Pete M

Oh, and it depends on the fast-talking skills of the person trying to get away with it. :yes:

Depends. You have to weigh the risks and rewards. Drunk driving is a no, while storing 24 tires in the back yard is a yes. :D

Yup. I was going to put one in my new MJ, but decided to use my Dana 44 instead (I already had the 44).

4wd MJ on the left, 2wd MJ in the middle.

An increase in tire size will hurt the performance of an engine if the gear ratio isn't changed to match. This wouldn't happen to be a gold colored MJ would it?

What size tires? What gear ratio in the axles?

I can't speak for the 1990 Jeeps, but the 93 AW-4 I have sitting on the floor takes either a 7/16th or 11 mm for the CPS bolts.

I struck a deal with the decal guy. He'll have them cut tomorrow and I'll do the rest of the work (weeding and facing the decals). It's cheaper too, but mostly it bumps us up in the waiting line so I can get everything prepped, ready and out by weds (hopefully). (I'm hoping to leave for camping on weds night)

Wouldn't a faulty CPS cause the engine to shut off? :hmm:

I'm on the other end of the spectrum. I killed a Dana 35 on 30" tires and street driving. :D

Do they work if you turn the emergency blinkers on?

Chuck you need to remember to sign in. :D Rockwells can be done cheaper than 60s, but you really need a TON of horsepower to justify them (and a ton of torque to move those heavy chunks of steel around). What are your plans for tires and engine?

Seems prudent to check to see if the little TPS arm isn't stuck.

TPS? Is the brake booster vacuum line connected?

Hard to beat soft aluminum sheets and self tapping screws for ease of covering a hole. :D Not the best for durability though. :(

is your manches odometer in kilometers? how in the world did it end up in our neck of the woods? I'm a proud Canadian, Oiz. :) Livin' it up 5+ hours east of Detroit, exc ept on the other side of the border. But not quite proud enough to put his location in his profile. :teehee:

Purely for looks. Makes me think of the cool antennas they have on Humvees and other military trucks. :D Too bad it's such a problem in the trees. Otherwise I'd just glue it on and call it done. I got my stuff from a local electronics store. I think the antenna was $7 and the spring $6 or something like that. Don't remember how much the cable was. It took me a while to find one that showed it, but I ringed the bed with some galvanized C-channel (Uni-strut specifically) and I simply bolted the antenna to it. Any store that sells the big whips should also have brackets. Get a steel one if at all possible and make sure the antenna and it's cable stay TOTALLY ISOLATED from anything grounded.

Yup, the O-rings are replaceable. You might take the opportunity to soak the ends in something to clean out the ports.

Make sure you don't take power off of any accessories. I take mine straight from the battery (with a fuse of course). And route the antenna signal cable as far from any power wires as possible. I had some noise issues back when I installed amps for the radio and I cured most of the isses by making sure the dash was firmly grounded. My CB My antenna: I've lost 2 fiberglass ones so far. One that was mounted on the side of the bed (lost to a tree), and then I mounted one in the middle of the bed, directly behind the cab where I thought it'd be safe (lost to a different tree). But Now I have a cheapie whip antenna mounted on a spring. Takes a beating but it's still there. :D Plus, now I can do this: By the way, incase you're wondering why a thin metal whip looks oddly thick, I sleeved it with vacuum line. :D It's just for looks though, I take it off on the trails. Otherwise the rubber line grabs the trees, while the steel will just deflect.

Got it! :thumbsup:

A picture's worth a thousand words... :brows:

Well, now that you announced it, you HAVE to take pictures! :D :needpics:

Huh? :hmm:

Very true! I'd highly recommend flushing out the heater core regardless of what system you go with. And make sure you flush water throw both the in and out tubes to really get it cleaned out. When you go to fill the system back up, a trick others have used to get all the bubbles out of the head is to raise the back of the truck up and unscrew the temp sensor at the back of the head to let the air escape. Do this while the truck is running, but don't let the sensor unscrew all the way or you will be showered with coolant. And to be on the safe side, break the sensor free of it's 15 year old "glue" before you start the engine, have someone ELSE be the one to start the engine so they can shut it off right away if there's a problem, make sure the truck is COOL when you do all this (cause the only thing worse than being showered with coolant is being showered with 210* coolant), and make sure you're wearing safety glasses!

Personally, removing the bed is the last thing I would want to do. Rust has attacked my trucks so bad that I just know it'll be a major pain in the behind. :mad: But several guys have done it and I'm sure they'll chime in the instant they see this.