Pete M

And yes, the Dakota line works with the Comanche too.

You mean the kind that screw to the side of the door?

No thanks. Last time I tried that I got shocked. Big time. :eek:

If it was, it's not anymore. :D It has been the way it is now since the original owner had a wire harness fire under the dash, gutted it, and eventually gave up on fixing it. He wired it enough to drive it around the farm in Oklahoma (originally a California truck). When I bought it 8 years ago it ran great. Heck, it ran ok even just a couple years ago. Since then it's been going down hill. Probably due to a lack of use. I've shot starter fluid down the carb and it doesn't seem to make any difference. So tomorrow I'll: -change spark plugs (I bought replacements a couple years ago. They should be around somewhere) -buy one of those inline spark-checkers that lights up (because I've always wanted one) -check fuel bowl and carb guts On a side note, before it got really dark I was able to wash the ol' girl. That was one dirty truck. Before I re-park her I need to wash again, this time with a scrub brush. :roll:

I have thought about that. At one time I even got close to swapping in a complete 2wd 4.3L drivetrain. But the days of needing to drive this much have past and now it merely needs to putter around under its own power. Maybe someday, when I have a place of my own (and don't need the cavernous bed topper to store a lot of my Jeep junk) I'll put more effort into it. For now I just need the dang thing to idle on its own. It did it yesterday. Now very well mind you, but it did idle. And now it won't. :(

The only carbed engine to come in an MJ of course. :D Sorry, I don't mention the 86 much so I should probably give some details shouldn't I. :roll: -2.8L -No factory wire harness (yeah, you read that right). -Ran fine when last parked many many moons ago. -gas has plenty of sta-bil in it It's probably just something stupid that I'm overlooking. :(

...come here and fix my truck. :mad: ...stupid pile o' crap... can't move a lousy 200 yards... but can move 100 of those yards and strand itself in the middle of the stupid intersection... forcing me push it back into the parking lot... by myself... now it blows up my muffler... :rant: But seriously, it sounds like it's only firing one cylinder, maybe 2. It won't idle without practically flooring the gas pedal. Won't rev up any faster than idle speed. I cleaned up the inside of the distributor, swapped out a couple spark plug wires with known good ones to no effect, lubed up the carb linkage and nothing has changed. I'm sick of dealing with it in the parking lot. Tonight I'll be dragging it over to the garage. I'm not sure what I want to do next (I don't plan on sinking much money into what amounts to a giant storage locker for me), but I'm positive whatever happens is going to happen 200 yards closer to my tools and electricity. I'm tired of all the walking. :( sigh...

You want performance from a Renix system? Gears. Gears, gears, gears, gears, gears. Also keep up on the regular maintenance. And at the ages of our trucks, that includes sensors too.

Little do you guys know that I'm only here because of a selfish desire to find somebody, anybody to talk with about my trucks. Lord knows my friends and family don't want to hear about them anymore. :rotfl2: But seriously, it's all for the love of the trucks. :cheers:

Pm me and I'll be happy to send out more. :cheers:

So I'm the only one that saw the pic and said, "Hey, that's not a Jeep manifold!" :roll:

It's held in to the duct housing with a small screw. Takes a 7 or 8 mm wrench. And yes, if they are the older coil resisters, they get really really hot. Like burn paper hot. Mine burned out due to corrosion.

65" wide if I remember right. 2" wider on each side.

Yes. In fact I read that the front control arm mounts are actually pretty darn close to the MJ/XJ/ZJ/TJ mounts and will work. I can't verify that, it's just what I read online. The rears would need to be cleaned off and leaf perches added. The wheel bolt pattern would be 5 on 5", so you'll need new rims. You'll need the proper flanges for the driveshafts, adapt the brake lines, wire in switches for the lockers, etc.

Fuel injection is controlled by the computer and it does it with input from the sensors. You've got what's commonly referred to as the "Renix" system. It's complex and yet simple, at the same time. A self-ranging multimeter and a repair guide will be your best friends (along with us of course :D ). Don't think of it as "if I had a carb this would be easy". Both systems have good points and bad points. If a sensor goes bad and needs replacing, don't assume it's a cost over and above a carb, because carbs have things that break too. And once you have the fuel injection tuned up, it'll give far better reliability and economy than a comparable carb. It's just an old truck, with old parts, and just like any old truck, it'll need some TLC to get it back to running like new.

Well, its going to the dump sometime tomorrow (what i pulled from under it) and that axel is sittin under my dad's JK I don't think it will be a direct swap from the jk to the Mj, but i am not sure. Different wheel bolt patterns.

I've got a huge folder full of smiles that I've found around on the net. Way more than any single site needs. Someday I'll go through and reorganize them and change it up a bit. :hateputers: Until then, there's always the option of linking from offsite.

Not retarded. It's simply a side-effect of MJ addiction. :brows:

My first thought is usually o2 sensor. When was yours last replaced?

Yes, I have some of everything listed in the first post. If I run out, I order more. That's what the donations go towards. (well, that and the annual online fees) :cheers:

Rules/fees/penalties will vary by location. Heck, in Georgia they can vary county to county.

It's technically possible to pass emissions with no cat. But it's not recommended since very few rigs could do it.

Totally true. :thumbsup: But for those who aren't electrically skilled, the lock is quick and simple.

I believe it's not the rear driveshaft that's the concern, it's the bearings inside of the t-case. If the case isn't spinning internally, then the oil pump isn't spinning, and then the rear bearings won't get lube. Or something like that.

The output spline count of a Peugeot transmission should be 21 spline As to the clutch, what brand master are you using? I've heard horror stories from guys that bought cheap ones and had to go through a couple to get one that worked. :(