redwolf624

ok so this all started on aug 22nd when i rebuilt my carb, i slapped it on saturday but spent all day tryin to get it right, well my dad kinda sorta got it right but it clattered so tonight i started adjusting valves after i rerouted some vaccum lines, now my MJ don't stay runnin, it smells like i have oil bein burnt off an exhaust pipe and it runs rough as anything. I don't know what my next step would be other than to buy another engine, i even hooked a vac gauge to a vac line and the readin according to the book was weak or broken valve springs....well they're not broken i can tell ya that and they don't seem weak; again i just don't know what my next troubleshooting step would be, i'm bout ready to say screw it and either sell my MJ or buy another junkyard motor that'll last me another year Redwolf

so i started wiring relays friday night for the fog lights and it's bein a pain cause i don't remember where any of my wires went, but i'm gettin there, i'm sitll waitin to get some metal to bolt in that wonderful roll bar :D fog light relays Image Not Found Redwolf

well today i didn't get around to the relays or the turn signal cam (due to sleepin in) but i need get around to finishing the roll bar and paintin it and rebuildin the carb. The carb actually had to be rebuilt, my float level was high, my needle and seat were shot from the gas, and the seal on the accelerator pump road was ripped in half, that explains my engine performance problems. On another note, i have pictures of the tires (like promised) and the roll bar bein primed and finished when it's painted :D the rims the BFGs were on my turbine rims with the BFGs on em dad priming my roll bar with my brother's 89 eliminator in the background and painted :banana: Image Not Found Redwolf

$195 on sale $45 shipping $340 that I paid to the fabricator. $40 of that was a tip because he did such a good job. $200 for the welding, $100 for the finish grinding work. $580 - I could have welded it myself if I trusted my structural welding skills. Reviewing Nate's 4x4 design I would not use it for any serious recovery or towing. It does not bolt to the underside of the frame and the frame brackets do not have any side bracing to prevent bending. The shackle hangers are not welded to the frame brackets directly and rely on the four bolts holding the bumper to the brackets. the jcr shackle hangers aint welded to the frame brackets either are they? Redwolf

The shackle hangers on the JCR weld to the face of the bumper, the rear of the bumper, the two main mounting brackets, and the two secondary mounting brackets. They are essentially tow hooks with a bumper hanging off them. so the jcr would be more likely to be pulled off than the nates since the d ring mounts are only surface welded, my thing is i saw what happen to my bumper when i have it pulled from the center (it was also bein pulled upward but still the center is fubar) i just don't know which is better in the long run, the outside mounts like JCR or the inside mounts like Nates, i just don't want another warped bumper when i gotta get pulled out, Redwolf

Pretty sure the 4.0l won't either. Nates rear is through-welded tabs, You'll probably break the chain/rope long before it goes. havin the power to pull em off my be aint the issue, i'm just worried bout someone in my jeep club pullin my idiot self out of a mud rut and wankin me like last time, i got whip lash from it if that gives yall an idea of how bad he was wankin the jeep, also if i go somewhere on my own and get stuck but there's a truck there i'd like to have them pull me out if need be, Redwolf

so all said and done, price wise nates is cheaper, look wise jcr looks better, but how bout strength, durablity, those D-rings, how do they hold up, that's my main concern, Redwolf

just reliezed i never got around to postin the pictures of my tires, well i plan on gettin em put on my turbine rims so when that's done it'll be a pic of that, but i gotta 3 day weekend thanks to boss bein nice :banana: let the work begin, carb rebuild, roll bar sanding and relay wiring, and a new turn signal cam :D Redwolf

ok so i like the look of the jcr bumper for the comanche better than i do the nates 4x4 one but i was wonderin, has anyone ever bought one of the two, my whole concern is the D-ring tabs, the jcr one has the tabs more towards the bumber ends where nates tabs are more towards the hitch receiver, which would be better for offroad recovery? JCR OFFROAD http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJB/DIY-MJ-R.html NATE'S 4X4 http://www.nates4x4.com/Comanche_Rear_Bumper_p/mjr.htm Redwolf

thanks yxmj that's a boat load of helpful info bout specs and history on the MJs deffently will help me in the future Whoever you have been "told by" obviously doesn't know squat, so perhaps you should stop listening to them The rated payload for a stock Comanche was 1475. The payload for the Metric Ton pacgage was 2200 pounds. A )U.S.) ton is 2000 pounds, so a quarter ton is only 500 pounds. The basic Comanche carries nearly three times that, so it's a 3/4-ton. The metric ton carries MORE THAN a U.S. ton. You have here the most authoritative source of information about the Comanche. Why are you even paying attention to people who obviously have no clue? thanks for clearin that up eagle and i only believed my MJ was a 1/4 ton because when i load the bed half full of steel (which is normally around 900lbs) the back sags like i have blown shocks, Redwolf

