jeepcoma

I replaced my column a while back, I don't remember coming anywhere near the PS components to do it. Under what conditions does it make the noise? Can you turn full lock-to-lock? There's really nothing to tighten up when you do the replacement except, without knowing anything else my guess would be you buggered up one of the steering shaft ujoints when removing the original column. Did you have trouble getting the shaft separated from the column end? I know I did, if you had to pry a lot or use a BFH it's pretty easy to damage those joints.

Depends on what you are willing/able to do in order to get it to fit. The only direct swap is from another MJ, otherwise you'll be looking at moving the perches and such at the very least (I believe this is true for the XJ). Other applications can require lengthening/shortening the housing so that gets real expensive. I've got no fabrication skills so if it were me, I'd be waiting for an MJ housing to show up (which is what I did). Not sure what your budget is, but you should plan to be able to replace all the brake hardware and seals if you're pulling from a junkyard, and maybe even the axles. You might get lucky and not have to deal with it, but be prepared. It's not the cheapest option. A later model form a low mileage XJ is a good alternative if you can move the perches and you pulled it in known working good condition.

I've been talking to Zach from Z&M Jeeps and will be ordering a pair this week! (don't steal mine!) I also tried to contact C2C since I got my floor pans form them, but I never heard back from them either so maybe it's just a rumor.

http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/2651451131.html Thought this looked pretty nice, it's nearby so I can probably check it out for someone if you're seriously interested. I wonder what the spare parts consist of...?

My bike's ignition freezes up all the time in the winter, and this works great for getting the key in and the ignition turned on. Not so great once you reach your destination and the key is frozen in the "on" position. :roll: When I get to work I have to shut off the engine with the kill switch, run inside to get some hot water from the coffee machine, run back outside, then carefully pour the hot water over the exterior of the ignition cylinder (careful not to get any more water down the key hole!) to unfreeze it. Fun times. I'm thinking of upgrading to a keychain minitorch so I can just blast that sucker. That, or actually cleaning the water out of the cylinder...

Isn't there also a Metric "Tonne" badge as well in later years? :hmm:

I had the same issue, I was using XJ rear shocks which was fine with the regular springs but the extra uncompressed height after the MT springs was too much. I too was on a budget and went with the MJ Sensatracs for the rear, and I haven't had a problem since. Some useful info for you: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20179&p=206085&hilit=monroe#p206085 I'll also add it to my part number list: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28479&start=0&hilit=monroe My advice is to buy a real good set of rear shocks, and keep an eye out on craigslist for the matching front pair (which interchanges with the XJ so they are plentiful). $200 should be plenty for a quality set. It's a snap to swap them too, just be careful not to overtighten on the rears or you'll twist the stud right off the frame!

Wow even back in 87 they couldn't spell Comanche right.

Thanks for that, it was one of the units I found with a pic of the spacer. I ended up buying the Cardone unit due to price and will work something out. I'll measure first and see what I need to do, and also try and find out if I can order the spacer from some source. More to come!

My build sheet said: P215/75R15 OWL All Terrain Tires Michelin Brand Tires 15X7.0 Styled Steel Wheels All Steel Wheels

That's cool. Would make an awesome keychain.

This alas did not have the plate on it. The Omix Ada one on RockAuto appears to have the plate, but I'm not sure I trust the photo. Besides it's $275, so that's out of the question. Don, do you happen to know the PN or brand of the unit you got, or maybe where purchased? All the local stores around here seem to carry the same Cardone unit. Maybe teamcherokee would have the spacer for sale? Here's the Omix unit, Part # 1671805

After I did my rear axle upgrade, I just could not get the rear differential to stop leaking. The rear cover took a hit at some point in its life and mangled the sealing surface at the bottom. The damage area was off to the left side of the bottom, the furthest distance between bolts, and it seemed like no amount of gaskets and/or sealant seemed to work. I ended up getting a heavy duty looking cover from RuffStuff Specialties after reading some threads from all over. I would have gone with a RockCrusher cover (in keeping with the Aussie theme!), but thought this matched the style of the JCR bumper a bit better. Not that anyone can see it, but hey. I know it's there. Simple, plan, functional, and tough. Here it is, arrived today and out of the box. Closeup on welds. Beautiful job, but lots of spatter. Inside cover. Cleanup required! Fill plug from the inside. Mating surface and sidewall. Cleaned up and painted. Should get the chance to install it tomorrow (unless it's raining again), pics will follow. One "bonus feature" I'm wondering if I'll get is reduced gear whine. Would be a nice to quiet it down a bit. An update to all my suspension work, I am STILL getting death wobble. Well, now quite death wobble, but probably could induce shaken-baby-syndrome. Went on the highway the other day to pick up a spare AX15/NP231 so I would work on one over the winter, and had it happen TWICE in about one mile, only at around 60 mph. Just picked up a ChroMo tie rod and Moog ends, the last thing that I can possibly replace (except the wheels/tires which I haven't ruled out yet but am trying to isolate by rotating the wheels), then back to realignment. I'm not confident on the current specs, the firestone shop "forgot" to do the before and after printout when I last took it in. I'm guessing they didn't want to bother doing the ball joint adjustment since I was the last one for the day.

