redwolf624

i only ask bout plasti dip cause a co workin swears by it and says if i mess up it peals off, and how would i prep a grille? i've never done plastic only metal, Redwolf

so i've got my MJ runnin better than ever, most the noises gone so now it's time to start messin with it agian :yes: i'm not a fan of the 10 slot grille at all, i actually want the 7 slot like a normal jeep but i've never seen a MJ or XJ with a 7 slotted grille, any jeep i can pull a 7 slotted grille off and mount right up to my MJ? also i do plan on paintin my MJ myself and doin a red/black theme (inside too) so i was wonderin has anyone painted their grilles, what could be a cheap job and if i don't like it an easy fix (i was thinkin plasti dip), Redwolf

alright, i'll check it agian tomorrow at work (more convenient) as far as the e brake, i'll probably get to it this weekend when i'm off, i aint too concerned bout it since i have a 5 speed but it's gotta work, Redwolf

so the comanche is runnin but when i take off or when i turn i can hear a grinding noise almost like a broken CV axle but i have the solid dummy axle in the front. i added some trans fluid to the trans before i closed the shop today and the grindin noise died down some but it's still there, any ideas? it sounds more like the engine area rather than the trans. also my parking brake slipped this mornin and now it just doesn't work all that well, it holds half way now how do i fix that? i'm sure i still have some vaccum leaks somewhere and i'll be lookin for those and i know i have an exhaust leak and where it's commin from (it's commin from the emission pipes off of the exhaust manifolds) what's the best sealent you've found that works with extreme heats? Redwolf

post count? there's no point in that, i'm actually lookin for answears and doin research, Redwolf

no rust under the manche or around the crossmemeber and i'd love to take a pic but i hate droppin transmissions and it did it with the trans out and crossmember off and i don't know bout pushin and pullin it together and away, Redwolf

deffently weird, the cab doesn't move just the frame, Redwolf

went to a local mud hole and i don't know what i did to finish the engine off but i blew it, spun rod barrings and the crankshaft had a lot of play in it, so i went to the junkyard and pulled another (i know i know...crappy engine) 2.8 out of a 89 firebird and just doin some slight tweakin on it to make it run better, but this is hopefully only temporary but as it looks i might be gettin a new MJ cause of off-roadin with a 2wd MJ in some really bad places :doh: but it was fun while it lasted :yes: takin the firebird 2.8 off the trailer the firebird on the engine stand waiting for everything to be put on it blown sonoma 2.8 empty engine bay :( didn't even have time to start cleanin it i honestly think it sits 3" higher with no engine :yes: putting the firebird engine together dropping it in finally :banana: Redwolf

been a while since i've posted on this, fixed the fog lights but they don't shut off with the hi beams :dunno: oh well, i'll get covers for em soon enough but no relays are in Redwolf

so me and my dad dropped my trans yesterday to see why my clutch wouldn't disengage and i noticed that when we took the crossmember out the frame bowed in, i can't remember if it did that last time or not...is this normal or is a new MJ in my future, Redwolf

yeah i'm startin to see why everyone has told me to just get a 87-92 MJ, thanks guys, i think i know everything i need to if i were to do it, Redwolf

pete i figured that much, my main issue is that firewall and wiring, how bout the dash gauges? it's been a dream of mine to drop a 4.0 in my MJ since i got it, Redwolf

alright guys, i keep gettin harassed by my local jeep groups when i'm gonna drop a 4.0 into my MJ, i've heard i can without cuttin the firewall but i've also heard i can't without cuttin the firewall. now i do know i will need a new trans, reposition the motor mounts and get the wiring and computer but what else would i need if i was to do this, would i have to cut the firewall any, just wanna get some questions out of the way, it'll be a way later project but it is a dream of mine to have my MJ have a 4,0, Redwolf

next light project idea, that actually sounds sweet and usefull, black hooks and black bedliner and a really dark corner with scrap metal around, deffently could use light like it, Redwolf

hey, we all know english is not by better subject lol, Redwolf

found out my engine code and what gasket set i used last time, my code is T and i used the gasket set for the MJ, i now have gaskets comin :D Redwolf

not that simple, auto part store wants to know the engine id code weather it's a T or a U that was the plan, i had too many left over gaskets last time Do you remember when and where you bought the gaskets from .If so Have the parts store check the sales history of each part number and see which one you bought . Is the firebird 2.8 the cross fire injection 2.8? yes i do remember, i just don't think autozone kept records more than a year, and i don't know what kinda fuel injection, i just know i got the motor and he scrapped the car the day later, rust eats a lot over 3 years of saving to restore a car, Redwolf

alright guys, i had to do this last year but can't remember to save my life how to find the engine id code, turns out my buddy had an old rust 89 firebird (with a 2.8) layin around his yard and let me wank the engine that way i could get my MJ running again...or atleast untill i can do the 2.5 swap like eagle keeps telling me to do :rotfl2: I already know i need to reuse my old oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover, water pump.....everything but the heads. but i can't remember, (when i installed the 93 sonoma 2.8) weather or not i used a gasket kit for the 93 2.8 or my MJ's 86 2.8 nor can i remember (like stated above) how to find the engine id code. Can anyone help me out with this, what gasket set do i use, how do i find an engine id code...what else will i need to know parts and code wise before i drop the 2.8 out of the firebird in? Redwolf

i'm havin the same problem but in a heavy rain on Hi you can notice a slightly faster blade movement than what low is, Redwolf

guys it's not that easy for me to find what yall are sayin to find, older jeeps in my area are either way over priced on craigslist or on the roads, rarely do you find an older jeep in a junkyard, now i am goin out to some of the other junkyards so picknpull won't be my only option but for me to get a 2.5 and the harness, i can not afford that, i'm only a part time worker and don't make a lot, that's why i ask what i ask, the cheaper route, i can't just go out and spend 500+ dollars for mod my jeep, i thought the moto for jeepers was "jeepers helpin jeepers" not help then give another jeeper crap cause he can't go a special mod route and he has to go the cheaper route cause that's what he can afford, Redwolf

