out. if you can't pay for it, you shouldn't have it is my philosophy. to many people are living with huge credit pile up. driving cars they can't afford. i haven't had a car loan since '94. yes i've had some nice vehicles since then, i just save and use the money when i have it. true, i haven't bought a brand new vehicle in the last 10 years or so, but i have 4 vehicles. saving to have a month on hand just in case isn't in my near future. i need to buy the needed things (the wife wants another mini-van). now, with all that said, we are looking bankruptsy down the barrel. i have no loans, but i have huge medical debt for me and one of my daughters. it's something i could never pay. i don't need to make payments on it, it just kind of sits there. the new stuff is taken care of, this is all older stuff. the clinic/hospital/doc's do get paid, just not for the old stuff. no i'm not a jerk. it sits there because we are in a lawsuit over medical malpractice. the amounts that are there are for the time and visits in dispute. i don't have to pay them and i don't need to file them on bankruptsy. i just want to. i want them gone. i don't like having it sit there. besides, if i win my lawsuit, that's more money for me instead of chancing that they may be able to collect. we have wanted to refinance our home for a lower rate, but all this debt sitting there hurts us. if we file, it will be gone and i'll never have to think about it again. at this point we could probably refinance the house within 6 months of the bankruptsy. if the debt stays, it'll be longer until we can take advantage of lower rates. the big thing is that if i would happen to die (yes it's a daily possibility), my wife and kids wouldn't be looking at it. it would be gone. that's a nice piece of mind. i do spend alot on meds each month. then it costs alot to travel to mayo clinic all the time. then there's the mayo bills. for the most part, the mayo bills are now taken care of by studies and research funding. so if the debt is gone, it's not coming back anytime soon. plus, filing for bankruptsy with a medical, is not a very bad thing at all. anyway, enough financial talk, who wants to go jeeping? :D

i am a huge audi fan. i've had one since 88. i've had about 6 over the years, but this one will always stay. i have seen huge mileage numbers on audi's without any major repairs. i had an a4 that i sold with like 350000 miles that still ran great and had no internal repairs done on it. if you want a great car, go for the audi.

Just 'cause I don't 'need' it dun' mean I don't 'want' it. Maybe I should have rephrased that as "I don't need it right now". I might specifically need it, or the maturation of it, at some point in the future, but not now. yah, i just had to razz you a bit. :D i'm lucky and don't have to worry about that. i took early retirement back in '04. ok it's really disability, but i think early retirement sounds better. ;) the check amount never changes (except my yearly inflation increase). if i am due to get it on the 3rd, but that on a weekend or holiday, i get it the friday before. it's nice not to have to worry about it at all. i can never be shorted, i get paid no matter what, and i don't have to worry about job security. what sucks is that i am disabled and living with a disability sucks. it also stinks that my income is limited. if i want to get something expensive, i have to budget it in for the entire month since i only get paid once a month. :ack:

didn't anyone ever tell you to clean your rig before a photo shoot? :clapping:

dude!! can i get you to sign a cap for me? :D i'll sell it on ebay. :yes: that is seriously cool. now your ideas and info are forever stored on the www.

wait a minute! did nobody catch the whole "i don't need the money" thing? :dunno: send it to me when you get it, i need it!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

i sold my last boat when my hips went. that was about 6 years ago. now it's all fly fishing, or fly ins to canada. :thumbsup:

:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

the stuff on mine is black on top and yellow underneath. again, it is only on the top of the fuel pump mount and lockring assembly. not all over the tank. it's pretty sticky as well.

will it make a drive to minnesota? i'd be all over that. :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows:

top of the fuel tank at the electric pump mount. it looks like some sort of wax or very thick grease. anyone know? where can i get some or what should i use?

i have been under it while the steering wheel has been turned back and forth and can't see a thing. that's why i'm a bit puzzled. i thought i'd look under and find a loose tierod or something. :dunno:

oh, oh. someones got some esplainin to do. :D i guess someone should menyion that, if you owe someone money (and who doesn't), don't ask them how to spend the money in your pocket. ;) on the other hand, maybe he hasn't paid you because he can't find your house. maybe he should have gps!! :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

hmmm, sounds like a great deal. i don't know what you guys are talking about. :dunno: that's one fine automobile for such a small price. i'm sure it even has a clear title. come on, it's easily worth that. i've seen them sell for more on berret jackson, and those are all fancy and shiny. who wants a jeep like that? they're worth much more when they are as is and original. :yes: helk i'm gona send him and email and see if he'll take the full $15k for it. i'd hate to take advantage of him. :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

i find that, "i wonder what's down that road" works well for me. :D

ok. i have a clunk in the steering that i need to fix. it's getting worse. this just showed up after i put some larger tires on (not "big" tires) 225 75 16. the clunk is only heard when you turn from the right to the "center" position. right when it hits center there is a clunk. it's not there when coming from the left to center. it happens when it's running or not. i guess maybe you can kind of feel it in the steering wheel, a little. so today i was checking it out and it's coming from the front of the truck, like the steering sector (gear). i can't find anything loose in the suspension, everything seams tight. would a bad sector do this? i've had sectors go and they usually wander or something, i've never had one that clunks. ideas? :dunno:

wow. talk about differing opinions. so here's mine. for your use, a smaller 120 with flux will work just fine. for the big stuff, you'll have to crank up the amps to burn through the thicker metal. of course the smaller welder will not burn through thick metal, but most will do up to 1/4". flux core works great. you just need to practice with it. cheap welders are, cheap. they do work though. it just takes alot more work to get a nice weld. imho it takes more time than it's worth. spend a little more and you'll have more time to do other things. if it's all you can afford, it's better than nothing. as an example, my brother has absolutely no training or experience with welding. he got a little lincoln weld pak flux core welder. he loves it and i've been impressed with his welds. he is really improving and it has been a great way to start. his welds aren't perfect, but he's getting better. i have used a stick welder on aluminum. of course it was a long time ago. it's not great, but it works. they used it in the "old days". :yes: a good mig with gas and solid wire will weld aluminum very well. it used to be that "mig welded" was a selling point for an aluminum item (say a bike). there are other methods of welding too, such as braze welding. braze welding works great on thin sheetmetal or old sheetmetal. i hope to buy a tig this summer. it takes a little longer to do, and more experience to get it down, but the welds can be a work of art. so there's my opinion thrown in to complicate your decision making. ;) ;) ;) ;)

:agree: needs to be honed or rebored. even if you have the wrong rings, it's best to rebore or hone when doing the job.

so it looks like nobody bet on anything besides the fuel pump. since i ordered one, it's pretty obvious that that's what i think as well. i did think i'd get a few bets on some other things though. i guess great minds think alike. :clapping: