Pete M

Step 1: buy an HO XJ Step 2: swap over everything :D Seriously though, there are some hiccups in the swap and I'm failing to find the right threads. Dang I hate our search engine. :fs1: Most are related to fuel. The lines are different, the wires are different, etc. Something like that.

Soap would also work to help install the new seal. It's a tight fit.

How much are you looking to swap? Just the block? or the whole enchilada?

Let the motor sit overnight before pulling the pan. And even then you should expect drips, lots and lots of them. ear plugs are suggested. :thumbsup: And be sure to buy 2 of the RMSs when you go to the store. It's surprisingly easy to injure them during installation. :( I squirted a small bit of grease up in the upper half's hole before installation and it seemed to help out. Let the silicone cure before you fire up the Jeep. :D

did they have a different way to let the leafs flex?

No problemo. Found the solution quite by accident actually. :D

You did empty the vacuum out right away, yes? :ack: That's an interesting pulley problem for sure. :hmm:

It's dad's, not mine, and it was a pretty penny when he got it. I'd like to fix it for him. :popcorn:

Not a lot of wheel travel up and down with no shackles. :hmm:

No, not those ones. :D My microwave is on the fritz. Nothing works at all in it. Fuses are good and I've traced good 110 power to the low voltage transformer. But the transformer isn't giving me the proper readings. According to the "fix-it paper" found wedged inside the back casing, it should be 17 ohms on the primary and 0.5 ohms on the secondary. The primary is reading too low (13 I think it was). Problem is that the part no longer exists in the world. :fs1: So I figure I'll just wire in a generic version. But I've got no idea what voltage should be coming out of this thing. The papers don't say and it's been a decade since I've had an electrical course and can't remember if it's possible to determine the output voltage of a transformer from only the input voltage and the resistance. Anyone remember? :dunno: any other ideas?

If it won't even crank, the first thing I'd do is clean the battery terminals and the insides of the cable that attaches to them with steel wool or some sort of steel scrubber brush. :thumbsup: Does it make a click noise in the engine bay?

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Because at stock height, the 2 bars are pretty close together. Raising it just a bit won't change it much. But raise the truck 5" and you've got serious problems. That's why I said "can" change your toe. It is a possibility. Plus trucks as old as ours can have other wear issues that can complicate things as you lift. Never underestimate the power of slop to either mask or exacerbate a problem. :thumbsup: Sorry, this is the best pic I could find of a stock system at stock height. :(

You are correct, lengthening the drag link does not affect toe. :thumbsup: But raising the truck does. The "drag link" connection isn't quite a straight line and gets more crooked as you lift the Jeep.

As you go up in height with an inverted Y steering, the pitman arm raises up, angling the drag link up and raising the connection point with the drag link. This shortens the theoretical "drag link" measurement between the knuckles and pulls in the tires. The more you lift, the more the toe changes (as well as the more the steering wheel rotates over). Inverted T systems don't change the toe. :thumbsup:

You could grab a couple pairs of coil isolators (the rubber things at the top of your coils) from junkyard MJ/XJs. Keep in mind that any change in height can change the tow setting or your alignment.

What kind of temps are you getting at the in and out ports of the radiator?

Have you taken an inferred thermometer to it yet?

Picking up the frontend? Or rear?

No I didn't run down the street to a neighbor's house, it's purely an example sign at a sign company's website. :D

It's possible that there's too much flow through the radiator and the coolant isn't cooling down enough. :dunno: Have you tried it with a full thermostat inside?