jeepcoma

I thought long beds were only made in 86 with a v6. :dunno: In '86 the MJ came only with a longbed. The shortbed was introduced in '87 and from then on you could get either SB or LB combined with any of the available options (4x4, trim lines, etc). I think though the "Big Ton"/"Metric Tonne" and towing packages were only offered in the LB platform, but I could be mistaken.

Thought I would merge a few of my random threads into my build thread. I created a Part Number thread which contains info on pretty much everything I've replaced. I just finished installing all the following replacement parts, except the ZJ swaybar and the rear driveshaft u-joints (I need to pick up some new straps and bolts first): Front: * ACDELCO 45U0114 Front Axle U-joints (upgraded one-piece shafts w/ 297x joints) There's some confusion on ball joints needed depending on the year of the axle. I'm not sure what's different or what happens if you install the incorrect one. Check out this thread for some part numbers. I chickened out and spent the extra money on the adjustable ball joints which are a universal fit. * MOOG K3137T (Pre-'90)/K3161T ('90+) (nonadjustable lowers) OR K7403 (universal year, adjustable lower); K3134T Ball Joint (upper) * MOOG K3176 Track Bar Bushing * ACDELCO 509610 Steering Damper * MIDMG21102 TenFactory Axle Tube Seals * SKF BR930014 Wheel hubs * Trackbar - Moog DS1235 * Tie Rod - OMIX-ADA #1805208 Rear axle stuff: * Ten Factory Motive Gear MG22135 chromoly axles, studs, bearings, and seals kit * Crown Automotive Retainer #CRO83504190 * Brake Shoes - RAYBESTOS 481PG 10" x 2.5" * Brake hardware kit - CARLSON H7149 To swap in the ZJ sway bar: * MOOG K3171 26mm swaybar bushing (I'm hoping I got the right size) * MOOG K3150 link bushing (I also hope i don't need longer links) Pics later! Next major to-dos are seeing if I can fit up the LT1 electric cooling fans and then floorboard/rocker rust repair.

Link seems to work :thumbsup: It's just a "static" spreadsheet though, but I'm unfamiliar with the sheet you uploaded so I'm not sure if it's working "right" (as in, the way you wanted it to). Seems to be consistent with an HTML spreadsheet though.

:fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Curse you Sir Sam!!!!

Cool. Said I had to request access though. Did you set that up intentionally? FYI to others, you'll need a google account to access this.

No, it doesn't take shells, though it can either be loaded handloaded with pellets (difficult since they need to be contained, but it can be done) or conversion cylinders do exist to allow you to shoot .45 LC cartridges (which is kinda neat but sort of defeats the point of a BP revolver) of which you can buy shot-shell ammunition. It's actually propped up with a spent 16-GA shell from my wife's antique Browning A-5 semi-auto shotgun ("sweet sixteen" model), but that's another toy for another time :D

My latest, a Ruger .457 ball muzzleloading blackpowder percussion revolver:

Do you just need a brake caliper spreader, or are they already bottomed out against the sides? Hard to tell from your pic, are they too long, and that's the issue? Maybe the calipers don't interchange (I know it's true with later years), you could check part numbers online and see if they match. Also, if you ended up with '87 knuckles, shouldn't you have been using the Moog 3137 joints? The 3161s are supposedly for 90+. How did they fit? Any gaps or spaces?

Sometimes they rust between the nut and the tube and seize together, so that when you loosen the nut the tube twists with it and tears. Not much you can do at that point except fix it (good excuse to get a double flaring tool :cheers: )

Yes, they're actually called flarenut wrenches, they grip more sides of the nut so that it doesn't just round the corners off. I have a craftsman set, but $10 each will get you a double-ended SAE and metricset from Harbor Freight, not bad to have handy in the toolbox for light use and no excuse not to at that price.

I went with the Moogs too. But looking at that $40 set, I'm now curious if I got the correct lowers. That kit lists one part number for years 85-06. Moog lists two part numbers: K3137T (before 1990) and K3161T (1990+). According to this thread, the difference in the two is the amount of taper. It looks like if you screwed up, you can still run the K3137 in the 90+ and it will just have a little gap left, but what about the other way around if you put the K3161T in the application that calls for K3137T? I just ordered parts for my '91 not knowing there was any difference, (always thought all XJ/MJ front axles were identical except gearing and HP vs LP) but my axles are out of an '88 I believe. What is the difference between the FA1633 part and the Moog that FA1633 is a universal part and the Moog isn't?

