mjeff87

I've since gotten them, but don't have a pic handy. They are two L shaped brackets that attach to the front of the bracket and the other end bolts to the chassis sheet metal below the radiator opening. Jeff edit....here's a real good shot of them in this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... k+brackets

I can't comment on the whole stroker thing other than to refer you to Dino (Dr. Dyno). He's the "guru" of stroking a 4.0L. Have you seen the strokers group on Yahoo? Good luck! Jeff

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html Jeff

Good deal :cheers: If you ever have to do it again, get a couple extra bell bolts and cut the heads off of them, screw them into the engine loosely, and use them as guide pins...makes reinstallation and lining up the input alot easier (especailly if you're working by yourself and don't have a tranny jack :cry: ). Or better yet, replace the bolts with studs/nuts permanently. Jeff

what part of the COVA is your lair in? I'm in Richmond, and Pat (pingpong) is on the peninsula....the "bottom" one whatever it's called :D Jeff

I'm going from memory (I've had my tranny in/out 4 times so far...don't ask why), but I'm pretty sure on all that. There may be one additional bellhousing bolt above the starter area, tho, now that I think about it some more. Jeff

hehe....I feel your pain. I did the exact same thing the first time I pulled my AX5 :roll: That was a hard lesson learned. What I do now is take a large piece of cardboard and as I pull out a bolt, punch it thru the cardboard in the pattern where it came from. Makes install quick and easy. (I know it's not any help to you now, but...... ;) ) You should have 5 large bolts total (2 larger than the others and one of them has a nut also), plus 2 small bolt/nut sets, and one large nut. Here’s a pic of the rear of the engine showing the bolt locations. I do know that the two largest bolts go in the top two spots, and the other ones go in the spots around the side, one at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, and the last one with the nut goes at 7 o'clock. The lower left hole is a bolt and nut combo, and the lower right one is just a nut that attaches to that rod attached to the side of the engine. The two small (3/8” I recall) bolt/nuts hold the dust shield in place (don’t forget to put it in place before you mate the tranny to the engine…..it’s a PITA to get in there if you forget it (ask me how I know). Those go in at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. I’ve got some extra bellhousing bolts in my parts pile should you need any, just let me know. Have fun! Jeff Edit: also, the bolt at 10:00 holds a clip for the CPS wire, and the one at 2:00 holds a clip for the wiring harness that goes to the back of the tranny on that side. Don’t forget to put those back in, otherwise you’ll have both harnesses laying on the bellhousing/engine and they’ll probably eventually wear/melt thru and cause problems. Image Not Found

Congrats! Looking beastly, to say the least. I'm doing a Crown Vic disk swap onto my '44 as well....might be PM-ing you for some low-down on it :D Jeff

you gotta be kidding us, right???? :roll: Ther'd be one NAPA store crossed off my list, right there.... But, look at the good side of things.....you got all of the BS out of the way up front, so the install's gonna go off without a hitch :cheers: unless you didn't pick up an E12 socket for the upper bellhousing bolts I'll have one, two...well, maybe several in your honor tonight (actually now). I'll offer them up as pledges to the Jeep Gods, that NOTHING else goes wrong for you :D

Of course it's a JEEP, it says so right there on my steering wheel :D and my tailgate, too.... Jeff

Here's a really good writeup by XJ_Ranger (Opie) when he did his front bumper: http://www.opiebennett.com/tech/frontbumper/index.php (just disregard the yellow paint......it's a thing with him :D ) Jeff

Here's a pic of stock tow hook brackets for reference, so you can see how they tie into the framerails (there are two bracket pieces not shown that also are used). The stock bumper bolts to the front of the brackets. I've got a hella stout rear bumper that pingpong made waiting to go on the back of mine (very soon), but I don't have pics of it right here....I'll snap some tonight and post them. Pat used the stock mounting brackets in the design.....it'll give you a good idea. Anyways, here's the brackets for the front: Image Not Found Jeff

prolly an 84-85 XJ with the 228/229 TC.

AFAIK, they're the same animal....but the ZJ tie rod and drag link are thicker than XJ/MJ. But, they would all be non-disco, and 297x joints in them, unless they are CV shafts Jeff

I've got a set of V8 ZJ coils I pulled out of the junkyard, but haven't put them in yet. Word on the street is they'll gain 1/2-3/4", but I'm hoping for a little bit more, considering my MJ is a 2.5 and was 2WD originially. I'm planning on a combo of the springs and some spacers to even out a homebrew lift (still staying SUA) with a new-to-me 4WD MJ rear springpack and an AAL. I'm hoping to net 2.5-3" of lift total, or thereabouts 8) Lemme know how those coils work out for you..... Jeff

Eagle's got most of New England covered..... :cheers: I'd take Virginia myself, but my wife says otherwise :nuts: Jeff

I recently had to UPS an MJ rear bumper to TX to another member on here, who incidentally already had one UPS'd to him from OH, so we both had a general idea on how much shipping was gonna be. Well.....I took it to the store one Saturday, and let's just say "when the cats are away, the mice will play" The store was manned by two pimply-faced kids who were more interested in eating the pizza they just got than helping any customers who walked in. Didn't know how to weigh it, couldn't get the computer to work, wouldn't offer any insurance on it in case it got "damaged" in transit because it wasn't in a box. They finally came up with a price....$75 or so (which we knew wasn't correct, it should have been more like $30). They offered to box it up with official UPS box material :roll: for only $104 more. Yeah, right...... I took it away, found a big long box at work and packaged it, took it back the next day when the MANAGER was there, and got it gone for a total cost of $34. Sunzabishes..... Jeff

So.....you need another TC skid yet? :razz: Who's the guy in the gray colored rig? Looks like he can walk over anything Jeff

Go in and print one page a day......you'll have it all by September 30th :D (yeah, I figured it out......slow day here at work :chillin: ) Jeff

knew you'd come to your senses 8) You still looking for a -15, or do you have one?

For all you auto tranny folks out there :nuts: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... manual.PDF Jeff

It's an even 42" Jeff

I can measure the D44 I have (sitting in a wheelbarrow beside my deck at the moment :oops: ) when I get home from work tonight. Whaddya want, spring pad center-to-center? Anything else? Jeff

You're adjusting the "over-center preload" Don't worry too much.....if you overadjust it, the worm gear will bind and you'll feel it. Just adjust the slop out of the wheel, and leave a little bit of play in it. You'll know it when you dial it in, it'll "feel" right :) Jeff

That nut on the top of the steering box that you saw is the adjuster. It's a locknut with an allen head setscrew inside of it. Loosen the nut, then turn the allen screw inwards, in very small increments while checking the play after each adjustment, until the slack is taken up, then retighten the nut. Be very careful not to overadjust because it will ruin the box if it's too tight. Good luck! Jeff