redwolf624

so i was driving last night and noticed that my dash lights are kinda dull, not as bright as i'd like them to be. i was wondering if it's possible to buy new bulbs for the gauges and how hard it is to take the gauges out and replace the bulbs and all that good stuff, Redwolf

good enough for me to get one, but 100 somethin bucks for a seat cover is the deal breaker, little too pricy for me, Redwolf

looks great man and nest week i should be able to make it out there with my welder, i just gotta get more welding wire friday, Redwolf

this is what i followed when i adjusted my valves: 1. Disconnect the cable from the negative batter terminal. 2. if the rocker arm covers are still on the engine, refer to section 4 and remove them (section 4 just tells ya what to take off to take the covers off) 3. if the valve train components have been serviced just prior to this procedure, make sure that the components are completely reassembled. 4.rotate the crankshaft untill the nuber one piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. To make sure you do not mic up the TDC positions of the number one and four pistions, place your fingers on the number one rocker arms as the timing marks line up at the crankshaft pulley. If the rocker arms are not moving, the number one pistion is not at TDC. If they move as the timing marks line up, the number four pistion is at TDC. 5. back off the rocker arm nut untill play is felt at the pushrod, then turn it back untill all play is removed. This can be determinded by rotating the pushrod white tighting the nut. Just when drag is felt at the pushrod, all lash has been removed. Now turn the nut an additional 1 1/2 turns. 6. Adjust the number one, five, and six cylinder intake valves and the number one, two and three crankshaft valve in this position, using the method just described. 7. Rotate the crankshaft untill the number four pistion is at TDC on the compression stroke and adjust the number two, three, and four cylinder intake valves and the number four five and six cylinder exhaust valves, 8. install rocker arm covers tires are at 35PSI, i'm not haulin anything but my hi left jack and my spare tire, air filter is clean and i don't know bout the fuel filter, all fluid are good, and i don't know if i got a bad cat or not, Redwolf

i've tried to figure out what's causing my bad mileage, i've played with the spark plugs by gapping them at 45 (like they should be for a normal 2.8), i've tried 35 and 40 (which is the best right now). I've adjusted the valves and i've played with the carbs fuel/air mixure, nothing is helping me get better mileage, i even changed the way i shift, thinking i was shifting too early or too late. I ran out of ideas and can't think of what else could cause such bad mileage, Redwolf

can we all stop being grammer nazis and help answear the question of what could be causing bad fuel mileage, Redwolf

would love to see that with the jug in it, Redwolf

so like any after market seat cover just form fitting? Redwolf

is this like your normal seat cover that you can by from the auto part store or walmart or is it a seat cover that just draps over the seat? Redwolf

i don't know if i have the fuel/air ratio back to what is was, i have it where if i hook up a vaccum gauge when i start dropping vaccum i turn it back to where it goes up and once it stops goin up i stop. and a tune up (what i've grown up knowing it to be) is spark plugs, wires (depending on how new and if ya wanna get em) cap, rotor, oil change, air filter and a gerneral inspection of brakes, belts and other goodies, Redwolf

It may be the way you are, and I really don't want to be a fool about this, but the reason English was standardized was to improve clarity of communication. Many of your posts are not clear. It's a struggle, I know, but it would really help help us to help you if your written grammar was a little more standard. The "g" isn't so much a clarity issue as a few other things you do regularly. From your last post "that last time i rebuilt is it was in may" is far from a standard, although more than likely a typo that a simple rereading could have caught. When I post, I reread before I hit "post" and often afterwards, and I'll edit right away if I catch a mistake. A tips that would improve the clarity of your posts substantially would be to avoid run-on sentences. Keep your sentences basic. For example, the sentence Hornbrod quoted: Would be much clearer if you had written it like this: This also brings up another issue, which would be helpful in solving your current issue. So I was able to understand from that sentence that eight months ago your carburetor was rebuilt and it was good. But the did the "eight months of it runnin" come before a rebuilt carb was installed (just now) or are we still talking about the same rebuilding that happened eight months ago? Again, I don't want to be a fool. You seem to be a decent person in need of help, and I'd like to help you. I don't really have the technical expertise to help you with your exact issue, but there are people on this forum who can. Unfortunately, though, they find it frustrating that you can't communicate clearly what issue you're having. For starters, be open with all information. Has anything else changed besides the poor fuel economy? You were looking at adjusting air/fuel ratios and rebuild kits. Did you end up doing anything at all to your carb, or did you just start getting terrible mpg? first off sorry if what i post seems to be hard to understand, i try my best to make it easily understandable. second i had rebuilt the carb back in either may or june, it was shortly after i got my MJ running and passed state inspection, here is what i have tried to do to fix the bad milage; gapping spark plugs, chaging spark plug wires (which were badly needed) adjusting the fuel/air on the carb, carb cleaner (after that the engine ran smoother but mileage went down even more) the only thing i have not tinkered with is the manual choke and rebuilding the carb again, i'm just wondering if i need to do a tune up on my MJ, the last tune up done was back in may or june of last year, Redwolf