Check out eevblog, some great info there (not just the reviews, but the comments too are generally chock full of tidbits and experience). $50 shootout http://www.eevblog.com/2010/06/04/eevbl ... -shootout/ buying guide http://www.eevblog.com/2010/04/14/eevbl ... ing-guide/ I think he did a low-buck comparison too at somepoint, just search the multimeter tag.

Aussie for the win! I've found the rear locker to have no issues at all for a daily driver.

Could just be the linkage out of adjustment or a bushing worn, or even just ice and crud causing a blockage. I've had mine jam up, even though the lever would go to 2wd there was so much flex and slop in all the parts that the actual lever on the transfer case wasn't actually in 2wd until I bopped it with a hammer. Since then, I clean off the linkage and give it a shot of lube every time I'm under there to change the oil.

The MT springs are rated for higher capacity, they are a beefier heavy duty unit rather than just a stock spring with different arch. If upgrading from a 2wd stock spring, you will end up with "lift" from doing this swap. IIRC, there's a 1-2" difference between the normal 2wd springs and 4wd springs, but additionally the higher load rating of the MT springs will compress less under the weight of the frame and bed, resulting in some additional height (which won't ever settle, until the springs wear out and sag). Going from 2wd springs to MT springs might net you with 3" lift after all is said and done. The Hell's Creek MT springs are a great kit, but honestly, if you're trying to get by on low cost I think there are better options out there. The MT springs aren't cheap, and if you want to do anything serious cargo hauling you'll need quality ubolts, shocks, possibly shackles if yours are rusted... which will easily add another $150-250 to the price. And that's not even considering the D35 or it's smaller brakes.

Thanks Akula69, I read your post on DW (which inspired me to put this list together actually), and I think I'm ready to order a bunch of stuff to fix up my MJ. I wasn't able to find the $62 Moog trackbar, did you get the DS1235? [*:1ho69tip]Wheel hubs -SKF BR930014 $104 These are the most expensive at $100 bucks a pop, are they worth the extra price (I remember a thread not too long back about a hub going bad and the wheel coming off!) over the Timkins at $80 each? The Raybestos "pro" line is $50, would be nice to save $100 if it's a quality piece. [*:1ho69tip]Trackbar - Moog DS1235 $71 [*:1ho69tip]Tie Rod, steering - OMIX-ADA #1805208 $86 Some of the Moog pieces are out of stock but there's a complete kit by OMIX-ADA #1805208, made for the V8 ZJs, which includes the two ends and the adjustment sleeve. As far as I can tell this should be a direct-fit upgrade over the stock MJ bar, compared to Moog parts ES3096L, ES2079S, and DS1312. [edit] this worked great as an upgrade [*:1ho69tip]Tie Rod, wheel - this is the second part that connects to the driver's side wheel. I picked up a used Rubicon Express Chromoly Heavy Duty Tie Rod RE2600. As for the tie rod ends, there was a bit of confusion. My front axle is from an '88 so I bought those two ends for that year (MOOG ES2223R and ES2221L) but found they didn't really have much thread engagement, maybe about an inch less. So I went in to the store and ordered the units from 91+ (MOOG ES3095R and ES3094L) which are substantially beefier and have a longer threaded portion. I'm not sure what changed in production on the axles but they appear to be 100% interchangeable and a stronger part. Then to swap in the ZJ sway bar: [*:1ho69tip]MOOG K3171 $9 26mm swaybar bushing (pack of two) [*:1ho69tip]MOOG K3150 $7 link bushing (need one for each end-link) Rear axle stuff: [*:1ho69tip]Ten Factory Motive Gear MG22135, for $300 it seems like a good price if it includes everything needed for an axle refresh. [*:1ho69tip]Brake Shoes - RAYBESTOS 481PG 10" x 2.5" (stock D44 size right?). $14 for the pair [*:1ho69tip]Brake hardware kit - CARLSON H7149 $3 cheap insurance to replace springs and those rubber plugs (both of which are missing) [*:1ho69tip]D44 Axle Cover - RuffStuff Specialties 3/8" D44COV + countersunk holes ~$125 shipped with discount code FACEBOOK Transmission: [*:1ho69tip]Transmission mount - ANCHOR 2625 $14; have been getting some clunking and banging when shifting, combines with the shipping locations RockAuto is already doing so might as well have it on hand. Anything I am overlooking or incorrect about? I'm a bit paranoid about ordering the wrong stuff online, especially when it comes to "upgrades" like the Tie Rod. [edit] All the parts fit great, happy shopping using the above edited some part numbers and additional informantion

