Sugarfoot

1.39 Here in Austin TX 12/10/2008 Phillips 66 Austin - South Wed 8:30 AM 1222 South Lamar & Lamar Square

:agree: I think your off on a wrong tangent and you need to be careful with what your rewiring. Before you do more damage than good hot wiring etc. Remember KISS: keep it simple stupid. Someone on this site has got to have an 89 with a 2.5 that can tell you where the voltage resistor is for the fuel pump? Wish I could help but I'm 4.0 and mine is where the photos show it is on the 4.0. Don't jump for the power source. Pull battery, clean connections then install test battery. Not rock on, it's Hook em Horns!

Anyone got a Commemorative Comanche Cowboy hat? I do. As cowboy hats go it so so.

I'm kind with Wildman on this. The PO put a new alternator on or more than likely a rebuilt one on. So at some point the battery was drained more than likely. It takes very little voltage on a high mileage motor to turn it over. But not enough to keep a hot enough spark and the electronics going. The battery may be just too weak, can't take a charge, but has enough to turn over but not up enough to move enough current around. With that much oil blowing by and all over it, your motor is pretty loose. Might turnover with a couple of D cell batteries to the starter LOL Any chance you can borrow someone's better/newer battery for 30 minutes? Got to have juice and gas, I think you have gas. Is it good gas? You say it sputters? any popping? water in the gas? Sure its good fresh fuel? You might pull the induction hose off the throttle body, get it to start, when it wants to die pour a little gas down the throttle. Please use a small amount of fresh gas in an 8 oz tin can with about an inch or two of gas in it when trying this. A trickle is best and goes a long way. A steady hand is important. Before starting take a long screwdriver or tool and wedge the throttle butterfly open not allowing it to close and choke. 2 or 3 small pours and she stays running answers your fuel question. Do not flood. Do not light your hair on fire. If so throw can away from you. Also check the two wires to the fuel pump at the tank, look close. Check for a short between them specifically as one laying on top of the other. After it starts, runs for 20 seconds, then dies. Will it just keep doing that over and over for say 10 times in a row? While some say a picture is worth a thousand words, hearing a motor run or turn over can be too. I'm still sticky with the battery as the culprit. As it's newest hint of trouble was the replaced alternator. James and Sugarfoot

You know I just went back and was looking at your Jeep, then the Fire Engine Red one and that deep shade of blue then the great looking white truck. Then back to your 1st Jeep pic and thought it's right in front of him, just not completed. Paint All the Bed, rear flairs- Fire Engine Red Doors, cab roof, and pillars- White Hood, fenders, front flairs- Dark rich blue Red, White, and Blue, done right might not look too bad. Sure can't say it's not patriotic. :USAflag: Maybe a little flashy?? :brows: Defiantly a head turner. :rotf: :cheers:

How about Robin Egg Blue? Sorry I don't have a pic to show. But it's a real color and that's the true name of it. It looked great on the early 60's GMC Stepside Apache trucks. Its not flashy but a real head turner color. A deep rich sky blue color you just don't see anymore. Should look ok with gray and black interior the more gray the better. Non metallic, enamel base (inexpensive), no clear coat required, easy to touch up, hides dirt and dents, looks great with chrome. Any quality Dupont Automotive paint dealer should be able to look it up. I dig that bumper though. What year S-10 is that from and is it available in all chrome? Pics on the bracket mods? James and Sugarfoot Austin TX GO HORNS!!!

Today George said and I quote from Yahoo home page. "I am concerned about the viability of the automobile companies," he told reporters on the South Lawn. "I am concerned about those who work for the automobile companies and their families. And likewise, I am concerned about taxpayer money being provided to these companies that may not survive." Hyundai has more money and is in a much better position to buy out Chrysler. But I doubt they have an interest in the Jeep "niche" market and would more than likely let it go. They would be out for the manufacturing facilities and assets more than anything. The cars themselves can go away. I mean if your in the car business why would you want to buy a generally loser line? We all know Jeep screwed up when they dropped the XJ as we know it. Liberty, Commander? totally missed the niche target they were after.