:huh???: Eight months?? You were askin about carb kits just last February. :hmm: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42121-running-rough-doesnt-wanna-start-but-timing-is-dead-on/?hl=rebuild+kit&do=findComment&comment=427512 yeah but i never rebuilt it, that last time i rebuilt is it was in may or june, Redwolf

when i did rebuild the carb i had better mileage but now after almost 8 months of it runnin and a rebuilt carb the gas mileage tanked I'm sorry, but after this post I just have to say something. Is your keyboard defective? Doesn't it have a 'G' key? The following words ALL end in the letter 'g'. Is it so difficult to just type the last letter? relyin adjustin timin gettin fillin causin bein gettin not a defective keyboard i just don't add G to the end of my words that use ING, just how i am, Redwolf

since my father is no help to me anymore cause he's too lazy to help me figure it out i'm relyin on yall, when i first dropped the 93 sonoma 2.8 in my MJ and after adjustin the valves, timin and carb i had wonderful gas mileage, i'd get 17-19 but now i'm gettin like 10-13, i'll be fillin up my tank at the end of every week, i don't know where to start, what could be causin my gas mileage to tank like that, i know i don't have the best carb in the world bein that it's a rotchester carb but even before i rebuilt it i was gettin great mileage, any ideas? Redwolf

NC requires inspection? then why don't any of the vehicles have an inspection sticker in the window? lol i think i have more threads then that lol but i did get the fog lights on and turn off when highbeams are on and i do know my gear ratio lol hey VA is the worst state to live in in my opinion, i'd rather live in coralina, texas, tenn, Ga or any southern state that doesn't require state inspection, Redwolf No inspections here. No emissions testing/checks. Taxes aren't crazy. i know where i wanna move lol i've thought bout takin the pins outta the hindges but that'd be way too much work to put em on and take em off, Redwolf

hey VA is the worst state to live in in my opinion, i'd rather live in coralina, texas, tenn, Ga or any southern state that doesn't require state inspection, Redwolf

well i've figured out how i'd have a disconnect system for the speakers but sadly i can not have removeable doors in the state of VA somethin bout cuttin the hindges and state inspection :( Redwolf

thanks guys and i think i figured a way to have speakers in the doors with em on, wire nuts at the ends where the wire goes from the door to the cab, 4 wire nuts per door, 2 for positive and 2 for negative when the doors are on have em wired together with 2 and but the other 2 away in a safe place and have all 4 speakers (if rear speakers are installed) and when doors are off have the EQ on the radio set to just rear speakers and have the wire nuts on the speaker wire to the door, i just don't know how well that'd wire nut idea work with the doors on and shut, Redwolf

now that does clear up how to cut the hindges and all that but doesn't answear my seal question, is a bad seal all on how ya put the hindge back on? also what is ya have hindges like mine where the hindge in the door jam is welded to the body? Redwolf if you take the time to proper re align the door it should not leak any worse that it does now. if you have a dremel with a small cut off wheel you can cut off the bottom of the hinge without removing it from the door. its a bit of a PITA but i did that to my red MJ as a trial run. so all in all if i take my time and don't rush through the modification i'll have removeable doors that won't leak? Redwolf

now that does clear up how to cut the hindges and all that but doesn't answear my seal question, is a bad seal all on how ya put the hindge back on? also what is ya have hindges like mine where the hindge in the door jam is welded to the body? Redwolf

if yall have done it and don't have a leak issue how do some people have leaks and some don't? extra step taken, good hindges? i'd really like to know That middle bar is what regulates the detents when you open your door, and keeps the door from slamming shut on you constantly. I couldn't figure out a good way to keep it when I modified my hinges, and honestly didn't care, so I tossed it out. If the truck is facing uphill even *slightly* the doors close as soon as you let go of them. Facing slightly downhill in a parking lot? Don't let go of the door, it will fall all the way open and bang the shiny car next to you. That may be an issue for some people, personally I like not having it, makes things simpler and the hinges feel smoother. that's what that does? :rotf: :rotfl2: that POS doesn't work anyhow then, i always have my doors fall back on my when i'm uphill and the only thing is does downhill is to keep my door from swingin all the way to the fender lol besides, i could always rig somethin like how the TJs have that strap on the doors :idea: Redwolf

The Middle bar is to open your non twist off refreshment lids with. :thumbsup: seriously what is it's purpose cause i do have both hindges Yes. The doors won't line up the same way as they used to, and will have more degrees of freedom for bouncing up and down as you're driving. The door seals by having a rubber hose smashed between the door and frame, so any movement between the door and the rubber will reduce the effectiveness of the seal. If the door isn't sitting where it should be, then the seal won't work properly either. I don't imagine it'll be that much of an issue in rain, or anything like that. My concern is mostly having frosty breezes flowing through my cab rather than around it in the winter. This is only really a issue on 97+'s --you have to drill out the hinges to accept a larger center pin. If you don't they sag and you have issues. However I don't have issues with my 98 and Ive been doorless since the second weekend Ive owned it 3 years ago. I think this this is a myth/ people doing a jankass ghetto redneck hack job. Like I said mine don't leak and neither does my MJ. I wouldnt really stress it Redwolf unless you think youre going to half @$$ it, ya know? i aint worked bout doin it half way, i'm just worried bout havin leaks, i leak enough and have enough rust in my cab to fix i don't need more, Redwolf

got to lookin at my MJ's doors and the driver door the hindge pins are slightly put, could i beat those up and out with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver and if so there's my answear to takin my doors off it'll just be a two person job untill a better way is figured out with a good seal and also what is the middle bar for inbetween the 2 hindges as showned in the pic below Redwolf

readin that made me think, i have indoor speakers so i'd have to either disconnect or cut the wires, either way i lose my front speakers, maybe this project will be put on hold untill i can find a sound bar to mount in my MJ, Redwolf

i leak enough as it is, if i leak more cause of a bad seal i'll have to let this idea go, i'm already gettin a floor full or water when it rains, Redwolf