Yes, you just need to open the red arrow bleeder screw. DO NOT USE AN OPEN END WRENCH ON THIS!! You'll round that puppy right down. Get a set of crow foot nut wrenches if you don't already have one (anyone that's ever worked on brakes should), or use a 6-point socket on the red-arrow bleeder screw and put a box wrench on the green arrow to hold it in place. Crow Foot Wrench, grips on all sides:

My truck is due for inspection and it's going to need some work. A leaking rear axle seal and death wobble in the front make me want to just go ahead and do a complete refresh of everything that wears out (not a bad idea for a 20 year old truck)!! I'm loath to spend money but I want my wife to be safe driving and I want the truck to last for years, so I want to do it right. I have some questions on part numbers and kits and things, but I've already collected a bunch of parts and thought it might be helpful for other people to see a comprehensive list of needed parts, with numbers, prices, and where I found them. So, I'm keeping this list for my own record and will be updating it as I fix things and get new parts. For my rear axle, after reading Hornbrod's thread on Alloy USA, I'm thinking a complete package sounds good (especially after my driveshaft debacle) so I can just drop it off at the shop and they'll have everything needed. It looks like the Alloy 12135 and TenFactory MG22135 are both available for ~$340, and they both contain the axles, studs, seals, and bearings? Are these the right kits for a stock '88 MJ D44 (30 spline?)? Is there anything else I would need? I also have an aussie locker in the rear if that matters. Alternatively, what would I need to refresh the rear, while retaining the stock shafts? RockAuto lists a bunch of separate pieces, but no complete "overhaul" kit or anything. I'd like to do the brake hardware while I'm at it, any recommendations? How about ACDELCO Part # 17481R, on closeout for $13.65? RAYBESTOS Part # H7149 for the hardware kit (springs etc)? What about linings? To fix the death wobble I'd like to replace everything and then get the alignment done. What do I need to replace? I already replaced the control arm bushings and got the Moog upper and lower ball joints, but what do I need for the rest (tie rod ends and trackbar?)? I got a tie-rod from a V8 ZJ which is supposed to be beefier. I have the ujoints, should I be looking to replace the hubs while I'm at it? U-joints and driveshaft: [*:prsl75kg]Front Driveshaft U-joints (stock '91), you need three (for sale if anyone wants) ACDELCO 45U0111 $ 13.18 - RockAuto [*:prsl75kg]CV-52699 Jeep CV Centering Yoke 1310 Series $39.95 -Denny's Driveshaft (for sale if anyone wants) [*:prsl75kg]Front Axle U-joints (upgraded one-piece shafts w/ 297x joints), you need two ACDELCO 45U0114 $ 16.81 - RockAuto [*:prsl75kg]Rear Driveshaft: will have to look up the part number and where I got it, but I went with the Spicer units [*:prsl75kg]A-1 CARDONE 659670 (65-9670) Front Drive Shaft $ 234.79 -RockAuto; I ended up just getting a complete remanufactured unit (which I should have done in the first place) Front Suspension: [*:prsl75kg]MOOG K3161T Ball Joint $ 47.79 - RockAuto, you need two; haven't installed yet [*:prsl75kg]MOOG K3134T Ball Joint $ 41.79 - RockAuto, you need two; haven't installed yet [*:prsl75kg]MOOG K3164 Control Arm Bushing $ 51.89 - RockAuto, full set, only one needed [*:prsl75kg]MOOG K3162 Control Arm Bushing $ 34.79 - RockAuto, full set, only one needed [*:prsl75kg]MOOG K3176 Track Bar Bushing $ 10.63 - RockAuto; haven't installed yet [*:prsl75kg]ACDELCO 509610 (509-610) Steering Damper $ 26.79 - RockAuto; haven't installed yet [*:prsl75kg]Monroe Sensatrack shocks, will have to check on part number [*:prsl75kg]ZJ V8 springs Rear Suspension: [*:prsl75kg]JKS JKS-OGS651 JKS Rear Shackle Kit $89.99 - Morris4x4 [*:prsl75kg]HellsCreek Metric Tonne Springs; bought them direct, be sure to check for the discount! [*:prsl75kg]Monroe Sensatrack shocks, 37029 $52.49 shipped from RockAuto (note, I started with the XJ rear shocks and they worked fine for the stock springs and ride height, but with the stiffer MT springs I was maxing them out over every bump) [*:prsl75kg]Ubolt kit, will have to find details, I bought a beefy expensive set from RuffStuff Specialties to handle the MT loads Various: [*:prsl75kg]GOODYEAR 4060710 Serpentine Belt $ 19.10 [*:prsl75kg]GOODYEAR 4060975 Belt $ 18.59 - This was listed for a 4.0 w/o AC. It turned out to be wrong, since mine had an idler pulley. Use 4060710 instead. For Sale if anyone needs it. [*:prsl75kg]RHINOPAC M0112 Clutch Master Cylinder $ 24.79 - RockAuto nice unit, made of metal, beats the plastic one I replaced edited to update part numbers

