redwolf624

hey, i'm just tryin to get all my facts and research done, yall always told me do that before i do anything :thumbsup: Redwolf

see that's where i can't proceed, no camaros around the junkyards here have 3.4s they all have 3.8s or 5.0s by the way, wouldn't the 3.4 eat my ax 5 trans for breakfest? Redwolf

well gettin home this mornin was interesting, i had to keep on the gas just to keep the truck runnin, fuel/air mixture is fine, but i'm gettin no oil pressure at all once i let off the gas, it just stalls' the whole way home i'm hearin a loud knockin sounded like broken valves, i'll fine out more tomorrow when i'm off, Redwolf

i agree with JeepcoMJ on that one, plastic dip is for ricers, my coworker keeps tellin me to use it on my rims (like he did on his eclipse) i for one don't like the finish on plastic dip and if it keeps gettin hit it'll peal, could i possibly use a can of spray bedline? Redwolf

so i've scrapped the idea of relays since i didn't get them to work the fog lights, now my fog lights are wired to a switch just like before and don't cut off with the hi beams :dunno: oh well, covers will be made for inspection. I'm now bolting in the roll bar and i even got my rear bumper bent back straight :banana: i'll take pictures of the bumper tomorrow when it's not so dark, Redwolf

see my whole concern is, will the process in the video by bleepinjeep eat into the aluminum of the rim? Redwolf

1. Brake dust is dust -- it ALWAYS comes off. Spray it with aerosol brake cleaner. Done. Wash the wheels with Simple Green. Done. 2. The turbine wheels are not chrome. They are aluminum alloy, with polished flats and other surfaces left rough. i've tried the brake clean, it didn't work so i tried brake clean with a scrubby pad and it didn't work, it's super brake dust, and ok chrome or not, after i finally clean em, they're be the only thing on my jeep shiney and not black or red, Redwolf

i'm just curious bout it as i have a massive amount of brake dust build up that won't come off a rim and i'd like to paint mine black, i don't like chrome, never have never will, Redwolf

trust me i am gonna work on my other project first, i need that engine turnin right, but i'm just curious for when i'm out of projects, would that work or would it ruin the rim, Redwolf

i saw this on youtube by bleepinjeep and thought wouldn't this ruin the rim, what's yalls take cause if it don't, i got another project, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIhgyNaKKiQ&list=PLAF0D8C72B75A634B&index=104 Redwolf

round here nobody throws anything in the bed of my MJ but like quoted above, club runs/ meet and greets, my jeep becomes the closest trash can but i'd rather clean it out later than litter, Redwolf

shoot the gaskets are easy, plus i have access to the alldata program at work :) Redwolf

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot). The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing. Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps and there lies a problem, i don't have the jeep flywheel, i believe i have the flywheel out of a 93 sonoma, and the engine i'm usin from that sonoma didn't have the spot for a mechanical fuel pump so i already got an electric one :thumbsup: Redwolf You don't even know what engine you have. The Sonoma came with the 4.3 1993 gmc sonoma, it had a 2.8 in it, 93 was the last year the 2.8 used, trust me i know what engine i got cause i wanted to stay with the 2.8 since i did have plans to restore my MJ, Redwolf

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot). The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing. Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps and there lies a problem, i don't have the jeep flywheel, i believe i have the flywheel out of a 93 sonoma, and the engine i'm usin from that sonoma didn't have the spot for a mechanical fuel pump so i already got an electric one :thumbsup: Redwolf

then i don't need a harness, i never go fuel injection cause it cost more, i don't have the money nor the know how to add a cpu in the truck, Redwolf

alright, now i'm gettin confused due to askin too many questions, if i do the 3.4 conversion do i have to use a different wiring harness? Redwolf

figured this was the right spot for it, found some picknpull yards with comanches, not that i support pick n pull but i wanna see someone get some use out of the MJs, http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=23453&Lat=36.783616&Lng=-76.074000&Make=Jeep&Model=Comanche&Distance=25000 Redwolf

i know i do cause it's apparent i don't know what i'm doin but i can't afford to have my truck worked on by a shop let alone have no vehicle for however long Respectfully, you DON'T want to do a 4.0L conversion. Not on an '86. You want to do a GM 3.4L conversion. You won't be needing to hack and/or hammer your firewall, and the block is the same basic 60-degree V6 as the 2.8L so the engine itself is a bolt-in conversion, and will take the same transmission you already have. You would have a choice of staying with your carburetor, or keeping the GM MPFI and getting the engine room wiring harness to run it from the donor vehicle. alright, 3.4 conversion but didn't i need a different wireing harness when i swapped 2.8s? or would i only need the harness if i don't go carbed, Redwolf

yeah, i'm just hopin it don't go through, i wanna try to get either a new engine or a donor xj and do a 2.8 to 4.0 swap, but i have a feelin it'll be easier and cheaper to sell it to one of the idiots around here, Redwolf

i'm done adjusting valves, i'm done playin with the carb, i noticed this today when i was a wendys in the drive thru, my engine knocks like a rod is knockin :( Redwolf

i don't know how to test the oil pressure and i believe it was 150,000 somethin miles and i believe all the lifters are pumpin oil, there is no dry spot on any lifters, Redwolf I'm suggesting that your lifters may not be able to maintain an adjustment hydraulically any longer. 150K for 2.8 may be near it's life's end. it could be, i did pull that engine out of a junkyard, could i just buy the heads and fix the issue or would that be a new engine thing? Redwolf

i don't know how to test the oil pressure and i believe it was 150,000 somethin miles and i believe all the lifters are pumpin oil, there is no dry spot on any lifters, Redwolf

apparently, but it's workin for now, the vac gauges aint goin crazy, it runs smooth unless gunned then there's a slight clatter, Redwolf

ok here's where i'm at now, the MJ runs, if i gun the gas it clatters, dad worked on it this mornin and adjusted the valves again but only turned then 3/4s a turn, Redwolf

with the number one pistion at top dead center i adjusted number 1 5 and 6 intak valves till there was no movement on the pushrod then tighten the nuts 1 1/2 turns then i adjusted 1 2 and 3 exhaust valves the same way, with number 4 pistion at TDC i adjusted 2, 3 and 4 intake valvs then i adjusted 4 5 and 6 exhaust valves, all valves where adjusted till the pushrod had no movement and tighten an extra 1 1/2 turn just like the haynes manual says, my alldata program at work says, the only way i haven't tried is with the engine running, Redwolf