Yep I agree, if patient on eBay another will come along in time. eBay is just not what it used to be though. Too many distributors. Too many "Buy it Nows" with inflated shipping prices. Not that I have a problem with someone getting something for their time, to photo, write up, list, reply to email questions, weigh and quote the real freight price to the zip find a box/make a box, drive down to shipping source, fill out the paper work, and stand in line for a while. Everyone's time is worth money, but putting the screws to someone is not what eBay should be about. Yes, Supply and Demand at its purest form. I would like to see eBay return to the original more home based sellers and individual collectors rather than so heavy in mercantile distributors. But what has happened is the opposite and has forced the home base guy with stuff around the house he wants to get rid of off eBay because he has to compete with a Corporation. Web sites are for corporations and distributors and they flood the category forcing you to scroll through tons of endless "Buy it Now" stuff of 3rd party low quality. imported junk. Not much of an auction any more either. eBay in a sense cut their own throat due to greed. As the world turns....

All of our truck's existence is in peril. To most of us our 2nd parent, Chrysler, (I believe more of us were built by AMC than by Chrysler) is in dire straits. Bankruptcy may be emanate. A very bad situation. Our trucks are in a restoration status mainly. To all I suggest you get a FACTORY manual, get some good tools, learn your truck and how to work on it. It's not hard. Maintain it, take better care of it. Just playing with it will not cut it. If so your killing it slowly and more than likely sooner than it should be. Granted all things have a RPM failure life cycle. Most of the motors are almost bullet proof but that does not mean the whole truck is. Realize that Chrysler/Jeep will soon not be with us, I personally feel they will be bankrupt by next summer. What will happen? Parts will be very available and some bargains will be had in original MOPAR parts made available via inventory stock sell offs from dealers and company warehouses. Grab these parts while you can! Chrysler/Jeep will go the same way AMC Jeep did. True AMC old stock packaged parts are almost impossible to find. Chrysler parts will be the same way in about 3-5 years. Third party manufactures will stick around a little longer but will slowly die off and prices will go up due to high demand, less manufactured. When Chrysler/Jeep goes away our trucks will go to a lesser value for a period of time. Than they will start coming back up in value again. In another 5 years they will be worth twice or more what they are worth now. Today, many in good shape, sell for what they cost new. We have always been to a certain extent a collectible vehicle due to the very low production numbers we have. The collectors are going to start looking at us more now. NO ONE SHOULD BE SELLING THEIR TRUCK CHEAP NOW. I know times are getting tough and some will need the money but if you sell it I promise you will regret it. I know this for truth as I would love to have my first car at 16 years of age, a 1963 2 door Chevy Impala with the 327 and Powerglide trans, they made a lot more of those than they made of our trucks and today one would pay around 10k for 1 in rough running condition. If restored they are worth 18-20,000. I recall selling mine for 500.00 in 1975. Today true factory GM parts go for some serious money. If your a restorer 3rd party parts will not cut it. Matching numbers is huge. If you truly love your Comanche truck start using preventive maintenance before things break. Seriously start thinking in restoration mode. 5 years from now parts are going to start being an even bigger problem and the price for restoration is going to double/triple. Our endless food chain of Cherokees will disappear from the wrecking yards quicker, stripped of parts to cover the loss of dealer sources. Yard prices for used Chrysler vehicle parts will go up 30-50%. Then they will be gone. It's hard enough to find a Comanche in a yard now, soon in time it's going to be hard to find a Cherokee too. But again for a period of time there will be a surplus of them headed to the yards as those owners will opt out of the escalated price for repair parts from Chrysler who no longer exist and will just go ahead and wreck it out. The insurance companies are going to be much more apt to total them out, due to the fact the parent company no longer exists. This is real true for any Chrysler car built in the last 5 years. Large fleet buyers are already not considering Chrysler products due to a high chance there will be no warranty assistance and replacement part availability. Start thinking now about how to save your truck. Make an investment that will come back to you. Start throwing good factory body parts up in the attic. Cover and protect that good second bed you have outside in the rain. James and "Sugarfoot" Red 88 Comanche Pioneer 4.0 4x4

