Pete M

You're welcome Eagle! Glad you finally made it over. 8) Jeep on! --Pete

I had a 4x75 rms and a 150x1 rms in the MJ in years past. The amps have migrated over to the Dakota R/T, but the door speakers are still in the MJ (didn't fit the Dak). I cut a hole for the tweeter to set it flush in the door. To this day, that truck had one of the best sound I've ever heard in a automobile. Symphonic and live tracks felt like you were there. :D High quality componants (and the power to drive them) are worth every penny in my book. Since the wind noise on the highway can overwhelm my current reciever-driven system, I think I'll put a small amp back in the MJ to help out. Although the ambiance of my truck can be strangely appealing. I drove 3000 miles to Moab and back this summer and only listened to about 3 hours of music total. :D Jeep on! --Pete

:D :lol: :P :D :lol: :P :D :lol: :P

Is the fluid in your tranny topped off? My 2wd Peugeot would always get cranky when the level dropped (which was every 5000 miles or so due to a leaky rear seal). Jeep on! --Pete

Except that there are dozens of common questions and no guarantee that the next question about swapping seats will be exactly like this one. Feel free to remind everyone that we have a search feature, but I prefer to take each case as it comes in. 8) I've never liked post counts so believe me, if I could get rid of it I would. I don't feel they add anything to the discussions. Jeep on! --Pete

I might be driving down on thursday for a bit of light wheeling on friday. Seems a shame to drive allllll that way for only 1 day. But it depends on both my and my friend Mike's schedules. Jeep on! --Pete

For what it's worth (cause they don't exactly tell if it had a tow package or not) car-part.com has a listing for a Dana 35 with 3.73 gears and ABS. There are only 2 pages of listings (and some of those listings aren't even 3.73, cause junkyard guys aren't apparently all that computer-savy) as compared to 150+ pages of 3.55 geared axles. Jeep on! --Pete Welcome aboard Eagle!! :D

Not necessarily. I don't know what the numbers are for each (I'm stuck down on campus right now). What I meant to say was, XJ perches are further apart than MJs. I can measure mine when I get home tonight. Jeep on! --Pete

XJ perches are further apart. Jeep on! --Pete

Depends on the type of wheeling you do. You don't necessarily have to chop the bed, just build a new rear bumper that tucks up into the body rather than hangs down below. If you build it right, even if you drag it on an obstacle here and there, nothing gets hurt. :D Jeep on! --Pete My shortbed's bumper:

XJ 4 door seats don't lean forward. Power XJ seats do not separate from their tracks. The best seats are non-power 2 door XJ or just get MJ buckets. If you go XJ, I think it's as simple as keeping your bench's floor brackets and bolting them to the XJ seat's frame. Also, bucket MJ/XJs come with a plastic sheath around the female end of the seat belt so it doesn't fall to the floor all the time. And if you go with the full center console, don't forget to snag the metal bracket that attaches the rear of the console to the floor (it'll be screwed to the floor). And if your bench is in good shape, remember to take a picture and see if anyone wants it. car-part.com might help you find some seats. Jeep on! --Pete

Out of curiousity, when you list the amp as being a 75x4, are you refering to Max watts or RMS? I assume RMS and the 1200 number for the sub was Max, but with no labels it's hard to tell sometimes. Jeep on! --Pete

Don't really care for either. I prefer the general "trail" trails, covered with dirt and mud and rocks. Oh and Moab, I LOVED Moab. But I don't see myself getting out there more than once a year, if that. I wish I lived closer than 1500 miles. :( Jeep on! --Pete

3 MJs and not one of them had a leaky master cylinder. I'm starting to think I was just lucky! :D Actually, it's about 6" added in the front of the bed and 6" to the rear. Jeep on! --Pete

Ahhhh. So it's supposed to pop back into shape, exactly how badly did you mangle it? I gotta imagine that once it goes beyond it's "spring-back" point, it'd be a heck of a time rebending it. :D Jeep on! ---Pete

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of actually pulling up the carpet and checking for rust on the floorboards. Water tends to find its way in under the carpet and can't get out. Also, lie down under the truck and especially look at the floorbaords and also up at the inside of the bed sides (i.e. the inside surface of the outer sheetmetal). Rust tends to start there too and it's practically impossible to cover up with new paint. Bring a small magnet along with you and check the rockers etc to see if they are steel and only steel. Check the condition of the exhaust too. Rust there will indicate there is probably more elsewhere. I don't want to scare you from the purchase, but a rust free MJ is worth a heck of a lot more than a rusty one covered with shiny new paint. Jeep on! --Pete

An aluminum tie rod? :? Jeep on! --Pete

Looks like a second amp. 1 for the sub, 1 for the rest, I imagine. That's what I did at least (back when the 88 was 2wd and a daily driver). The clear thingy is a power distribution block to split it to the amps. Keep an eye on any rust you find and try to find out where the moisture came from. The rust has a tendency to come back with a vengence. Jeep on! --Pete

That would be a sweet edition to my eventual stroker 4.0L. :D Or maybe it would be a bit overkill. :roll: Jeep on! --Pete

It's not glue, but yes they are glued in with silicone. The best trick I've found for tracing water leaks is to pull everything out of the truck (sometimes you can see the tracks of the water) and make sure everything is dry. Then sprinlke baby powder everywhere you think the water might be traveling too and from. Then close up the truck and hose it down in every suspect location. The water should make tracks through the powder and lead you straight to the source. I've had success with this method 3 times now (3 different trucks). :D When it comes to leaky windows, I usually just buy some black exterior house silicone for a caulking gun. Automotive stuff is too expensive and bathroom silicone is too stinky. Jeep on! --Pete

I assume you're talking about the front section of the frame. I got to put my rocker bars anywhere I wanted so I could avoid the complication. What doe Rusty advise? I know they've done it before so they must have some sort of solution, right? :roll: Jeep on! --Pete

So you need to go completely through, yes? My hole saws have a hex end to them but I don't own a big enough chuck to accomodate them. My solution was to use a socket and driver bit. It allows me to use my current drill, but also to add ratchet extensions as needed. I cut all my holes for the rocker guards that way. Six 2-1/8" holes completely through the frame and I didn't have to cut from underneath the truck at all. :D That would have been a TON of work moving the exhaust, gas tank, etc. Jeep on! --Pete

What are you cutting?

Get some aftermarket perches. Stock perches are crap. Jeep on! --Pete

Close, except that from my research the 30 and 35 are the same width and the 8.8 is one inch narrower (.5 per side). Jeep on! --Pete