Pete M

excellent! I was wondering how well that would work.

space is limited, but they are auto-shrunk to save said space.

I've seen the center caps on ebay. even an NOS set, although they wanted real money for it.

weight plus leverage. the taller the tires, the higher the forces. I ran 33s on my 44/9 because I needed to drive it home too. giant tires are just headaches to me. I don't need any more of those. but anyway, the best part of the superduty axles is that they are showing up in the pull your part yards. $150 for a dana 50/60 axle? yes please! the key is being fast. if you have a Pull-a-Part or LKQ yard near you, they will send emails when a new whatever hits the yards.

have you applied power to the horn to confirm that it works? I had the same issue on my 88 way back when, and it turned out the issue was due to the horn being... missing.

that's awesome! I've never seen one like that. do you have a closeup of the circle window? it looks like there's an image or pattern in it.

yeah, except that... have you seen the rest of this insanely complicated setup in a CRD? pretty sure mine runs on a combination of voodoo and sheer will power.

it can help turn on a tight trail (I did it once by unlocking a hub), but as soon as the tires jam up, the posi-lok jams too and so you kinda have to know ahead of time when you want to do it. Honestly I would grab another (non CAD) front axle. but it depends entirely on what you want to do with the truck.

I honestly can't recall someone asking this question yet.

you might want to post that Q in the pub so more eyes will see it.

our hobby is fixing up old Jeeps. Old Jeeps have a hobby too, and that is thwarting us at every turn. My Jeeps are particularly good at it.

if you edit the post, you can drag the photos around. I don't use a Mac, but with Windows I simply drag the photo from my desktop and drop it into the text box.

my connection looks like a standard one. no bleeder there.

don't discount the super duty axles just yet. more beef is better with 37s

Just found out the sticker dude is at KOH this week (lucky!), so next week we'll see what he can do.

oh my. it would seem they welded it up. that would explain the issues with turning.

running 37s on a tight budget can be... challenging. doubly so if you're relying on someone else's welding. But then again, I built mine with a drill, $10 grinder, and a $70 harbor fright stick welder that couldn't weld squat. I tacked things together and hauled them to a local guy to melt it together for good. have you thought about axles from a SuperDuty?

final version. a huge thanks to MoparBrown for lending his skills to this endeavor if there are no other ideas for improvement, I'll send this on to the sticker guy and see what he can do.

welcome to the club! rotors can be redrilled. I have said 9" under the back of my truck (with the matching 44 up front with the stock Ford radius arm suspension). It's nothing special except for the extra pinion bearing and that only matters if you're pushing super high horsepower. and no one can tell me it's invincible as I cracked my diff on a rock. If I had to do it again, I'd just have an Dana 30 up front and a Liberty 8.25 out back (super common, it's a couple inches wider than the stock MJ rear axles, and has disks). what tire and engine combo?

https://comancheclub.com/forum/40-member-projects-other-cool-stuff/

yeah, I've thought about folding ones or those elevated ones (with the bent hitch tube) and that dang spare tire is always in the way. fortunately this bracket dealie keeps the corners from dragging too much. also it's far more stable when I stand on it. I would love for some rounded corners though. those sharp edges really dig into my shins!

you'll need to start a build thread for that Jeep It's required by law or something.

the valve cover gasket is a very common leak and it'll drip down the back of the block and look like an RMS leak. I would check that first. to gain clearance for the oil pan removal you can jack up the front of the truck so the axle drops out of the way. you'll want all the clearance you can get, but it does eventually fit. there's a link to a window seal replacement writeup in the link in my sig. for a 4wheel swap, it's common practice to buy a whole XJ with the drivetrain you want. but this doesn't get you any better gearing. 4.0 + stick = 3.07s 4.0 + auto = 3.55s and they are the most common out there and are a decent upgrade for a stickshift Jeep with stockish tires. car-part.com can help with junkyard searches. be sure to search for multiple years, as any AX-15 can work, but the part numbers changed over the years and the website searches strictly by part number. same thing goes for front axles and t-cases and whatnot. first learn what can be made to work, and then go search for what's out there. rebuilt AX-15s are available out there. 94ish and up will have the external slave. also, WJ control arms are a good upgrade for a stockish Jeep. they are fully boxed, bent inward for tire clearance while turning, same length as MJ arms, better bushing design, and available new. they just need the metal sleeve inside the bushings trimmed flush with the rubber part. if you haven't already, read through the "most important tip" thread at the top of this forum.