jeepcoma

True, but not for the Hell's Creek MT springs :thumbsup: I should have made that more clear in my post I was referring specifically to the HC springs.

The thing to remember about the lift you get from MT springs is that it's a result only due to the higher spring rate. Dimensionally they are the same as the non-MT springs, so they won't chage the travel characteristics at all. They will top and bottom out at the same height, it just takes a different weight to do it. For what it's worth, I went with stock rear shocks. Eventually I upgraded the front to ZJ springs to give it a bit better balance when unloaded (which is most of the time). While you're doing the springs, take a look at the shackles. If the springs were that bad I can't say I would want to trust the shackles at full MT loads. I went with JKS shackles when it was time to replace mine and am happy with them. Even though they are rated at 2200 lbs, they feel like they could easily handle twice that before you'd notice it and crusty shackles arent worth betting on.

Passed inspection :clapping:

Awesome, thanks for that link. I've been looking for the same emissions stuff for a while too, after breaking one of the valve cover elbows. Anyone know of a coupon code?

OK, lots of questions so far on the correct booster/MC to get :hmm: . Consensus seems to be that some are direct fits, some are direct with a spacer, and some require rod and/or firewall modification. Will have to keep digging into this. I'm mainly interested in the rust-resistance. A rusty floor is one thing but a rusty flaking brake line is no fun. I'm also set up with the MT springs to haul a decent amount of weight so I want my lines to be up to the job, and not have to worry about them bursting in a panic stop. If I get long-lasting AND high quality out of it at the same time (for a reasonable price), it's win-win. Beats doing the job again in a few years. I'm just not sure yet what sizes, lengths, and fittings I need yet. Got the tools (arrived last night, yippie!), and my goal is to eliminate the existing proportioning valve (see concerns RE: rusty flaky brake lines) and replace it with a manually remote adjust unit. I want to keep the ability to increase the rear bias when hauling a load, but not lock them up when it's unloaded. I think something like this is what I need, as it would replace the existing distribution block and allow me to control bias: It's a rolling tube bender, makes nicer bends than the fixed units. A bit more pricey but I should get lots of use out of it (same with the flare tool really). The bending pliers are only "meh" quality. I got them mainly in case I need to tweak something on the truck and can't get to it with the good benders. It does pinch the line and leave a mark (bad if you have coated lines), but handy in a pinch (ha ha) none the less. The pinching might be fixable with some light sanding, build quality isn't that great and you can visually see were it doesn't align the way it should. Good to have on hand for $18 though.

It would be helpful to know what you're trying to do exactly, since a parts list might be vague (not to mention huge, if you actually get a FULL list!). There are a lot of parts in an AX-15, are you looking to change the oil or rebuild it, for example. If you're looking for maintenence items, I've started a list in thisthread. Doesn't really apply to the items you've listed but might be good to remember for future repairs.

Brake lines are starting to look scary so the next big project I'm going to tackle is a completely new braking system. I've been doing some searching through the forum but wanted to start a thread to collect my own info and notes and ask questions, maybe it will help others who are doing the same. OK so here's the plan, strip out the existing stuff and start from scratch! My height sensing valve still works but has seen better days, BUT I would like to keep a functioning system for those days that I put the MT springs to work and have a heavy load. I'm thinking the best way is with a remote bias adjuster in the cabin so I can just turn a knob and set it. Has anyone done this or have recommended parts? Not sure of everything I'd need to get, but will probably try to figure this out. While I'm at it and doing all the custom plumbing, I'd like to do the dual diaphragm upgrade. From what I've read, I can just order a new booster and MC for a '99 XJ, and it's a direct swap? Something like this: Any recommendations on brand? When it comes to brakes, I don't want to cheap out, so spending a few extra bucks for a new unit vs pulling something from a junkyard isn't a big deal. $50 for a new MC and $75 for a reman booster seems pretty good. Next up is brake line. I was going to go with stainless but have read a lot about how difficult it is to do properly, problems with work hardening the end if you cut it with a regular pipe cutter, harder to bend and form, harder to flare cleanly. I came across this stuff called Cunifer that's supposed to be very good, easier to work with than stainless but also rust proof. Anyone use it before? I'm also not sure yet how much I need to get, but a kit like thiswith both sizes of line and various fittings seems pretty good. My research has ended here for now though, I need to figure out plumbing and what sizes go where. I think that kit should give me plenty of line to work with and have plenty left over for the next job. I also got some new tools to do the job right :banana:

Floors and rockers are finally fixed, I'll crawl under there tonight and take some pictures. I ordered the floor pans and rockers from Classic2Current. Quality was pretty good, though the shop had some fitment issues. I went with the full length pans (075-46CR and 075-46CL), and they had trouble with the floor braces. The outer rocker panels (070-020) stuck out a bit too far, and also they wished they were longer front-to-rear. I had no inner rockers left and they had to build new ones. All in all it was a very expensive fix (more than I paid for the truck!), but I keep telling myself it was worth it in the long run. Next major repairs are brakes and the bed side panels. I bought some cool tools to do the whole brake job and will do that myself, but will have to take it back to the shop for the bed fix. I think I need to get this done before winter rots the rest of the bed away, but am not looking forward to forking out more cash right now (it'll be $500 just to get the two bedside panels to my door!). But like I said, just focus on the long term picture of bringing this truck back to life... I'm trying to track down a high-speed vibe that wasn't fixed with all the suspension work and alignment. Thought it might be a bad tire since it has that sorta feel to it. So one by one I'm removing a wheel, clean/paint it, and rotating in the 5th tire to see if the vibe goes away. One of the reasons for cleaning the wheels (besides appearance) is to spot problems, it took me a long time to notice my rear seal leaking because the inner wheel was already full of crud. Anyway, while doing this, I discovered the wheel studs on the driver's side were only finger tight! Yikes! Guess they weren't installed with loctite, so I'll fix that up and hope it cures the vibration.

Man's got his priorities straight! How much did that end up costing? I'm real happy with my JCR Offroad bumper, all except for the incorrect receiver hitch tube size.

Spruced up the wheels a little

Looking to fix up my transmission and transfer case, getting a lot of noise, slop, bad synchros, yada yada. Is it worth it to pick up something like this and build it on the side, or just spring for something in better shape? Would be nice to upgrade to the external slave AX-15 and NP242, but I'm not dead set on it or anything. I've removed transmissions but never dug into them, is it something a backyard mechanic can tackle or is it best left to a shop? Thinking about spare up cheap so I can take my time with rebuilding, but not really sure if this is a good idea all in terms of total cost (maybe $100 for a donor, then $450 for the AX15 and NP232overhaul kits), click underlined links to see what I'm referring to. For $600 though I've been seeing good running low mileage stuff with new clutch, but it might be fun to learn how to do this kind of work if it's not brain surgery.

I disagree. Is driving a RWD locked axle different from a modern FWD? Yes, but that doesn't mean it's more dangerous. Does it take more skill to drive well? Absolutely. If you drive it like a FWD and just go hammering the gas all over the place you'll be in for a nasty surprise, but with actual training and practice (the part most people skip), it's not "death waiting to happen". You learn how it works, how it reacts in different situations, when to gas, when to coast, and what not to do. I HATE open rear ends in the snow, once you learn how to drive it an LSD or locker of some sort is way more predictable and controllable. I've never had an unintentional skid or spinout, in all my winters. A locker is even more consistent than an LSD, since it's operation is pretty much black and white: if you're on the gas, it's locked. In 2WD, the front locker disengages and acts like on open (I don't even think it'll ratchet if you've got the CAD working since the pass. side axle will be free to spin with the driver's side). In the rear it's pretty invisible too, but you'll squeak and squeal the tires when powering through tight turns. If I had to pick, I'd go with locking the rear (unless it's a D35 probably). You'll use it all the time that way. If I had a 242 transfer case or was worried about my winter driving skills, or really only want it for offroading use, I'd put it in the front.

How much for that tailgate handle? :brows:

Wow that's a beauty, Olympic Edition?

Is that an AMC Eagle off to the right there?

I'm very happy with my Aussies. They are a monster in the snow, last year with all the snow we had I drove to work every day in it, and didn't end up using 4x4 once (with the front locked too, let me tell you it's a whole 'nother world of awesome). And I've just got plane-jane all season tires, nothing fancy there.

Has anyone gotten one of these lately? Comments on fitment and quality? I need to fix my bed and the body shop recommended a whole patch panel rather than just trying to fix the existing rust.

Drove it home FINALLY :banana: :cheers: Brought it in 4th of July weekend for some serious repairs to the floor and rocker panels and it was finished and paid for TODAY! More details and pics later but just glad to have it back! So now I can start looking for the replacement rugs and bench. Oh and the bed sides are rotting away still so that needs a fix or replacement, plus total underside rustproofing before the winter. And the slack in the drivetrain didn't fix itself, or the shuddering when letting the clutch out from a stop. Plus all those engine gaskets and harmonic damper I bought three months ago and haven't had a chance to install yet. New clutch, new flywheel, new... wait! This sucks!! :fs1: :doh: Always glad to have a Jeep project to look forward too. :cheers:

Here's the Canberra dish you are thinking of.

Is that the quick ratio box? Looking to sell it now that you don't need it? :brows:

I keep a 1911 .45, a round ball .45, and a .357 mag on my side of the bed, wife keeps the 16-ga semi-auto on hers. Oh and a gigantic flashlight, which is also a formidable weapon in the right hands (both from the blinding light and weight should I use it as a club).

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :clapping: Brilliant. That's sad and funny at the same time.

"Slippery" to me means dirt, sand, or rocks. I would never, ever use 4x4 on pavement, except if I was stuck in the snow. You do not want to use it continuously unless it's around-town speeds and the entire road is covered with snow. I disagree that 4x4 in the rain will help maintain control. It won't help you steer, stop, or avoid hydroplaning. It won't give you more traction. In fact, it might enourage you to drive faster than road conditions warrant due to overconfidence. 4x4 is useful for propelling you forward only, which is good for getting unstuck from snow.

Looks nice, I almost ended up with a '91 the same color with a matching bed cap. I still haven't decided if I like the color or hate it! -I had to turn the ignition two or three times before it would engage the starter. Wiring? Fuseable links? Ignition cylinder? Could be, but try starting it in neutral and see if it goes away. Or, if you're able, when you turn the key and nothing happens, hold it there in the "start" position and jiggle the shifter, then shift to neutral. Could be the safety switch. -It sounds like a wheel bearing is going out, or it could be a sticky caliper/dragging pads. Is there anything else that would sound like a bearing that it could be? How bad are the bearings to replace on these? There are 5 ujoints in the front (3 in the driveshaft, one each on the axles), if any of those are worn you could be hearing that. Removing the front d-shaft is easy and a quick check to see if it's the problem. If you end up replacing the axle joints, you might as well swap in the later year thicker shafts/joints and replacing the hubs. -Has a really high pitched whistle which the owner says the dealer said was a hole in the intake manifold. Sounds like a gasket perhaps? Is this common? As you mentioned, it's likely the exhaust manifold. Replacement headers are cheap and plentiful. It should sound different from a constant whistle though (which I'd think to be vacuum leak, like from the intake manifold) and be more like a tick-tick-puff-puff kinda sound that would change as the engine warms up and as RPMs change. A vacuum leak would be far more constant; try sticking a vacuum gauge on it.

That's a good point. BUT, if you really love the truck and want to keep it for a few years, eventually something will go wrong, and it would be useful to already have someone familiar with the truck and know a few good mechanics in your area. Finding a mechanic and paying someone to work on your truck would then be part of the learning process. For $8k, you have a lot of options. If the truck you have now is overall in good condition (rust wise, engine is nice) and it has the major features you want like the transmission, bed length, etc, I vote for restoring it; you shouldn't be spending much more than $2-3k to get it back in nice condition. If you really want a 4.0, or a later HO model, or a metric tonne packager or something, then like Walkenvol suggested, get the truck of your dreams somewhere in the country and you'll have money to fly out and drive it back if you want (or have it shipped).