No. It's a 3/4-ton pickup, why would you need to change the suspension? Do your homework -- there's nothing different from the 2WD to the 4WD models except the ride height, and in the Cherokee not even that changes. ok, i was told by a couple people that i'd have to put a heavier duty suspention on it, i was also told it was a 1/4 ton truck, Redwolf

You were told wrong. The AX-15 is a larger transmission, with a larger bellhousing that mates to the larger bolt pattern of the 4.0L block. It also takes a larger diameter throw-out bearing, and a larger spline diameter for the clutch disk. The AX-5 (as well as the AX-4) and the AX-15 both came in 2WD versions and 4WD versions. The difference is whether the transmission has a tail cone with a seal for the driveshaft yoke, or a rear housing with a bolt flange to which the transfer case can be attached. ok, glad i now know that, it'll make my hunt easier, now i have another question bout the 2wd to 4wd project, would i need to get a more "heavy duty" suspention? Redwolf

No. worth asking, so what's the difference between the ax5 and the ax15, i was always told the ax15 was the 4x4 version of the ax5, Redwolf

The AX-15 was used behind the 4.0 litre inline six and has an AMC bolt pattern, which your engine does not have. The AX-5 is used behind the 2.5 litre inline four and 2.8 litre vee six and uses the GM bolt pattern, which your engine does have. You cannot use an AX-15 from an XJ and expect it to bolt in. They made both 4wd and 2wd versions of every single transmission used in these things. They made 4wd AX-5s, so that is what you will need if you're pulling your stuff from a Jeep. Short answer: 5-speed 86 MJs had 4wd versions of the AX-5. ok so is 86 the only year of jeep that i could possibly pull a transmission from for my 4wd convertion? if it'll fit but like Minuit said the bolt pattern aint the same, could i take the bell housin off my AX5 and put it on the AX15? Redwolf

so i'm lookin hard for the AX15 tranny but i can't find any locally in the junkyards or from donor XJs but autozone sells em but according to autozones website the ax15 won't fit in the 86 2.8 MJ, if that's so how did the 5-speed 86 MJs get 4wd? Redwolf

4 liters is 244 cubic inches. Plug that into the formula, use 5,000 as the peak RPM, and do the math. But WHY would you use a carburetor on a 4.0L when the EFI is so much better? we don't know if the computer for the 4,0 works, just a back up option if it don't, Redwolf That's an expensive backup. You'll need a new fuel pump, because carburetors only want about 5 to 7 psi, not 40. You'll need a new distributor, because the one in the 4.0L Jeeps is controlled by the ECU. You'll probably need a new coil to go with the new distributor. And you'll need an intake manifold on which to mount the (expensive) new carburetor. I'd say you're looking at between $500 and $750, minimum, all to avoid buying a used or reconditioned ECU for a Renix 4.0L that you can probably find for $25. Doesn't sound like a great plan to me. that bein said eagle, could that be half the reason why my MJ runs like crap, the engine i put in it was a 2.8 out of a 93 sonoma and it was fuel injected, we used the distributor off the sonoma? Redwolf

just by using Engine size (in Cubic Inches) x Max RPMs of motor / 3456 = Max CFM from what eagle told me the cubic lnches was 244 i got 388, but i had to use 5500 for a peak RPMs, Redwolf

4 liters is 244 cubic inches. Plug that into the formula, use 5,000 as the peak RPM, and do the math. But WHY would you use a carburetor on a 4.0L when the EFI is so much better? we don't know if the computer for the 4,0 works, just a back up option if it don't, Redwolf

me, i have a 4.0 in a MJ in my back yard that the computer in the MJ may or may not work, just wondering if i do end up gettin the 4.0, Redwolf

ok so 300CFMs for a carb for the 2.8, say i could get my hands on a 4.0 but couldn't get the CPU, what CFMs would i need for a carb for a 4.0? Redwolf

See posts number 2 and 3. see post number 6, i don't know my max rpms, Redwolf

just jumped a bigger size on the MJ :banana: 30x9.50xR15 i'm one happy jeeper :D pictures will be posted tomorrow, Redwolf

but what CFM? Redwolf

yeah :fs1: Redwolf

so ok, i have a 93 gmc sonoma 2.8 and i don't know by max RPMs for the motor, how would i figure that out? also what would happen if i slapped a 500 CFMs carb on my truck? Redwolf