If down time has to be minimized, you need the easiest, fastest swap or conversion you can find. That means that a 4.3L V6 is NOT a candidate. It was never used in the XJ/MJ. It's a completely different block (essentially a shortened small-block V8) that will require fabricating motor mounts, different transmission and/or adapters, different fuel delivery system -- it's as much work as doing a Chevy V8. For what it's worth, in the early days of NAXJA another member who lives about 5 miles from me was driving an 86 XJ with a 4.3L V6. I asked him if he thought it was a good conversion. He rolled his eyes and said "Never again!" Even a 3.1L or 3.4L GM V6 will require some work. You would have to rebalance your flywheel to use with those engines, and that means a machine shop bill. Now -- Pay attention to what we write and don't read what you want to read. The Jeep 2.5L is NOT -- I repeat NOT -- the GM Iron Duke 2.5L engine. You do NOT want a GM 2.5L engine. You need a Jeep/AMC 2.5L out of a Cherokee, Comanche, Wrangler, or Dodge Dakota. That engine was used in the MJ, even the '86, so physically it will bolt in with no adapters and no custom mounts. It will work with your transmission with no adapters -- the bell housing bolt pattern is the same. As I posted above, the oldest version (only in XJs) used a carburetor. Your best choice would be the MPFI engine, but that would mean a bit more work because you'll also have to get the engine room wiring harness and ECU to run it. Back in the late 1990s, Jeep was selling a MPFI conversion for the 4.2L Wrangler I6 engine, which came from the factory with a carburetor. The conversion kit was basically the MPFI setup and engine room harness from the newer, 1994 Wrangler with the 4.0L engine. So ... if the controls for the 1994 4.0L can be split out and used as a stand-alone conversion, if you get a 2.5L with the wiring harness I see no reason you can't install that as a stand-alone. If you are considering the mid-generation of the 2.5L with the throttle-body injection, consider that if the injector goes bad it sells for about $130. The newer MPFI models use the same injectors as the 4.0L engines of the same years. ok, so the 3.1 and 3.4 will need my flywheel balanced. 2.8 just slaps in no questions asked. but the 2.5 will fit but i'll have to go with the wiring harness and MPFI route, how bout an old dodge 1.8 carbed? i actually saw one out at picknpull yesterday, Redwolf

And see, here is my main issue, i only have a part time job and my last paycheck was 480 after taxes, i don't have enough fot a donor or a rebuilt, or to slap new parts on an engine, i gotta use what i got and get another junkyard engine, its all i can afford right now, my MJ is my daily driver and to be down this long is bad for me, Redwolf

So as long as i stay with a 60 degree engine i should be good right? Redwolf

1993–1995 Chevrolet Camaro 1993–1995 Pontiac Firebird Plus 1984 - 2000 Jeep Cherokee/Comanche 2.5L (I don't think they offered the 2.5L in 2001. It was used through 2003 in the Wrangler.) Yeah, yeah, I know -- it's only a 4-cylinder and you have six. Consider this: 1984-1986 2.8L V6: 115 hp @ 4,800 RPM, and 145 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,400 RPM 1984-1985 2.5L I4: 105 hp @ 5,000 RPM, and 132 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,800 RPM (Carbureted) 1986-____ 2.5L I4: 105 hp @ 5,000 RPM, and 132 ft-lbs of torque @ 2,800 RPM (TBI) 1987-1990 2.5L I4: 121 hp @ 5,250 RPM, and 141 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,250 RPM (TBI) 1991-2003 2.5L I4: 130 hp @ 5,250 RPM, and 150 ft-lbs of torque @ 3,250 RPM (MPFI) You can see that even the original, carbureted version of the 2.5L is very nearly equal to the 2.8L V6. Once you get the 1987 the 4-cylinder out-performs the V6, and the 1991 and newer multiport version is significantly better than the V6 in horsepower, as well as slightly better in torque. The 2.5L will bolt right up to your transmission, and it won't eat it. You can also find the same 2.5L engine in Dodge Dakota pickups of the same vintage. thanks eagle, everyone one's insistin on the 3.4, i can't really find a 3.4 in my area, i can find more 2.5 in GMs than i can the 3.4 now my next question, if i was to go away from the 2.8 and go to a 2.5 or 3.4, would the stuff i have for my 2.8, alt, distributer, PS pump, all that good stuff work on the other engines or would i have to get everything for that engine and how bout the 4.3.....i can find those all day long at the junkyard, Redwolf

well i replaced the 12 push rods cause 3 were bent, now it makes no sound on the top but it knocks on the bottom, what size engines can i use that will bolt up to my ax5 trans and not eat it up? Redwolf