dasbulliwagen

I gave my original 2wd driveshaft to a buddy of mine to cut it down to proper length for the lift. Turns out the 2wd slip yoke splines are different than a 4wd slip yoke splines, so I had to swap on my existing slip yoke and new U-joints and mounted it up for a test drive. Turns out it needs balancing. We tried welding back on the existing weights that were on the shaft already, just farther down, but its out too much to drive above35-40 MPH. I'm afraid if I do that too long, it'll screw something up. So we took it to a driveshaft shop for balancing. Hopefully have it back next week. With the huricane coming through it spotty right now who is open or closed. After I get that in, Ill mount up the new steering stabilizer, the new wheels and tires and fab on the new rear shocks. I have the old shocks and lower mounts on it right now, but there isnt much down travel on them. Then Ill need to lock over the CAD and install my Azzy's linkage. I also bought new carpet off of Rockauto. Ill be ckecking the floors out and adding sound deadening mat at that time as well. Bought new red reflective tailgate letters from Spencer at www.jeepsticker.com for whenever I get around to some paint. I'm thinking flat white at this point with black stripes to go with my other red Jeep emblems I have. Kind of a Trailhawk look, white black and red combo. More updates later!

here's mine with the front unlifted. As you can see, the 32's fill the wheel well good.

I had a set on mine for a long time with little to no lift in the front. I say little to no, because when I did my 4x4 conversion I added the 4wd springs and an extra isolator, so I might have had 1/2" lift, and used shackles in the rear on the original 2wd rear springs. They did rub, especially when backing up and turning, or under a heavy load, especially in the rear. But they were usable and I ran it like that for 3-4 years. I'm lifted now so the rubbing isnt an issue anymore. I'm also at 4:10 gearing, so that helped as well. I can't see running these with any less gearing, especially with a 4 cylinder like mine.

Id be interested in the 1986 only 4x4 side graphic in the future. My next project will be an 86 to build for my daughter with a 3.4 / 4L60E swap. I just got some tailgate stickers from you recently. The first set got lost in the mail and you mailed a second set out quickly. This guy is for real everyone! Great product and great service! Thanks Spencer!

We love you Pete. You have and continue to enable all of us addicts. I don't visit as often as I used to, but over the last ten years I've been here, this site has been an invaluable resource. Thanks so much for giving us our fix.

I'm in dead center North Carolina. Mine is currently at the dealership where I've been working on it since June trying to get my lift finished up. I thought about bringing it home, but then I thought, with all the trees at home, it would be safer in the wide open parking lot at work. That and I don't have full coverage on it like I do my other 2 cars. So it should be safe right where it's at.

I looked into this about 10 years ago. The cost and amount of downtime made it a no go for me. All the mods needed to make it fit and be safe in the unibody, lift kit to clear oil pan, trans, and every other unforseen item needed to make it work. I was realistically looking at close to $10,000 all in, doing the work myself. There are other, BETTER options available. And I hate to say it because I'm not a fan of GM products, but Id do an LS swap over this anyday of the week.

Thanks for the input. I researched this a week ago and saw some of your posts about not needing the rear braces. I think Ill pull mine off and modify them so they don't interfere with my trans crossmember. That way I won't have to worry about its placement and I can properly set my rear pinion angle so I can drive it again.

I didn't take pics of the braces, but they weren't flush to the unibody and they were both angled in toward the center of the truck. As for the driveshaft, I guess I'll need to take some measurements and compare it to known shaft lengths and go from there.

Got the front of my lift in. Still have a bunch of adjustments to make and I still have to set rear pinionangle and burn the perches on. I am having fitmentissues with the rear control arm drop brackets braces. They are the RRO ones. They are keeping me from property reinstalling the trans crossmember whichneeds to be done in order to set my pinion angle correctly. My other issue is the rear driveshaft. My 4x4donor vehicle is an 86 long bed with the NP207. I had to order a driveshaft from a junkyard for a short bed. But a short bed never came with a 207 transfer case. It must be shorter than a 231 case because it's most likely that's what the shaft is from because with the pinion near correct angle the shaft wants to fall out. I still have the long bed shaft and I guess I'll get that one cut down and use it if I have to. And another thing I noticed, the sway bar when angled down all the way hits the lower tank on my radiator. I have longer links to put on but I'm a little worried about it popping my radiator if flexed too far. I'll repost this to the tech section to see what of any suggestions you guys might have. Here are a few pics

Got the front of my lift in. Still have a bunch of adjustments to make and I still have to set rear pinionangle and burn the perches on. I am having fitment issues with the rear control arm drop brackets braces. They are the RRO ones. They are keeping me from property reinstalling the trans crossmember whichneeds to be done in order to set my pinion angle correctly. Has anyone had fitment issues with the RRO brackets? My other issue is the rear driveshaft. My 4x4 donor vehicle is an 86 long bed with the NP207. I had to order a driveshaft from a junkyard for a short bed. But a short bed never came with a 207 transfer case. It must be shorter than a 231 case because it's most likely that's what the shaft is from because with the pinion near correct angle the shaft wants to fall out. Has anyone run into this issue? I still have the long bed shaft and I guess I'll get that one cut down and use it if I have to. And another thing I noticed, the sway bar when angled down all the way hits the lower tank on my radiator (2.5L). I have longer links to put on but I'm a little worried about it popping my radiator if flexed too far. Has anyone else run into this before?

