jeepcoma

This has been a real bugger of a job. :fs1: Time for some good Cobalt bit sets. Looks pretty good. Nice and thick. Rolled edges front and rear. Pretty nice welds, some spatter. Swiss cheese. And some crappy phone pics to round this out. I buggered up one of the threads on the framerail mount (after I had fixed it) so I still need to drill and tap that up to the next size. But, it's in there.

I went with the same unite you posted, the RuggedRidge/Omix-Ada. I actually just used the part number search (12035.60) and bypassed the vehicle selection; I believe it's only listed for the Cherokee in their database.

That looks pretty good. Any supporting vendors here carry that or something similar? Went with RockAuto for under $150 shipped, seemed to be the cheapest around with the discount and I've bought tons of stuff from them over the years. Ugh, expensive week already. Tires for the Camaro, rack and pinion for the Camaro, x-member for the Comanche... :roll: :eek:

That looks pretty good. Any supporting vendors here carry that or something similar?

Happy Easter everyone. Yesterday after the oil change I had the bright idea to finally replace the transmission mount since I had bought a spare about a year ago. What a mistake that turned out to be! When I saw a missing nut on the mount's screw and a sheared bolt holding the x-member I should have called it a day and saved the project for a better time. Undaunted though I forged onwards and there was considerable carnage (or is it truckage?). I could not get the nuts off the bottom of the mount. They were stuck real good and incredibly rusty (you may recall from my project thread, this has been a consistent issue with my truck) so they just rounded right off. I thought then I would unbolt the four large bolts on the transmission that hold the top of the bracket, and one of those sheared off and of course the two inner ones I could not reach with the sockets and did not have enough torque with the wrenches. So then I went to unbolt the x-member from the body, the driver's side went pretty well but the passenger's side was a complete disaster, all but one of the bolts sheared off. With the x-member now loose from the body but the rubber mount still attached, I was able to get in with the sawzall to cut enough of the rubber mount away so that I could wedge it out of the way enough to get the socket on the last two transmission bolts and remove the entire x-member/mount/bracket assembly. Whew, with that out it was time to go to town on freeing the mount. That took a long time and many dremel cutting discs. And unfortunately I discovered there's a ton of rot on the x-member itself, which will need replacement as soon as I can get a spare. No pics since I was in a huge rush to get this back together. I was able to attach the new mount to the bracket, attach the bracket to the transmission, and then stick the x-member back on the body. It's secured with what I have left of the hardware: one nut on the passenger's side (there's actually what seems to be a study poking down, not sure if this is normal or what's been buggered up by previous owners/mechanics) two bolts on the driver's side, there's also a third but whatever it threads into broke off so it was just spinning in place one nut holding the mount to the x-member three bolts securing the bracket to the transmission So obviously I have a lot of fixing to do here this week, hopefully it's at least strong enough to veeeeeerrrry carefully drive. I'm guessing I'm not the only one that's run into this, are there any recommended repairs? I was thinking I would just drill the bolts out of the body and then feed nuts down from the top, get everything in place and a tad of j-b weld to help keep them from moving for later uninstall. I'm not sure if there's enough clearance to do that for all 8 holes though (I didn't have much time to inspect). The transmission should be an easy fix, and I just need new bolts for the mount. Stainless and anti-seize all the way. Are there any "better" replacements for the x-member or can I pull one from any clean XJ? The worst part is, once I got the new mount in, it didn't seem any different than the one I replaced! :doh:

What?! Noooo.... :rotf:

Unpacked today after work, please enjoy the pics. "Where you goin? NO where!" Built to last I hope. Some grease in the handle assembly. The saddle is massive. As soon as I opened the box these two bugs landed on it and started making out. Who knew made in USA jacks had that effect? :dunno: The guts. Casters seem nice. Not sure if that's a geaseable spot, will have to check the manual. The front wheels are for sure though (see the saddle pic). The handle. Already some grease inside. Test lift! Drum roll please. Here we go, maiden voyage! Look ma, no hands! First of many battle scars. Quality vs Craftsman wreckage. The silver jack in the middle is rated at 3 tons and the others at 4. I'll trust the Milwaukee to actually lift 4. First impressions? It's quality you can see and feel throughout. Despite weighting more than the old 4-ton, it feels like less weight. Why? The handle is so solid and sturdy it just moves the jack without flexing, and the T-handle aids so much with maneuverability I never would have believed it without trying it. The wheels and casters are just better; smoother and stronger. Jacking up was a piece of cake, and letting it out was smooth as butter. There was no "jumping" or "grittiness" that I was used to from every jack I've ever used before, just silky smooth release. The entry price was steep, but now that I've had a chance to see and use it, I would buy it again if I had to. And really, I wish I had bought it long ago. It's really that nice. Note to others deciding between the Model 20 (or comparable) vs the Model 40. I ended up choosing the 40 for the main reason that I felt I could do more with it. The 20 would be sufficient for my needs today for sure, but I'm sure I'll end up with a big heavy truck for towing horses and such in the future. So, the 40 will have more potential future applications. The main drawback to the 40 is the size, but then again the 20 is not really a low-profile jack, so neither fits that category. What I figured I would give up on the high end with the 20, I would not regain with the low end. So, if I need two good jacks, I'd end up with the 20 and a low-profile or the 40 and a low-profile, so I figure I'm better covered all-around with the 40 for now and if I need a low-profile later on in life so be it, I won't regret having the 40. Plus, I just wanted it. So there.

Picked up my Milwaukee Model 40 today. Haven't even had a chance to unload it yet but will put it to use this weekend.

Yeah it's a bummer. I'm really disappointed in the Craftsman brand and how it has been ruined over the years. I will not buy another thing from Sears anymore. If it's going to be made in China, might as well get it from HF and save the money (plus, some of their stuff is actually good quality; check out the pass/fail thread on garagejournal). But really, if it's a tool worth having and using frequently, it's worth saving for and getting something nice from the USA (or pick your brand/country of choice).

If you want a PC interface you might want to check out http://www.cleverscope.com/products/ More expensive but I've no doubt it's worth it over that other turd. Buy the best equipment you can afford, it's always worth it. It will be far more capable and accurate, and resell better. Quality doesn't cost, it pays! I'd also consider calling around local universities and labs and such and see if they have used equipment for sale. You might be able to get a good deal on a nice piece of hardware. It'll probably be ancient, but built to last; most of the equipment I ever used was. Check out http://www.eevblog.com/ for reviews and such, I'm not sure he's done anything on entry level equipment but I don't read most of the reviews so maybe you'll find something up your alley. Plus lots of good general EE material.

You can have my stock swaybar if you need it, though you'd have to pay for shipping. I think I've got the stock trackbar too; the end is junk but the bar is straight.

Overall it's excellent and well worth the time and money I spent (well, I could have gotten by without a few things, but live and learn). The stopping power is ferocious, even with my crappy tires. As for the adjuster, I quickly adjusted it to max and have not touched it since. Honestly I'm a bit dissapointed but I haven't lost hope yet, I've just been too busy. When I redid the pads and wheel cylinders and drums in the back, I never spent the time to properly adjust the shoes and have not yet done it yet. With absolutely 0 load in the bed, I have not had the rear brakes lock, even in the snow, though I didn't exactly try to make it happen (on dry pavement, yes, I tried). So I know I need to spend the time to adjust properly, I know there is excessive travel before the rears engage, I just haven't had the time or desire to make the effort yet, and it's really good as is with no load and since I haven't hauled anything heavy yet it's just been low on the list of priorities. I've kept the 10-psi bias in there, though I don't think it really matters at this point (at least, not until I get the back adjusted properly). I'm not really sure what I was expecting when I put it in, it was really more of a "hey this is inexpensive I might as well do it and not wonder about whether I'm missing out" kinda thing. My real hope is that, with a load, it would make braking more consistent as there should be some residual pressure left in the line to keep the pads returning to a more consistent point than just relying on the springs alone (since now there is some counter tension from the lines instead of just falling back to the adjuster). Reality? Probably not, but as I'm not about to remove it to do back-to-back testing, I will blissfully in my ignorance conclude that it's doing the job. The instruction manual said to do it this way. Actually, I think it said to do it as close to the MC as possible, which in my book is before the adjuster. You are correct on that they are for identifying purposes. I looked inside and the inlets were identically sized, and in fact the lines are the same too, so there is no purpose other than to keep from mismatching the lines up. To answer your first question though, I am not actually positive if I hooked them up backwards or not. Given the inability to lock the rear, it's possible I switched them, but I'm not going to conclude that until I get the adjustments done properly. I was operating under the notion that the rear port is for the front brakes, and the front port for the rear, since that's how every MC I've worked with is set up, but since they switched the MC from SAE to Metric who knows, why shouldn't that be backwards too? When bench bleeding you could easily tell that the two ports engaged at different rates, so if my rear brakes don't improve after setting up perfectly I'll probably get some more line and try swapping them. Or I could do actual research but that's crazy talk. From memory, the switch was attached to the pedal sort of on the top and towards your leg rather than the firewall, and not directly actuated by the rod. Since the rod put the pedal in the same position as before the swap, the switched just kept working the same way. Maybe this changed in '91? I can snap some pics tomorrow if it helps.

Next house I buy will have one ;) . Or better yet, a real garage with a full lift. I hate working in the middle of my driveway!

Hey Don, what do you have going on for exhaust there? :hijack: Mine is getting really crusty looking after all the winters so I'm planning on having to redo it once it springs a leak somewhere. I have been thinking about what I want but would love to see some ideas and actual successfully completed routings. My Camaro has a two-out-the-left system and I was thinking it'd be cool for the MJ to have 2OTR to match, but due to cost will probably just wind up with a slash-cut stainless single pipe, mild muffler (Dynomax superturbo?) and stainless mandrel bends all the way up to the header all in stock diameter (2-1/4?).

