glundblad

I had a chief repainted and it required new decals. Chiefs have stickers on the rockers and the hood. A small, local sign company redrew them using Adobe illustrator or something similar and printed them on vinyl stock. They were not close to the originals. They looked exactly like the originals and I am pretty picky. These sign companies need to have graphic artists on staff to redraw logos and so on. They took photos before the old decals were removed and they also took a door back to their shop if I recall correctly (my truck was in pretty rough condition). They charged the body shop about $500 if I recall. That included installation. I suggest you contact local body shops and/or local sign companies and see if they know of a vendor in your area. I have also seen the "Sportruck" decals on e-bay. I have no idea if they are any good or not.

No tool can prevent all infections and no tool can repair all damage. No matter what the claims are, you can never be absolutely sure you have removed and/or repaired everything. Copy all you can to a thumb drive and wipe and reload.

So are you saying it would be worth $5k if it landed on the moon? I don't see it. :rotf:

Eagle, You really rock. The info here and what you gave me in a previous post??? For your own sake, I hope you look this stuff up in an old book somewhere and that you don't keep this stuff stored in your head? :brows: Why don't you stop by my house sometime and swap out my 3.08 hears in my D44. It would be a great time. I will even buy you lunch. :yes:

He is right. I don't know the policy specifically regarding paypay, If you paid via credit card, contact your credit card company immediately and you can dispute it. The credit card company will pull the funds. Always pay with a credit card. I bought some reconditioned Comanche rims from a company in Michigan. I think they purchased them from several vendors throughout the country. The finish wasnt the same on all the wheels and the casting was slightly different on some of them. I called their customer service department and explained i wanted matching rims. They said their policy was returns only if they were faulty. Since there was nothing wrong with the rims, there was nothing they could do. The customer service person was an absolute mix between a donkey and a horse (and I am sure she was fat too). I withdrew payment through my credit card company and received some UPS return labels shortly thereafter. What was really funny about it was I told her I wanted them to match and if they didnt match, I was going to withdrawl payment with my credit card company. She said go ahead and she would show them proof that she delivered the product. In other words, she had no idea the credit card companies did this. We flew to Hawaii last summer and Aloha Airlines went bankrupt and stranded us in Hawaii. Aloha wouldnt refund our money. Since we purchased our ailine tickets via credit card and not through a travel agent, we pulled the funds and got our money back. I think you have a deadline or something so you better get to it and always use a credit card.

Wow, North East Indiana rules.

Wow. Small world. You are less than 20 miles from me. Gary Larwill, Indiana

I agree. It may not be stripped. It is just difficult to get to. Get a flashlight and be prepared to twist your back out. If you think it sucks now, wait until you try to put it back on... :brows:

I think that came from a 4 door? If it did, it won't tilt forward.

You can't save them all. don't worry about it. By the way, where did the actual cargo light reside? I have never seen one.

We had chickens until last year. We also had a couple of Silkies. They were interesting until the barred owls mistook them for furry mammals... :eek:

Mine is pretty noisy. I was going to post this question myself. I remember it was always noisy even when new. It sounds as if I have a leaky air brake and yes, I would say it is as loud as the exaust. I have a new tank that was installed at the dealer about 4 years ago when my dad owned it. I have no idea if it was OEM or aftermarket. I assume it was OEM. I might crawl under there and check later. Thanks Juan. My fuel pump is pretty new too and the dealer installed it. My son saw an old rusted Cherokee POS drive by and he said it sounded exactly like the Comanche, fuel pump and all. I always assumed it was normal. But yes, it is annoying. And sorry CWLONGSHOT, I am glad to hear that someone else has the same problem. :waving:

Thanks. That was the only one I DO remember. See what happens when you turn 46?

Can anyone make a recomendation on a source for OEM parts. Awhile back, someone suggested a great web site. I bookmarked it and then my hard drive crashed so no more bookmarks. I am in need of the factory fog lights with the black plastic covers. The site that I bookmarked had them.

Hmm, I can't get the visual out of my head. I am not exactly sure that was the objective I was trying for. :rotf:

Amen to that! I wasn't trying to be a paint nazi by any means. I know paint work (done propperly), is very expensive. That's why I do it! I don't make a buttload of money, unfortunately. When I do a 50k resto, that includes parts, materials, and all labor. (including stuff I have to have out sourced.) I was just making the point that you get what you pay for. And to the guy who paid 2000 bucks for a 1 year paintjob, sorry. Shops like that make the rest of us look bad. I understood exactly what you meant. I felt the same way. I wanted my paint job to be as near perfect as possible. I knew I would be keeping the truck for the rest of my life. As far as you being the "Paint Nazi", don't knock it. I sort of like the sound of that. :brows:

I took the comanche into the shop (yes, the dealer :shake: ). It has been running very well except for at idle. Then it was a little rough. I already replaced quite a bit. Rotor, plugs, wires, iac motor, o2 sensor, injectors cleaned. I was really running out of ideas. I was able to request a guy that had a 4.0 and worked there for a long time. He replaced the EGR valve and a solenoid vacuum switch whatever that is. It is smooth as silk now. She was able to climb hills just fine and accelerate while doing it. I was going 65mph+. So it looks like the gear combo I have is fine for city and highway use(although more would be better). What a relief.

Believe it or not, the engine runs like a top. Very smooth except a slight idle problem I am looking into. But if I were to travel down the highway at 65mph and climb a hill, it will slow down even if I floor it. The truck came with 225 tires but I put 235 on it. My other thought is that perhaps the clutch is slipping due to a stunt from my younger days that my wife still brings up after 17 years :ack: Do you think this is abnormal performance or should this be expected?

Well, everyone grab your chest because you may feel some chest pains coming on. I asked about how much it would cost (at a dealer) to change the ratio. $1,200 per axle. :ack:

Mine was $6,000. It included removing the bed, replacing fenders, rockers, cab corners, stickers, windshield. About everything you can imagine. Pictures are in my signature. I am considering repainting my tahoe. It requires minimal body work. That was going to be around $4,000

Thanks guys. If I recall correctly, Dana put a tag at the diff to indicate which gears were installed. Because I live in Indiana, they would be rusted beyond recognition. If I did find some axles, how would I know if they 3:73 verses 4:10? Is it safe to say that 3:73 is perhaps the best for all around use? Also, my diff has limited slip. Is that comon or would I most likely be giving that up?

Hey Bud, why is my mother in law sitting on your couch?

Sorry about this. I see now I left out a lot of important information. Yes it is the '87 4.0 5 speed. 3.08 is how it was geared from the factory. I don't quite understand why they would have geared it the way they did. I don't see ever going to tires larger than the 235 (I don't know how many inches that translates to). The truck atually has an easy life. I don't intent to ever get rid of it and it is not my primary driver. In other words, it is a toy. The only problem is I am an idiot when it comes to cars so any time I need something repaired, I need to take it somewhere. I am sort of hearing people say it is a PITA to change the gearing in the front/rear unless I get lucky at a junk yard? Are the parts not available new? I would bet that is the worst gear ratio they put in these. Would you agree?

I know this has been discussed a million times but I just found out what my gear ratio is and I know nothing about this. It is 3.08. I am not sure but I think that sucks and wanted everyone's advice. My truck originally came with 225 tires and I recently added 235's. The engine barely runs as I go down the highway. But if I am going 60mph and climbing a hill, I could easily downshift. What is optimal for highway use on 235 tires and is the ratio easy to swap on both axles with new parts or would I need to get them at a junkyard? I have a d44 on the rear and no idea on the front.

I am not sure what you guys are getting at with my cl post. Are you willing to trade a truck 2 wheel or not? ;)