jeepcoma

Sure is a beauty though.

Shipping was cheaper direct from C2C and also RockAuto didn't have listed the full half floors, just the separate pans. Guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet...

Just wondering if anyone here is a member and could look up the Classic 2 Current discount code for me? It's the only place on the internet I've seen it offered thus far that looks legit (and trust me, I've been searching!). I looked into registering but of course there's a $15 fee to do it. I'd save about $30 off my order with the 15% discount, but it's a gamble since it might not be valid anymore. http://www.pontiacregistry.com/members/ ... 0b0081a92f

Oh yeah, got one of those in the back. Little dirty but should clean up OK. Shoot me a PM with your details, I'll see when I can get this out :cheers:

Can you take a pic? I might have a spare for you. I removed mine from the old bumper when I put the JCR Offroad one on, I had planned to modify them to light the new bumper but didn't end up doing it.

I got a cheap used 6A lying around and put it in. I was pleasantly surprised by the results. After cap/rotor/coil/wires/plugs I was still having trouble restarting in the winter, if it was in cold-idle mode just after startup and the engine stalled it would basically be flooded and impossible to start. I threw the 6A on and noticed it starts quicker, idles smoother, and it's more resistant to stalling in the first place; if I do bog it out, it restarts more easily. Maybe it's helped my economy (I added a 6AL to my Camaro LT1 for the superior spark-dropping rev limiter; guys claim 1-2 mpg increase on the highway with these) but I haven't measured. Would I buy new? No. If I were to buy new, would I get MSD? No. I think the alternatives are pretty impressive at a much cheaper cost, the Summit brand and HiFyre etc digital options look nice and don't have the MSD "pills" to replace. I think you pay a premium just for the name (as far as ignition boxes go; they make other great stuff like the optispark distributor for LT1s that you do get a premium product for) That being said, I'd sell my 6A for cheap if you're interested! You have to splice into the ignition wiring harness and it's a bit tricky since there isn't much spare room or wiring. All in all though it's less than an hour job, unless you screw something up.

So if I get a brand new balancer, I don't need the "sleeve seal" thingy (FEL-PRO Part # TCS45458 Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve Type: Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve; w/Sleeve 'N' Seal®) , as it's only for repairing the sealing surface if reusing the old balancer? I figure if I'm going to do this, I might as go all the way and do the rear main while I'm at it and the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. They are all combined at the same shipping location from RockAuto so I'll save some bucks on shipping (side rant, I hate the way shipping works at RA, it's always a challenge to figure out which combination of parts to buy to save as much as possible on shipping). Balancer: DORMAN Part # 594018 {#33002920, 83501488} (have read some complaints about this, any benefit to the more expensive units?) FEL-PRO Part # BS40612 {#BS13879} Rear Main Seal Set FEL-PRO Part # OS34308R PermaDry® Oil Pan One-piece FEL-PRO Part # TCS45458 Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve (or FEL-PRO Part # TCS45117 w/o sleeve) FEL-PRO Part # VS50022C1 Valve cover gasket

Too disgusted at the moment to take some pictures, will try to get some tomorrow during the daylight. The floors are too bad, the carpet does a pretty good job holding it together still. The rockers though :ack: look like they were attacked by a blind man with bondo. Those are the pans/rockers I was looking at from c2c, I priced out: CLASSIC 2 CURRENT Part # 0704402 RH; FRONT FLOOR PAN COMANCHE 1986-92 CLASSIC 2 CURRENT Part # 0704401 LH; FRONT FLOOR PAN COMANCHE 1986-92 $43 each CLASSIC 2 CURRENT Part # 0700202 RH; OUTER ROCKER PANEL CLASSIC 2 CURRENT Part # 0700201 LH; OUTER ROCKER PANEL $17 each They also offer "rear floor" pans too, is that even true for the MJ or is it XJ only (even though listed for an MJ)? It's listed as cross-referenced with the Cherokee so I think it's for those and you'd cut the rear part off to fit the JM. Or, is there some critical metal part I need from the rear pans that forms the end of the cab or something? Or, maybe it's just from the middle of the bench seat to the rear? :dunno: Hard to tell "scale" from the pics. If I need the complete Front/Rear/Left/Right, is it best to get the whole left half/right half like this? Anyway, there used to be a source on Amazon.com that was linked in another thread that had the entire floor, one piece from door-to-door including the transmission tunnel, but it's not listed anymore. Anyone know if those are available from anywhere?

In addition to "specified" ratio of the rockers, there's an issue of quality control as well. In the LT1 world it's a popular upgrade the stamped "1.5" rockers with roller rockers (either full or tip) in 1.6 ratio. Beyond the stated improvement of +0.1 in the ratio (and better tip design), it's been found that QC was lacking in the stock stamped rockers. They could vary as much as -0.7, meaning you'd really be running a 1.43 ratio rocker, or even down to 1.40 if there is enough clearance and flex throughout the valvetrain (which explains why some respond so much more drastically to the upgrade). I don't know if it's an issue with the Jeep motors, but it'd be worth measuring at least! :cheers: It's a shame Chrysler hated the 4.0 so much and made only minor changes over the years, I think there's a lot of potential for improvements with more modern components (especially since the 4.0 HO was so cutting edge at the time of it's release, and then basically left alone thereafter).

boo hoo :cry: Just got back from the inspection shop and they wouldn't pass it due to the holes in the floor. An undesired result, but not unexpected. They were showing signs last inspection (two years ago) and these winters take their toll. Was planning to replace them this summer anyway, was just hoping to be able to do it at my leisure and maybe do some of the welding myself, and be able to save up some money for a few months. Anyway, I know a few body guys, so I'm hoping I won't have to pay out the wazoo for labor, but I'd like to purchase the floor pans and rockers myself, then replace everything rather than patching. I've seen a few links around here, but I'm not sure what's "best". I saw a complete floor (including the tranny tunnel), to me this seems "best" but is there a specific pan for the MJ or do you need to get the XJ pan and cut it down in the back where appropriate? Is this the route you would take, or buy the separate driver and passenger side pans (I'm thinking the whole pan because the metal flexes a lot where the 4x4 shifter mounts, to the point that I have trouble shifting because it bends so much). Anything I should know about rockers?