Mine definitely rides nicer with weight in the back (especially with the MT springs), so it sounds plausibe in theory. Realistically though, how much could you actually get in there? I'm trying to visualize the volume and don't really see being able to add more than 20 pounds; probably half that if the pipes are of decent thickness. Better off just stacking the bags in the bed.

Nothing against HF, they carry some decent (ball joint service tool, 3/4" socket set) or even genuinely good stuff (6-ton jackstands, hi-flow air tool connectors, brand-name stuff like USA-made Goodyear air hoses). But I'm not looking for a disposable jack, I've probably gone through half a dozen and if I'd just bought quality to start with I would have ended up saving money. If I needed something in a pinch I wouldn't hesitate to get the cheapest one they make in order to get through the job but I am buying to last here. NONE of the generic china-made jacks you can walk into a big store and buy are repairable or rebuildable. Seems like you have to special order anything good these days, ever the local hydraulic shops near me didn't have anything decent that they don't have to order for you. Sad to say but if I get a premium jack it will likely outlast my MJ. Crap tools are just acquaintances, here one day and gone the next, but good tools become old trustworthy friends...

At some point one of the previous owners removed the transfer case and gas tank skid plates and I'd like to replace them. It's for a 91 LWB, AX15/NP231. Rusty is OK, as long as they are solid. Unless you're local, would need shipping to 02886. Let me know what you've got!

What do you all like? My Crapsman "4 ton professional" took a dump so I'm looking around for a replacement. The Milwaukee Hydraulics model 40 is really tempting, but I'm also looking at the Hein Werner 3-ton or AC Hydraulics DK20. Thoughts/comments/suggestions? Don't bother suggesting anything from China. I don't care that your bro-in-law's friend bought a $50 jack from Harbor Freight 20 years ago and uses it every day and hasn't had a problem. "Quality doesn't cost, it pays". When it comes to motorcycle tires and jacks, price be damned, my life is worth a lot more.

Wow! :clapping: Just read that start to finish after not having seen it before. Very impressive and it looks like it was a great experience! I have to admit, I really got a laugh out of the fact that you ran out of money at the entry fee. :rotf: I would have been done at day 1!

+2, just go to autozone and get the green colored "armour guard" brake lines, which stand up real well to salt and road use. You'll need SAE fitting, 3/16". To do it yourself, you need to double-flare the lines and it's not worth the hassle to buy the tools and practice and get it all right for just one line. You can bend by hand but just be careful, gently give it some large radius bends ("guide" it rather than "bend") to avoid crimping or kinking the line at the bends, and you'll be fine.

Seems like every time I fix one thing leaking, there are now two leaks to fix. Ugh, I just want this Jeep to work for once! Almost there, "just a few more things" to fix. First up is the stock D30 pinion seal. Looks like the seal is the same as the D44. Cool! While I'm at the seal, I might as well replace the yoke in case it's pitted or damaged. I can't remember the u-joint series I need though or the spline count of the D30 (ok, I'll be honest, I didn't forget, I never really knew). Yoke options: "fine spline", 1310 series, 3.219" snap ring span, 1.062" cap diameter (2-4-8091-1X) 26-spline, 1310 series, 3.219" snap ring span, 1.062" cap diameter (2-4-8091X) 26-spline, 1330 series, 3.625" snap ring span, 1.062" cap diameter (2-4-3581-1X) 26-spline, 1330 series, 3.625" snap ring span, 1.125" cap diameter (2-4-6111X) I'm pretty sure I need the 26-spline 1310 but some confirmation would be great before I order (though I suppose I could call them :nuts: ). Reading through this all after typing and triple-checking RRP's site, I think the first two are identical with the exception of strap vs u-bolt (since they are also listed as YY D44-1310-26S and YY D44-1310-26U), which makes me feel better. 8091X also takes u-bolts instead of the strap, so I'd need 2-94-28X and YMS5778 for the seal. Any problems or recommendations with the above selection? I already used Randy's Ring and Pinion to do the same repair for my D44 (and "upgraded" to u-bolts) so I figure I will order from them again. Second problem is the AX-15 is leaking out the rear seal (probably nicked it when I pulled the d-shaft to fix the pinion seal!). I'm not sure what this is technically called, but I found National part 223253 at listed for AX-15 4x4 (there is a different part listed for AX-15 2x4). Any better brand seals to go with? Is replacement as straightforward as doing the axle pinion seals (pry out, pound in)?

+1, easy to pull and check, take a drive with it removed. 3 ujoints and the centering yoke can fail, plus play in the slipjoint, means lots of things to go wrong; I've been having vibe problems with my front DS and two replacements so far.

I got mine from C2C. They only make outers, if you're inners need fixing you'll have to do it on your own. The C2C rockers were pretty good but are not "plug and play" like OEM replacement parts, at least according to my body shop.

Only by way of the fact that the springs are stiffer and so the weight of the bed compresses them less. It does not change the spring travel or anything like that though, meaning it won't go higher or lower than the stock non-MT springs. It will just ride higher for any given payload, which will make it look like a small lift, especially if your old springs were worn and sagging.

Funny thing is, the Prius is my boss's car. :ack: