all new rubber, all new brakes. I guess it could be one of the calipers.
just swapped tires and pads. no change. doesn't happen every single time. but often enough.
no real change. doesn't happen every time, but from 55mph under heavy braking it still pulls left slightly. I may try swapping pads side to side to see if anything happens. pads and rotors are brand new, so there's no wear pattern yet. maybe tires too?
I pulled the bracket. ran out of daylight to do a proper high speed test drive, but around the block seems to be normal again. we shall see what tomorrow brings.
it's a skyjacker 3" lift with coils, lower arms, and this bracket. looks to be this one: https://www.amazon.com/Skyjacker-JC301K-Lift-Components-Suspension/dp/B000JKM87E
I bought it for like 50 bucks at the junkyard, so I think I did alright.
oh, they are definitely not lined up like factory. the bracket drops the axle end of the bar a bit in order to also scoot it over towards the drivers side to compensate for the need of a longer track bar. I originally thought my front brakes weren't braking the same left to right, but then this popped into my head. but I don't remember anyone complaining of this before.
the upper left bolt is the original hole for the track bar.
under sudden hard braking the truck twitches to the left slightly and the right side of the front dips lower than the left. is this a symptom of bump steer due to the track bar relocation bracket that came with the lift kit?
any other thoughts as to why this might be happening?
chances are that the gap is simply there because AMC was struggling for its very existence and filling the gap was deemed unnecessary to sell trucks. plenty of shortcuts occurred. I mean, there's literal factory duct tape in places.
totally normal for tires to chirp a bit when doing tight turns in AWD there's only so much that the t-case can give to balance the system before the tires will inevitably bind.
if you're looking at any sort of fuel tank repairs, do it ALL. pump, sender, tank, hoses, straps, bolts, all of it. it really isn't that much money and you'll only need to drop the tank once. (hopefully)
have someone saw teh steering wheel back and forth violently as you look for slop in the steering system, especially the track bar at the body side. also check for cracks in the outside of the uniframe between the steering box attachment point and the track bar attachment point.
31s can be run bone stock with some caveats.
one of my favorite build plans:
31s
stock MJ/XJ/YJ/TJ/ZJ/KJ rims (I prefer the 8" wide TJ Gambler or TJ Canyons if going 15, TJ Moabs if going 16)
2" coil spacer
YJ front brakelines (longer than stock if your current ones are 35 years old and you need new ones anyway)
dakota or chevy truck rear brakeline (longer than stock if yours are 35 years old and you need new ones anyway)
new quality 0-3" front/rear shocks
WJ lower arms (same length as stock so good for 2" but have a bend in them to clear bigger tires at full steering lock)
new stock steering parts (except with a v8 ZJ tie rod)