Pete M

I have the following items available almost any time. To order, just send me a PM with your name/address, what you would like, and if you're paying with paypal or a MO/etc through snail mail. (Custom colors for the white vinyl decals are technically possible with some limits. Send me a PM and I'll see what I can do.) new tribute stickers for Don (horndrod) and Pete (cruiser54). roughly 6" long price: free 40" long "ComancheClub.com" windshield decals in white (applies to the INSIDE of the windshield to avoid being destroyed by the wipers) price: donation 12" long "ComancheClub.com" decals in white (applies to the outside of a surface). your choice of the bubble outline or standard letters price: donation 10" long "Logo" decal. price: donation business card sized magnets for yourself or for handing out to MJ owners you meet. price: free How to order: send me a message with an address and list of what you want. I can accept payment trough paypal, venmo, cashapp or good ol' snail mail. all donations go towards our website bills. --------------------------------------------------------- How to apply: The best way I've found for mounting the 12" decals is to clean the surface thoroughly. Then place it where you want and make sure it's level (do NOT assume that the bottom of the paper is parallel with the letters!) Then tape it above and below the center with masking tape. the pull up one side and peel back the backing. Tear it off and slowly push the decal down, making sure to push out any bubbles with your thumb. Now half of the decal is adhered and you can remove the masking tape and do the same for the rest. Best method for the stickers: Clean the surface thoroughly. Then soak the surface with glass cleaner. Remove the backing and apply the sticker to the wet surface. Move the sticker where you want it and then dry the area directly above and below the sticker. Use some masking tape in this area to keep the sticker from moving around. Now use your thumb to push the liquid and bubbles out to the sides. You can probably leave the tape in position until the sticker dries and adheres, but I just removed it carefully so the sticker doesn't move around. Best method for the big decals: Don't know yet. I haven't tried one and won't be able to until Sunday. I imagine the "wet" application method might be beneficial since then you can go out front and see if it looks centered and level and make changes to the placement.

I too have to replace all of the front brake parts (even though I have 2 complete axles to choose from), but I find it much less painful than when I replace other parts. All new brakes are an infinitely good thing. :D

119 vs what? 107? And it weighs more too. Every little bit counts. The idea of a towing MJ is intreguing, but yeah, you'd have to be real committed to it. Don't forget to upgrade to a dual diaphram booster. Oh, and a longbed MJ is 119. I flat-towed my MJ with a Durango last fall and there was still a lot of wiggling. Just less than with the Libby. Flat towing sucks, but a 2000 lb trailer would probably put the weight of my junk to almost 7000 lbs. And that's a lot of weight. :( I can't wait til my buddy buys that diesel Ford he's been dreaming of. :D

30s should fit better with the aftermarket rims. 31s should fit with stock-type rims.

The Durango has a longer wheelbase than the ZJ.

You've got TWO MJs with manual steering? Do you seek them out? :eek:

He means photObucket.com with another "O" in it. :D I use picturetrail.com and there are others out there. Just upload your pics, copy the address of the pic, paste it here surrounded by and you're golden! :cheers:

You won't need a drop pitman for only 4". In fact, adding it can actually make bump-steer worse.

$80!!! :eek: Holy cow! Is it really that much better than the $10 XJ fans from the junkyard?

I towed my MJ with a diesel KJ and, while accelerating was a piece of cake for the diesel, braking was iffy and it always felt like the wiggling on the freeway was one or two oscillations away from disaster. The advanced traction/stability control was a huge help, as was the awd t-case.

It'll be real tight and will most likely rub on the fenders.

If you're worried about turning the fan off, just power the relay from a "switched power" source. That way it turns off with the key. That way you don't even need to add another switch to the interior.

Stock rims?

Fuse? Yes, absolutely. From in the box? Only if you're taking power for a relay, not if you're powering the fan directly. Relays only take a small amount of juice. Your fan can easily overwhelm the little wires in the box.

Not if you like trying to figure out what that burnt smell is. :chillin:

The 2.5L shares transmissions with the 2.8L, which is why I would guess they would share starters, but I don't own a 2.5L, so I can't check (the question was posed to me by another owner).

The relay will handle the juice, the majority of switches out there will not. It took a while before I learned that the hard way (youthful ignorance and/or stupidity). Plus then you can run a small guage wire into the cab instead of buying a whole bunch of bigger stuff.

I have the magnets, the 3x5 bumper stickers, the 12" long decals, and even some 24" long decals. Just waiting on the windshield decals which should be in my hands tomorrow. Oh, and I was waiting for my semester to end (and that ended about an hour ago). One way or another I'll make this all official tomorrow.

Personally I'd wire it through a relay to a switch on the dash. I did it to my 88 out of necessity (something in the system stopped working while I was on the dunes) and I plan to do the same to my 90 because I like it so much. I just perfer the idea of it running all the time. Probably because I've had so many heating issues in the past. Of course, then you have to remember to turn it on and off. There's plusses and minuses to everything.

Which ones aren't interchangeable? All of them?

Are the 2.5L starters like 4.0L starters or like 2.8L starters?

Careful with the sledge. I'd advise using a piece of 2x4 as a buffer between the rim and sledge.

The BA-10 fill plug is on the passenger side of the trans (I think). It takes a square metric tool and most of us take an old 3/8" ratchet extension and ground it down slightly to fit the hole. Oh, and the Peugeot will take regular ol' GL-5.

Be very VERY careful if you remove the sender. I hear it's pretty easy to snap off the connection to the block.

:rotfl2: The floor (once I have one again) will be covered in bediner. Just like it should have been from the factory. If they had done something like that, I'd still have a floor. :headpop: