mjeff87

Make two sets, and I'll buy one of them from ya. Seriously..... Jeff

yeah....but they gave you 9 extra gallons of gas, though :cheers: :nuts: Jeff

I'm gonna hang on to them until I get these new ones in, just in case I need to play around with matching front/rear heights. I've actually got 2 sets of them, along with 2 V8 ZJ tierods (one of them is going on my MJ, too :D ) Are you looking for a pair? Jeff

How true that is. About 3 years ago, my brother's-girlfriend's-brother's neighbor (LOL) was throwing away a generator. Apparently it stopped running and he tried to fix it and gave up, so he was tossing it out. He took the shroud and starter off and cut a bunch of wires off the oil switch and magneto, and never bothered to put it back together. The packrat that I am took it and stashed it in my bro's garage. Last year, I hauled it down here to VA, and stashed it under my deck. Last weekend, instead of working on the MJ :oops: I decided to tear it apart. Half a day later, $25 in parts and a quart of oil, and she started on the 4th pull This weekend I tore it all down again and cleaned it, changed the oil, and painted the frame. The only thing I need yet is the rubber isolator under the back of the generator frame (the original one is ripped in half). Here's a couple pics. It's a 5000W Devilbiss with a 10hp Briggs engine (but it has an 8hp shroud on it :D ): when I first got it three years ago: Image Not Found Image Not Found got it running, notice the ratchet-strap “sling” to hold the end up, and the bootyfab ignition switch I rigged up: Image Not Found Image Not Found all cleaned up and painted: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I'm'a heading to the 'yards tomorrow....lemme see what I can find. PM me your cell # again (I lost it) and I'll call ya if I find something. Jeff

The rear coils and spacers were already gone (no bother to me :D ) I searched all over those front coils and can't find a number on either of them, anywhere. They might even be 3" lift....they are 1" taller than stock ZJ V8 coils (I've got a pair of them I was going to use), and they are a tad bit thicker. Jeff

No, he's already sold the rolling chassis and the auto tranny to some guy in Florida. I love old iron, too ;) Jeff

Well, I wasn't planning on going SOA....but a visit to the junkyard last Saturday changed all that. Chuck and I stumbled across a V8 ZJ, and I was going to pull the tie rod on it, when we happened to see some red parts on it. Lo and behold, the ZJ was lifted. An hour later, it wasn't :brows: The guys at the counter were less than happy when we wheeled the stuff up to pay for it, because apparently they JUST put it out that morning, and one of the staff was supposed to be coming down tomorrow to pull all of it. Too bad, too sad for him....he shoulda pulled it as soon as they set it down. $32 later, we got all this Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found 2" V8 ZJ lift coils (Skyjacker, maybe?) 1.5" Teraflex spacers, plus a new set of stock isolators 2 RS9000X shocks (front) 2 RS9000 shocks (rear) The coils and the spacers/isolators ought to get me near 5” in the front, or close to that, so I guess I should SOA the rear to match it. Jeff

Not quite, but it is a 'Cuda.....1962 vintage :brows: My neighbor bought this heap just for the 340 in it, to replace the 383 in his '73 Duster (but he's already resold the rest of it to somebody in FL). Last weekend, we yanked the drivetrain...what an adventure :nuts: because a 340 wasn't there originally. The PO shoehorned it in there, and I do mean shoehorned. The 'Cuda (ain't it a real looker?): Image Not Found The 340: Image Not Found Image Not Found it's out (in the dark :cry: ): Image Not Found

Yup....it's a combination of RENAULT and BENDIX. Jeff

THAT is the cat's azzzz......nice work! Jeff

Howdy from Richmond :cheers: Where 'bouts in Nova are you? Jeff

Yeah, we run front license plates here in VA as well as rear ones (although when I saw it, it was on a car in front of me and I was looking at the back plate)

:cheers: If it ani't broke...fix it 'till it is! Jeff

CAD wouldn't affect the VSS. You can pull the sensor out and chuck the gear end up in a drill and spin it up to see if it's giving any output (and check to see if the gear is in good condition). I'm'a heading to the 'yard tomorrow, and can grab you a VSS if your's checks out bad. Lemme know.

Oops...I keep thinking you're still running your '86. I'd still check to see if the sender hasn't rotated away any, that'll still cause problems. Check for continuity on the sending unit, and also check the wiring harness from there to the speedo. Maybe you got a pinch in the wiring? Do your other gauges work? There should be a small fuse (5A or so) in the block for the instrument cluster...see if it's good or not.

