flint54

Getting ready to take the plunge. Planning to install a (tag says 90) 242 in place of the (tag says 91) 231. As expected, the 242 has a 21 spline input gear and the 231 has a 23 spline. I've reviewed the previous discussions here on this swap, and have confirmed that the protrusion is the same. I'm seeking advice from anyone here who has done this swap to help me avoid screwing up two T cases. Thanks !! (Yes I've got the 242 shift gate, and also the Novak cable).

And the answer to my own question is: AX15 (with bell housing and clutch components) = 104 lb NP231 = 63 lb NP242 = 78 lb Separating the 231 from the AX15 in place was loads of fun, but handling them wasn't too bad. Nutserts have their own special place in hell. Had to cut the heads off of the T case bash plate center bolts.

I look better than that, and figured one hand to place it into position and the other hand to install the bolts. It's only aluminum for cryin' out loud.

For AX15 transmission and for NP231 transfer case. Going to pull them, would like to pull them together. Anyone know these numbers? Thanks!

Looks like this topic went sideways. I am looking specifically for an OEM only, master cylinder only, source if there be one. Thanks!

Yes, I think so. I have now collected two visors, both removed by me from Comanches, both fit very well, and neither one having any marking to proove who made them. They might be Lund, but I cannot tell.. They are as you describe, J front with air slots.

The time has finally come to tackle this task. Pedal is getting intermittently soft. WIll pump up and work, but that's just a graceful failure. There are no leaks, no loss of fluid. I'm going to (finally) use the external slave and bell housing I've stashed all these months, alnong with the AN plumbing upgrade. Here's my puzzle: Chrysler wants to sell me only the whole end-to-end package; master, hose, and (internal) slave (PN 4636864), and I don't want to pay their price to use only the master. Does anyone know a source for just an OEM master cylinder (not aftermarket)? Would prefer to use the MC for 1992, not the newer style with different mounting pattern. Thanks!

RE: "i know this is extremely irresponsible but i don't care." If my son ever said that, I would consider myself as having utterly failed in MY responsibility. Go find yourself a dirt field with nobody else around and drift all you want, but stay the hell off the road until you mature. And get rid of the MJ before it's ruined. (you got the respectful version, I deleted the other one)

Seems that it should not leak with a good seal/gasket, but here's a product that you may find useful for this, and other, sealing tasks: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caul ... /97741.htm

I guess that would be a backup option. I may have found a JY out in a very dry part of the country that is willing to cut them out of a bed for me.

I only put one there because it finishes the underside of the hood, but it surely wasn't worth the cost (to me) in terms of results.

Curious how rich it's running. Black smoke? Badly fouled plugs? Sudden large unexplainable drop in mileage? I can't imagine a fuel pump causing too rich. Fuel pressure gauges aren't very expensive, and really helpful to help diagnose. Three factors control fuel rate: 1) the orifice size (doesn't suddenly change), 2) the ECM input to the injector coils (pulse time), and 3) the fuel pressure. If your fuel pressure measures nominal (which I think is around 32 psi with vacuum connected to the reg and 40 psi with vacuum removed from the reg) I would suggest pulling injectors and have them flow tested to see if perhaps one or more are leaky. If pressure checks out, and the injectors check out, the only thing left is what the ECM is telling the injectors to do, and why. My recent "too rich" problem was due to unstable vacuum to the MAP sensor, which in turn caused the ECM to do crazy things. I've had O2 sensors go TU and cause similar issue. (sometimes I really miss the old points distributors and the dual carbs).

Yes, I suppose they are, but aren't they a bit different?

There is some perforation behind my rear flares, where moisture has gotten trapped for 20+ years. It's not gross, but I want to have it corrected before painting. Is there anyone willing to take a sawzall and cut up a bed that doesn't have this condition? (some would shoot me for the suggestion, I know) My bed is otherwise perfect, with Line-eX, so I'm not inclined to swap beds.

Job is done! See writeup in the DIY projects section.