Got the front of my lift in. Still have a bunch of adjustments to make and I still have to set rear pinion angle and burn the perches on. I am having fitment issues with the rear control arm drop brackets braces. They are the RRO ones. They are keeping me from property reinstalling the trans crossmember which needs to be done in order to set my pinion angle correctly. My other issue is the rear driveshaft. My 4x4 donor vehicle is an 86 long bed with the NP207. I had to order a driveshaft from a junkyard for a short bed. But a short bed never came with a 207 transfer case. It must be shorter than a 231 case because it's most likely that's what the shaft is from because with the pinion near correct angle the shaft wants to fall out. I still have the long bed shaft and I guess I'll get that one cut down and use it if I have to. And another thing I noticed, the sway bar when angled down all the way hits the lower tank on my radiator. I have longer links to put on but I'm a little worried about it popping my radiator if flexed too far. I'll repost this to the tech section to see what of any suggestions you guys might have. Here are a few pics.

That milage number is the last time it was at a dealer.

There is little to no info on our trucks for the 86-88 model years. here's the build sheet that comes up for yours. Almost none of the build codes here are correct for our trucks. Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *X3 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE -H9 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE AGC Black Ram 1500 Sport Group APA Monotone Paint CBA Straight Back Bench Seat CGX RR Head Restraints Outboard Seating DDJ DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ERB 3.6L V6 24V VVT Engine GAC Tinted Glass Windows GPB Blind Spot,Pwr,Fold Pursuit Mrrs JAY DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JGB Digital Clock JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJA Cigar Lighter LAP Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LMA Halogen Headlamps MDA Front License Plate Bracket NAA Federal Emissions NHQ Transmission Heater NMB Standard Duty Engine Cooling PWB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE QWB DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE SBA Power Rack and Pinion Steering TBG Compact Spare Tire WMC Open Vehicle Service Information Year/Model: 1988 DESC NOT FOUND Last Odometer: 99,711 miles on August 21, 2001 Body Style: MJTL61 In-Service Date: Engine: ERB-3.6L V6 24V VVT Engine In-Service Odometer: 0 miles Transmission: Odometer Type: miles Color 1: PWB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Car Line: W Color 2: QWB-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Build Date: November 11, 1987 Current Market Register: U Hour: 24 Vehicle Sale Information Selling Dealer: 23969 - FRANK GRIFFIN JEEP EAGLE CHRYS Sales Type: 1 - DIRECT RETAIL City: JACKSONVILLE State/Province: FL Country: USA Telephone: (904)737-1520

Post your vin here or pm me and ill run it through Chrysler. I'm a dealer tech and have access.

Makes me wonder if the solenoid is looking for a park or nuetral command from the trans before energizing the starter solenoid. Maybe thats what the wires from the trans are. You would have to look up a wiring diagram to be sure of this. Might just be a matter of jumping those wires so the solenoid get the proper complete circuit.

I just got my hitch painted, but havent installed it yet. I'm in the middle of lifting the truck right now, so it will be after that. It looks purty all painted up though!

Jeep TJ-LJ-XJ-MJ Front Control Arm Set Tier One (Copy), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MFQSFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rjutBbFRA4Q9W

I'm in the middle of doing my lift and I've come to find out the WJ control arms I wanted to use aren't going to work for me. I'm looking at the set of Core 4x4 adjustable tier one arms on Amazon. Does anyone have any experience with these. As an added bonus, they come painted in multiple colors which is nice. I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks.

Stay away from the 2.4 4 cyl models. They are prone to oil consumption. When they get about 3 quarts low, the oil pump will loose prime, and the engine will just shut off. The intake valves in the Multiair assy are run off of oil pressure, and if they don't have oil, it doesnt open the valves. It sounds just like when you break a timing belt and the engine spins over with no compression. Topping off the oil and cranking it until it primes again gets it running again. As far as I know to this point they have yet to fix that issue. But the 9 speeds are less of an issue in the newer models, people still complain about how they shift sometimes though.

I finally started my lift. Did the rear half tonight. I still need to weld it in and locate the lower shock mounts. My driveshaft popped out at full droop while getting it situated. I'm not sure it's going to be long enough by long term. I guess I'll need to start looking for a good 8.8 to put in. That will help a little.

Did the rear half of my lift. I've been saving parts up for years now. I still need to weld the perches and shock mounts. I'll do the front half next week.

RIP Jim. You will be missed.

No sorry.

Appears to be the contactor for the park brake switch light.