In my observations from about a month ago. NO they will not work. The Comanche holding unit, less the pump (as the pumps are the same) is longer in length and in drop inside the tank of a short bed. Not sure about longbed. Anyone? Therefore the fuel level reading will be erroneous. You'll have to drop the tank too. I had to, but maybe someone here will chime in and tell you a trick on how to replace the unit without dropping it. I released the filler at the door, then the 2 straps and then the 2 small hose connections on top of the tank, drop the drive shaft at the dif and make sure you mark the driveshaft. I also suggest sanding, priming, and painting your old tank before remounting. Drain all the gas as much as possible as it's a little more of a fight with gas inside. Check you wiring and resecure it well. Replace the screen at the pump (4-4.50 at Advance Auto) I bought my new pump off Ebay for 55.00. Wear some goggles and use your safety jacks. The fuel filter is inline along the inside DS frame rail, may or may not need replacement depending on age of filter and condition of tank upon removal and inspection. Not a fun one but doable. One I would say if it aint broke don't fix it though.

Nothing more rarer than a straight factory rear bumper on a Comanche! Gets my vote as the worst engineering on our trucks.

My bet is Ball joints with that many miles on it. Previous owner over 60-70 years of age? If so that explains the vib at a lower speed than where it usually is at, which is around 65 mph on any high mileage vehicle. Basically a high mileage worn spot after hours and hours of highway miles at a continues set speed. You rack more time and miles at that speed than any other speed you drive. It's possible to have if you always drove at 30 mph max for 20 years. The plow is just shifting the load, keeping the front end weighted down. Does it go away at 75/80 mph? My bet is it does?

Looks like a longer hose might work. Your hose looks a little bloated anyway and also looks to maybe have been trimmed down? How much travel in the adjustment of that belt? Shorter/longer belt maybe? You don't need much. No $$ loss as you would always have a spare. Check your motor mounts.

Man I would love to replace my windshield. At this time of the year when the sun is going down and your headed due west into it you can see every micro chip in mine. Looks pretty bad as it is the orginal. I would have a pro do it but I was wondering what it ran you cost wise? The world has got to look a heck of a lot better too. Go Horns!! Look out Tide your next!

So did you ever get in to see the original truck? The way things are going with the Big 3 you just might want to do that soon and make them an offer to buy it on the spot. I have great fear for Chrysler's future. Have you approached the AMC clubs with your project? I think the water damaged files could be true due to the early July storms that I worked up there. But throwing them out would be a great surprise to me as freeze drying has gotten really cheap over the last few years. Their insurance should have covered that. But then again that's flood damage and it appeared Flood coverage from FEMA does not exist in that area. But they should have had data insurance anyway. Hard to believe they were still strictly paper archives from 1986-88???. If Chrysler were to go under, hopefully they will donate all their archives to a museum such as what Chris Craft Boats did with the Mariners Museum. I support your project however you eventually get there. Let me know when you plan to go the Salt Flats. I drove through there this summer and it is a way cool place. I'll gladly make a trip back to see a Comanche do 185 mph. Especially a red one. GO HORNS !!! LOOK OUT ROLL TIDE we figure you as next. We will crush you!

Wow sounds kinda cool. So you can actually make it "wink"? You might pick up some chicks with that one. Sorry man I couldn't help it. I have no clue. Put it all back the way it was. I did a complete upgrade with wiring and new lights. Best thing I ever did for mine. Hornbrod did it on his 92 too and he sent me all the info in a PM. I'm not saying it was cheap either cause it ran me 100.00 plus but the end results are excellent. I HIGHLY recommend the change so you might PM him and ask him directly. James and Sugarfoot 1988 4.0 4x4 Austin TX GO HORNS!!! YEE HA! South Austin: We're all here cause we're not all there.

Also check your wires entering the fuel pump at the gas tank. Look over the wires real well to check if they are shorting to each other. Ones orange I think and the other is black. Mine had rubbed a 1/4 inch of insulation off between them and would make contact and cause it to run strange, or not start at all. Once under way the wind under the truck would seperate them and the problem or weakness in performance would go away. Drove me nuts for a while. I knew it was a fuel problem though. Ordered a new pump and in the process found the problem with the wires. I had already dropped the tank so I went ahead and replaced the pump, sanded up and painted the tank to preserve it and put some liquid tape on the wires and rewrapped. Yee HA GO HORNS!!