Notes From Minuit: - This upgrade is possible on 1991 through 1996 Cherokees and Comanches only. The 120 MPH speedometer discussed below was only available on 1993 through 1996 United Kingdom market Cherokees. Cable-driven alternatives may exist, but are outside of the scope of this writeup. - As discussed later in this thread, this swap is not applicable to instrument clusters from 1991 model year vehicles. If you are interested in performing this upgrade on your 1991 vehicle, a 1992 through 1996 instrument cluster is compatible with a 1991 vehicle and will accept the 120 MPH speedometer. As the topic says, I wanted one, and, thanks to fellow member Jim, I now have it. This one came from a 1994 UK cluster and the swap into my 92 was total plug and play, no modifications whatsoever. So, here's a few images of the details: First the "donor cluster (note the temp and oil gauge units): Cluster removal and speedo removal didn't warrant their own images, so next is an image of the backside of the removed 120mph speedo: Next, observe the UK foil circuit, in particular the three terminals for the speedo: USA foil circuit looks like this, with my marks showing the difference: Backside of the removed 85mph speedo looks like this: This is where the epiphany took place - note the white interface adapter that makes the units interchangeable between the two clusters and foils: Swapping the adapter was three screws easy. Just as easy as three more screws to install the 120mhp speedo into my cluster, then the cluster back into the dash: To my astonishment, the drive test showed the new 120mph unit to be very accurate, based on previously made RPM comparisons for every 5mph between 35 and 85. On top of that, the odometer and trip meter are also accurate. There's now only two things left to do: A) send unit to these folks to have odometer reset to my mileage: http://www.gaugeguys.com/ and B) continue modifying the truck so that it may someday actually achieve 120 mph.

Welcome aboard!! You are wise to be leery of prying on 20 year old plastic. The tabs that hold the light assembly (not the lens as pointed out) seem notoriously brittle. I've been batting about 50/50 at the JY, many are already broken. However, there is a suitable replacement light available, if you're not stuck on exact originality. Work it like an eggshell full of black ink over your wife's linen tablecloth. How about some details on your 92?

So, following up on this, after checking all suggestions I found that three things were happening together. The timing was steady, except for an advance pulse (maybe 20 degrees) about once per minute. During that pulse, the RPM dropped about 200, and the A/F meter pulsed from the steady 10 to 15, then back to 10. I gave it all the thinking I had, and came up empty handed. I took it to my local trustworthy garage, and they agonized over it for 8 days, telling me I had already tried everything they had in mind. Then, in a stroke of brilliance (or sheer luck), they noticed that I had the MAP sensor vacuum teed into some other lines coming off the manifold. They isolated the MAP vacuum line directly to the manifold and BINGO! problem gone. So, even though the manifold vacuum was solid correct, the MAP wants a direct vacuum only. No telling what the ECM was trying to do, but all is well now. A/F is locked onto 15, as it should be, under nearly all conditions. And so now I can finally return to making things better instead of just making it run right. Yaaa Hooo !!!

There will come a time when very few of these trucks are left in good or better condition. When that time comes, assuming there's anyone left alive who remembers when Comanches were actually sold new, the prices will go up quickly. I wouldn't be surprised to see them pass the $10k mark, or even more, for an unmolested truck that isn't rotted. Might be closer than you think now. Mine isn't for sale, but I doubt I would even consider a $10k offer today, even though there's still a lengthy "to do" list.

Who knows of any junkyards within an hour or so of Los Angeles that might be worth scouting for MJ parts? Will be there all week.

Who knows if the odometers in the UK units read kilometers (probably) or miles (doubtful)?

Well, the "200" would sure be interesting, even if in K/ph. It would keep my feeble brain active continuously converting speeds. The downside is that the odometer probably also reads in kilometers rather than miles. I am assuming, perhaps wrongly, that the speedo can be readily swapped between clusters, since I'm more likely to find the police cluster than the one Don shows in the image. When I bought my MJ the trip meter was in-op and I swapped in a (same part number) speedo after having the mileage set to match by a gauge shop. Not sure if there are other differences in cluster or sender that could affect the ability to swap in alternate gauges. Johnj92131, are you saying you have one for sale, or one in your truck? Don, do you keep rare Jeep parts lying around your kitchen just for decor?

It's really simple. One connector, two screws, and around $20 new. Item #9 in the image. Can get here, or other sources as well. I happen to like these folks: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/resistor-b ... 36000.html

Saw this topic recently, and started lusting. Yes, can live without it, but would be really cool. Needs to be compatible for 1992. Thanks!

or under the carpet behind the seats, like mine.