Pete M

What doesn't break on them? :dunno: Mine threw a bunch of ring teeth and bent into a smile from massive 30" tires on the street (2wd at the time). Jumping would definitely put too much stress on the weak housing and tubes. An 8.8 can be found for pretty cheap and gives you strength, 4.10s and disk brakes. :thumbsup:

Ah, that makes sense. The stock bumper hangs down pretty darn low. Thought about simply trimming and re-locating the bumper up higher into the sheetmetal?

I'm still unsure of why you want to cut the bed shorter. :hmm: Also, you aren't allowed to apologize for asking questions, no matter how noob you may think they are. :thumbsup: Just ask away! :cheers: See Rule #2: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16664

Please everyone take offers of parts for sale to either the classifieds or to private messages. Thanks. :thumbsup: --Admin

Bushing to bushing, baby. :D Works great! (though the next time around I'm going with a not-Rustys track bar mount) :shake:

Exhaust routing and cooling will be the big concerns.

Looks very good for a rustbelt MJ. :thumbsup: Pulled up the carpet yet?

advanceadapters.com and novak-adapt.com

I'm on my way out the door. You can pick up the slack for a while. :D

$$$$$ or the lack there-of. But enough of this thread hijack. Thinking of my baby just sitting there is making me depressed. :(

Yup, you only have one. 91+ 2.5s will have 4.

Still running the R/T? Rob L. Well, I still own the R/T. :shake: Haven't run it much lately. :(

The connector behind the tire can cause problems with any of the rear lights (and the fuel pump too in my 88's case). Also check the reverse light switch on the trans. :thumbsup:

Swapping to MPI would give a bit of a boost for sure. Not sure how ambitious the OP is since that will require all new wiring throughout the truck. A fresh injector on the TBI should help the current system. :thumbsup: Too bad my Dakota already exceeds the max engine size. :doh:

It'll work out great. :thumbsup: Just don't spend any money regearing a Dana35. If you have a 35 and plan to tow, invest in a better axle.

Why bother? It won't affect anything. I've been running gate-less for years now. Bedsides don't move at all. :thumbsup:

Gears gears gears. If you've got 3.55s, those are really holding you back. :thumbsup:

Would RE's website have that info?

I made my own. :D

I'd keep the 2.5 (Jeep was dominating the SCCA races with it back in the day) and swap in an AX-5 (goes right in place of the AX-4) and a 95+ Explorer 8.8 (with 4.10s and disk brakes). The 8.8 came with posi or open, so get an open if you want to throw in a locker. You most likely have a 3.55 geared rearend and that's absolutely killing your power. :( After that I'd swap in a v8 ZJ front sway bar (bigger), firmer shocks (rather than stiffer springs) and look into the air-charged bumpstops. Oh, and I'd drop the engine driven fan for an electric. Rust is so prevalent in my neck of the woods that I'd never ever voluntarily cut the bed.

4) check the wire harness connector located right behind the drivers side rear tire. I had corrosion in there and it was causing all sorts of havoc with the rear lights. :(

My brain is trying to tell me it takes a square 10mm tool. :hmm:

I've not yet heard of anyone having a problem. Our trucks have a much sturdier rear structure than a fullsize (our bed is bolted directly to a fully boxed frame, their beds usually sit on body mounts on a C-channel frame)

Both will vary wildly by area. try car-part.com for junkyards near you

Nothing like a big healthy serving of borrowed time to make one complacent. :D