Good info, as I'm now tracking down a DW scenario of my own. Funny thing is, I never had DW until I started actually fixing stuff in the front suspension. Once I got around to replacing the UCA and LCA bushings, I nailed a bump on the highway and experienced a horrendous shaking, something akin to a tankslapper on a motorcycle (though I didn't have to change my pants...). Got Moog balljoints, steering stabilizer, trackbar, and some other crap ready to go in. I think I'll take a look at the trackbar first, based on this thread. Sometimes when I'm driving, I think I can feel something "loose" feeling, almost like some piece has slop in it and is knocking around (I can't decide if I'm really feeling that, or if it's just regular bumps in the road that I'm paranoid about now that I've gotten DW a few times). I don't drive on the highway until I get this sorted out, but it sucks that I'll always be wondering "did I really solve it?" or if it's just lying in wait...

I think I'd invest in a good set of tires before thinking of drivetrain replacement. 4x4 won't magically stop you from skidding around in the rain, snow, or ice. It won't help you stop, won't help you turn, and will encourage you to get into situations you otherwise wouldn't have with 2x4 (overconfidence and false sense of security). 4x4 is great for getting unstuck when you decide to try something fun like drive into a huge snowbank or unplowed parking lot (see: overconfidence), but I'd rather trust my life to good rubber than believing 4x4 will solve everything. Not saying you shouldn't convert the Jeep to 4x4, just that I think you are approaching it from the wrong angle and looking for it to solve problems it's not meant to (I think it's no coincidence that I see more "offroad" 4x4s and SUVs and trucks stuck in ditches and snowbanks that I do regular cars, for the same reason). I haven't needed 4x4 once this winter yet, and I've driven to work every single day so far. I like knowing I can get out of a situation if I happen to get stuck, but knowing how to drive and not getting stuck in the first place is key. Wife's Camaro doesn't have that option, but a set of premium winter tires was the best thing I ever did for that car, and we haven't had any problems without 4x4.

This thread helped me: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14645

New front driveshaft installed and 4x4 is fully ready for this week's snow storm!!

Today's my birthday and I got a driveshaft, Moog balljoints, Gatorback belt, and four snow chains! :clapping: Looks like I'll be spending the day under the truck.

It's an unlikely problem, but you should check out the air filter. I had a similar sounding problem with an older Bronco II. After long highway trips in the rain or snow, it would lose power, pop and backfire out the tailpipe, and be a struggle to go 30 mph. Turned out I was slowly sucking water up through the air intak and it was drenching the air cleaner, and as it got wetter it would run richer and richer. After that, every time it rained I disconnected the snorkle that ran to the front of the radiator, problem solved.

OK I think I found them both here: http://quad4x4.com/Jeep%20Driveline.htm Looks like the QU40759 or QU40800 "center yoke" and QU40704 "Outer CV Dust Seal". Not sure I want to go through the hassle of screwing everything up when I could just get one complete and ready to install. Has anyone ever used the A1 Cardone rebuilds (same brand rockauto carries)? I found one for under $200, which seems like a good price considering what I paid for all the parts I already bought. I think I need part 2241-07053124... http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1991/j ... shaft.html