Either the cable snapped, or it came loose on either end. Check it where it screws into the TC to see if it's worked loose or fallen out. If good, check it at the back of the cluster. It's held in by either a metal tang or the other version has a plastic clip on the end that you have to squeeze to unlock the locking tabs on it (think of a cap on the top of a bottle of mouthwash....just about the same principal :D ) If both ends check out, either the cable snapped or the speedo gear inside the TC is stripped/broken, or has lost contact with the output shaft. The little C clamp that holds the sender housing in the case may have loosened (it's held by one bolt), and the sender might have rotated a bit, too. That would cause the speedo gear at the end to loose contact. It's purely mechanical...nothing electrical in there at all (for your model year). Jeff you can drive it like that, tho (unless the speedo housing has completly fallen out of the TC :nuts: ....you'll loose fluid. Just don't speed ;)

AAAAAAHAAAAA!!!!! I get it now......I think. "vanity-plate"? too much of a thinker. I actually saw this on a plate here in VA a couple months ago: ANIGAV I'll PM anyone who wants to know the significance of that. It's a bit, ummm, non-family oriented. Couldn't believe the DMV actually gave it out. Jeff

It's taken me a day, and I still can't get it.... :cry:

that doth bringeth on the suck.....but the pics are neat. Looks like your taillights and plate light are out, tho. Might wanna get that checked out before 5-0 stops ya. Jeff

You're getting hosed, bro. Although I can't say for certain what the safety inspection points are up there, from that list I can only see two things that would fail safety here in VA where I'm at....the brake lines and the rear plate illumination, and maybe the battery hold down. Do your shops have to post a list of the inspection points somewhere in the establishment that's viewable by the customers? If so, ask the shop owner to show you specifically where your shocks, window crank, and PS pump show up on the list.....failing that, find out who regulates the safety inspection shops in your jurisdiction and have a chat with them (in VA, they are regulated by the State Police). Sounds like someone's trying to make a few hundred $$$ in unneeded repairs to me. Jeff edit: I do know that in VA you have to have an operational DRIVERS side window (crank has to work if manual, motor has to work if power). It's an old dead-letter law on our books, and it's a throwback to the days when operators used hand signals out the window to indicate turns. Why it's still on the books.....I have no idea :nuts:

Are you talking about the heater core valve? It's a little vaccuum operated motor that opens/closes a valve in a plastic housing to allow coolant to flow thru the heater core when you switch the HVAC control to "heat". Should only be about $10-$15 at any competent parts house (that's one of those parts I would replace with new vs. a junkyard part....you're liable to get one just as bad as your original from the 'yard :cry: ) You can pull the heater core hoses off of what's left of that motor housing and connect them together with a barbed fitting/short piece of piping and a couple hose clamps until you get the replacement part. You just won't have any heat. I'd gently plug the heater core inlet/outlets if you do that to keep any nasties out of the core. Be very gentle with those pipes also...you don't want to snap one off, or you'll have to replace the core itself. Jeff

just one injector. Here's the pic from the FSM: Image Not Found Remove air filter elbow and hose. Connect tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4. Remove screw plug and install fuel pressure test fitting. NOTE: Fuel pressure test fitting is not included with throttle body. Fitting (8983 501 572) must be obtained separately. 2) Connect fuel pressure gauge to test fitting. Start engine and increase speed to approximately 2000 RPM. Turn Torx head screw at bottom of regulator to set correct pressure. Turning screw inward increases pressure and turning screw outward decreases pressure. See Fig. 3. 3) All models require fuel pressure of 14.5 psi (1.0 kg/cm Like I said, I didn't find any type of adjustment screw on mine. YMMV :D Jeff

Fuel pressure should be 14.5 psi. The FSM claims the regulator is adjustable via a torx screw on the underside, but I could find no such thing on my TB :nuts: in the past when I was trying to diagnose an intermittent stumbling problem (turned out to be the O2 sensor anyways). Lemme see if I can figure out how to post the pic from the FSM that shows the "adjustmet" thingy..... Jeff

Just remember to disco the battery first, even if you are just pulling it off the engine to inspect things (and not actually removing it). Learned that the hard way a long time ago, when I was in the army. Pulling a starter off a deuce (24V) and didn't disco the battery......positive post hit the framerail and it was like the 4th of July. I honestly thought I was going to die...... Be safe. Jeff