I wonder about the fitting size of the AN-3 connection vs the 1/4 tube. Just by eyeball it looks like the AN- connector is vastly undersized. How does this affect pedal travel/feel? I'd think it would increase pedal feel (pressure), and maybe increase the length of travel required to get full disengagement? I'll admit, fluid mechanics was never something I really learned in school. :hmm: Reason I ask is that I'm soon to be replumbing my entire brake system. One thing I've been reading is that it's best to keep 1/4" line on the main line to the rear brakes, and then split to 3/16. Disc brakes are fine with just 3/16". Reason being is that the larger line works better for drums, which require more travel, and the greater amount of fluid works better. What I've seen here seems to contradict this, so I have some learning to do. :dunno: Is there another bottleneck in the system that makes this a moot point?

You don't get much fuel savings with EFI either, only carbs. Most (not actually sure about the HO or Renix programming) EFI engines shut off the fueling when coasting and other certain conditions. Even though the engine is "on" while coasting, no fuel is being used (meaning, you actually use less fuel coasting in gear than by putting it in neutral). A carb on the other hand meters fuel whenever there is airflow, so yes you'd technically be using gas with the throttle closed and going downhill.

C2C also makes the combined front and rear pans for each side. I went with these. I don't have the fab skills so I had my body shop do it, they had a he'll of a time (also had them do C2C outer rockers and they had to make the inner ones). I couldn't find a single entire pan that covered the front, real, and trans tunnel either. 1986-92 Comanche Half Floor Pan, LH 075-46CL 1986-92 Comanche Half Floor Pan, RH 075-46CR

I ordered a bunch of emissions stuff last week, just arrived today.

You mean this guy? http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... 1&catid=95 What kind of driveline problems was the bad mount giving you?

I scored a '91 AX15/NP231 for $50! :clapping: Best score I've gotten in a long time. Was originally looking to do the external slave upgrade, but I just don't care that much. Doesn't seem like the internal slave is that big a deal. Anyway, now I've got a fall (...winter/spring/next summer...) project. Er, another project. Pics in the morning when it's not dark and raining. I didn't get to do much inspection, but nothing was obviously broken. I plan to replace the internals for both units so it looked good to me for the price.

Thanks Don. I ordered the MC yesterday, I got CARDONE SELECT Part # 133180. It has 12x1.0 and 10x1.0 brake line fittings so unless it comes with hardware, I'll be ordering P/Ns M8-4 and M1-3 from FedHill (or maybe just from auto store, but it's easier to link to them for others to see and I'm happy so far with their product, plus it's right around the corner from me in MA) in order to adapt to the regular 3/16 and 1/4 brake hose. I may also need some other adapters depending on the rest of the components I've got lined up. As far as the booster goes, my local Advance Auto carries the Cardone 54-73152. This I want to get in person to verify the plate is included, and it also happens to work out cheaper than RockAuto! Plus I hate dealing with core charges from e-retailers. Not sure if I can return my '91 booster for the core rebate, but I'll ask. Eagle, the Wilwood part I'm looking at is 260-11179. It's listed as a "Combination Proportioning Valve". The two outputs from the MC go straight into the Front Input and Rear Input lines of the unit. There is one rear output (which also includes the bias adjuster) which I would send to the rear splitter (and include the residual pressure valve 260-1876 in this circuit) on the axle. There are two front outputs, which I would send to each caliper. Am I missing something about needing another block somewhere? :dunno: Keeping in mind that I'm throwing out ALL the stock lines and starting from scratch. :hmm:

Did you buy this new, and the spacer was included? What brand/part number? I might need to check this out at the autoparts store to see in person, shopping online doesn't seem clear whether it's included as part of the booster or not. It sure looks like it's there, but internet pictures from a catalog aren't always 100% reliable... Of course I can always grab one from a junkyard but I like to have everything on hand first. I'm going to have to plan all this work for a nice long weekend and don't want to get half-way through only to get stuck on a missing part (I hate that!)

Parts and tools arrived, yippie! As far as hardware, I'm leaning towards the Wilwood combination distribution block/bias adjuster, but I'd like the rears to accept the 1/4 brake line so I can run that to the back and then split into 2x 3/16 to each wheel. I think I'll also plumb the 10lb pressure holder into the rear circuit. The hardest part of the process is figuring out what connectors and sizes everything takes, some descriptions are lacking at best. Frustrating!

Right, my bad, I meant I was seeing some for $200+ and don't want to pay that high a price. I don't really do much offroading either so for me it's essentially a maintenance/cosmetic piece/piece of mind for when I do go offroad. The cover had a nice dent already when I got it (thanks Twisty!) and had been holding oil OK before, but have had problems the past few times I've needed to remove it. I'm not too worried about failure out on the trail but am sure sick of the leak. $65 seems pretty good, just looking for some feedback and trying to convince myself I need to spend $130 for the beefy RSS cover :brows: I think I'd be able to put a CC logo on that nice flat space somewhere so perhaps that's a good reason.

Yeah would be nice, but I don't think I'll need to change it that frequently that removing the cover will be a holdup. The RuffStuffSpecialtes looks nice too but is 2x the price. :eek:

My D44 got smashed on a rock and I'm having trouble getting the cover to seal properly, despite good cleaning, flattening, and filing down of high spots. New gasket, new sealer this weekend, and it's dripping again. Any recommendations for a replacement cover? I could get a regular stock cover for not too much but maybe I should get something tougher while I waste another two quarts of gear oil. How about something like this? Price seems pretty good at $65. Can't really say I want to pay for a high price item. Or, anyone got something for sale?