Found part of my answer here. I guess it pays to look around. I still would like some others feed back from their experiance of changing from Closed to Open System. ************************************************************* Post subject: Re: Blower motorPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 7:26 pm Comanche Addict Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:35 pm Posts: 2696 Location: Shiloh, NC And on a side note about the vacuum controlled valve on the heater hose. When there is no vac to it, it defaults to always open, or flowing of coolant. _________________ KEEP IT SIMPLE "Back in Black" 1989 2wd 4.0L 5spd MJ Eliminator 1996 4wd 4.0L AW4 XJ Classic <<<>>>

You need to find out what gears are in each axel and they need to be the same or very close in numbers. Example 411 rear and 410 front. You did not answer Pete's question about the U-joints on the front axel though?. This will make a clanking or ticking sound when under way. What does your problem sound like? Is it constant?

I converted over from the closed radiator system to the open system last year. This change also effects the hearter control valve and hose routing. So you have to be a bit creative with what valve you put in place. I made the mistake of going with a plastic body valve. It self distructed this summer so I want to go back with a metal body valve this time. Anyone one else done this mod? What valve did you go with? Now that it has been some time I can't remember if it is a vac on/ closed valve or a vac off/ close valve. James and Sugarfoot 88 4.0 4x4 Pioneer Austin TX. GO HORNS In South Austin we have a saying about why we live here. It's "We're all here cause we're not all there."

So let me get this straight, you did buy the 2.5 Comanche as a daily driver and for the gas mileage? Tune it up and leave it alone. If it's not broke don't fix it. Get familiar with the truck, you've only had it for less than 4 months.

There is a retail chain and internet sales company called Camping World or Campers World. that also caries them. They come in small, medium, and large. I have a camper on mine and the only thing I would add would be a 3/4" wood deck across the bed above the rear wheel wells. Would be nice to have a trap door in the floor up towards the cab too. But doubles your storage under the new bed and broadens the bed itself for you and the old lady, couple of kids or your dog or cat or backback or chrome piece etc.

1.79 A gallon!!! 7-11 on South Lamar, Austin TX

Has anyone tried power XJ seats yet? I have a set of nice gray ones sitting in storage and if they won't work I need to get rid of them.

Looks to me like all he needs is a can of liquid rubber insulation for sealing the electrical connections one or maybe two coats and a can of undercoat for the pump body. Gasoline has to have a pretty HOT flame to get it to ignite. A cigar will do it, but a cigarette will not. Flip a cigarette in a metal oil drain pan with say 1/2 inch of gas. The cigarette will go out. Back in the 60's I used to clean parts with gas and smoke at the same time. Gas or kerosene was all we had to clean with. That's why there is no ignition with the tiny sparks from the armature, Not hot enough. There is always some oxygen in the tank via the over flow. I don't think AMC was that meticulous. Besides it is running at an even lower voltage due to the resistor up on the DS fender. That voltage I do not recall but I am sure some one here does. I think that if AMC had received any reports of gas tank explosions due to running the pump dry then there defiantly would have been a recall. Never heard of one. I think the insurance companies would have been all over it too due to the risk involved, so would DOT. IMO, run it this way till you find a decent used gas tank. Paint it up for protection and return to the OEM design. Mainly due to the fact that the anchoring of the fuel cell is probabaly the weakest link. How do you check your gas level? Dip stick? Nothing wrong with that. I have to do that on my boat and it was designed that way by Chris Craft. I do give you credit for devising the set up. I'm more inclined to believe that someone has knocked a good size hole in their gas tank way out yonder and fabing up some type of replacement reservoir (5 gallon jerry can) just to get home and hooking up this way provides a way of getting the fuel to where it needs to go with a little extra wire and a few extra feet of fuel line. Might not even need the fuel line if you can get the jerry can to sit on the front bumper. If people don't try different ways and methods we would never move forward.