Cool. Anyone have that issue of Four Wheeler with the article? Would be fun to read.

Replaced old seized fan clutch with a new thermal clutch. It spins! Replaced both u-joints on rear driveshaft. Used the cheapo Harbor Freight press thing and have to admit it worked pretty well. Was my first successful u-joint replacement (had some issues with the front d-shaft!) so I was pleased I was able to do it myself. Removed front d-shaft. Am trying to track down a high speed vibration and can't seem to find it. I've replaced nearly everything that moves. Maybe time to look at the tires again, maybe a weight detached :dunno: In for inspection either today or tomorrow, fingers crossed it passes with no drama :ack:

Good timing (pun intended) on this, I just replaced my fan clutch and noticed my balancer wobbling all over the place. What did you end up buying as a replacement, are there any "upgrades" like "fludamper" style balancers, or is OEM good enough (seems like it would be for a low rev application)? What was the puller you used, and the special install tool? Should I get the "repair sleeve" (NATIONAL Part # 88179 on RockAuto)?

Thanks for the info. I think the Wagonmaster site was one of the first I came across in my searches, to say "sticker shock" is an understatement (who knows though, maybe my MJ will be worth $40k one day? :rotf: hahah). I'll have to keep an eye out over the next several months, maybe something will fall in my lap. I had the 258 in my AMC Eagle, wasn't a bad motor at all once I fixed all the vacuum lines, rebuilt the card, and worked all the bugs out. I did the "regular" mods like the HEI swap and the Nutter Bypass, and drooling over the Clifford Performance catalog, and eventually swapped in a Weber 38 DGAS (the "hi-po" version of the popular 32/36 progressive carb) that really woke things up. Still though, seems like the Wagoneer would be a LOT of weight for that motor to lug around; the 360s were pretty choked in stock form but can make some nice power without too much trouble. Come to think of it, I really miss my Eagle and always wanted another or an SX/4 (coincidentally the new Suzuki SX4 looks to be a complete copy of the old AMC) with a manual transmission. Hmm sounds like I have a lot to search for!

Nice find, ultra rare. My only suggestion for an adventure is to drive the hell out of it.

Anyone know a good source for fuel tank straps? Advance Auto has them 3-strap kit for the LB fuel tank, seems kinda pricey at $50 but I've never shopped for them before (Summit has the 2-strap kit for similar price to Advance's 2-strap kit). Spectra Premium Fuel Tank Straps (includes 3 straps) ST117 edit: guess I answered my own question, RockAuto has the same part for $28. Any other sources or recommendations though? Do I need to drop the tank to replace these? My center one broke, I'm hoping I can swap them out one-at-a-time and leave the tank up.

A Grand Wagoneer for next winter (to keep the Camaro convertible in the garage). Don't know much about them. Any years to avoid or look for? AMC 360 would be nice, to pair with my Javelin's 304. I did a quick google search and founds some resto sites selling for $40k+ :eek: :eek: Which is about 40 times what I'd want to pay :yes: . Can "good" ones be found for a reasonable price or are they collectors items now?

I threw a spare MSD 6A on my '91 HO. I didn't expect much out of it, but I was hoping for a bit easier starting in the winter and easier restarts if it stalls while cold (seems like it would flood trying to restart while in warm-up mode, even with brand new plugs/cap/rotor). Maybe a bit extra gas mileage on the highway. That being said, I was shocked (no pun intended) by the improved quality of idle and low-end responsiveness. It also seem much more resistant to stalling (I didn't do any intentional pre/post testing to specifically check this), to the point that it seems like it will recover from impossibly low RPMs and just keep on going. All in all I was pleasently surprised. Would I go out and spend $300 on a new MSD unit? Nope. Would I recommending picking up a used one for $50-$75, or an inexpensive unit from another manufacturer? Sure!

Cost of shipping should do it, maybe a few bucks for a six-pack of cold ones :cheers: They're attached to the unit bearings, I can't remember if they are in good condition or not. The u-joints i would replace as well, at least one I remember was sticky. I can dismantle the whole thing and just send the shafts, which I imagine would be much cheaper. I also have my original '91 CAD D30 shafts still sitting in the axle. Or, if you're ever in the upstate NY area or down near Boston you could grab whatever you wanted.

Not a stock 4x4 leaf that's for sure. Here's a side-by-side pick of a standard duty 4x4 and MT spring. I'm pretty sure it's not a 2x4 spring either as I'm fairly certain they had the same setup as the standard duty 4x4 spring but with a lower rate.

You my friend have found the holy grail. I've got a spare set of 297x one-piece axles if you want to go the rebuild route, but I'd agree it's probably not worth it if the spring perch is rusting away.

I went with SKF BR930014, $104 from RockAuto (see my thread here). Seem like a quality piece. I was tempted to go cheaper but it's not a part I want to skimp on. Hopefully will be good for 100k miles.

It could happen, yes. But as mentioned, it's unlikely. In any case, if you determine the threads are in fact stripped, you can get a "helicoil" or other brand insert to repair the thread, either by bumping up to the next size or using an insert to keep the stock thread size (best way to do it IMO). If you are slow and careful, you can do this without removing the head. Cheap, fast, easy! There are special inserts for sparkplug application so be sure to get one of those and not the regular thread repair!

I love the bench too, very interested in your swap.

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