mjeff87

That looks like fun......not! Jeff

Picked up a gallon of EZ SLIDE at the local Tractor Supply Co. today...$21.99. I screwed around with tring to press out the old bushings for about a total of 20 minutes this morning, then took them to the shop. They're gonna press out the old ones and press in the new ones (both ends of the leaves and the shackles) for $15....best money I ever spent ;) Jeff

The larger main vac line is, but the smaller one is rigid (the one that goes to the heater controls...but nothing you couldn't cut and splice in a piece of regualr rubber vaccuum line into ;) Here's how I'm gonna plumb the OBA....simple, clean, functional: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=905549 Jeff

There's plenty of room along the inner fender area behind the coil/relay center, or above the blower (under the pressure bottle for the closed system guys). My OBA system already made a down payment on that piece of real estate :D You can stick it anywhere it'll fit...just run the vac lines to it.

It stores vaccuum, mostly for the HVAC system. Jeff

My MJ (and me) came from PA. It's a wreck compared with the MJ's I crawl underneath at the junkyards down here in VA :cry:

Sexy....nice clean install too. :cheers: Jeff

I was doing some cleanup on the front end today, and decided to finally move the vacuum canister from where it’s stock mounted inside the bumper. I was originally going to put it inside the engine bay back on the passenger side corner above the blower motor but that’s where I’m going to route/mount the manifold and whatnot for the OBA. I had the grill off and noticed a good place to stick it behind the grill on the side of the radiator support. It worked out great. I have the small “ball” canister, but it seems that there would be plenty of room to mount the “football” shaped canister in about the same area. Here’s some pics. Jeff Moved from the bumper to here: Image Not Found Profile….plenty of room: Image Not Found Routed the hoses thru: Image Not Found Can’t even see it ;) : Image Not Found

Don, Check your PM's.... :D Jeff

Eagle, I don't throw anything away (ask my wife.....well, maybe you shouldn't :D ) The old packs will just find their way into the parts pile for reuse-reutilization someday, somewhere. I'm going to the Tractor Supply Co. tomorrow and picking up a gallon of EZ-SLIDE. I'm gonna paint with that, and slather anti-seize inbetween the leaves. I'll post pics alomg the way. Thanks y'all! Jeff

It may be a Jeep...but it's still a pickup truck;) Most recent haul was 2 engine blocks, a bunch of scrap, and a YJ frame (cut up) to the scrap yard...about 1000#. Unforunately, my stock leafpacks are SHOT....hence the new ones going in with the SOA :brows: Current 2WD packs (don't laugh....) Image Not Found

Update, correct part #'s are: J813 0853 seal J813 0854 O-ring Both in stock, about $1.50 each....picking them up after work tonight. Jeff

I meant graphite, not silicon (oops...) Woody was the one I was talking about. Here's the thread JIC anyone's intersted in it: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... hite+paint I got to see/handle the packs firsthand before he installed them, and they were sweet. Wonder what they look like now :evil: think I'll PM him for an update. He did say that teflon padding was muy $$$, tho. Jeff

Well, parts monkey (me) was looking at the wrong IPL. I was looking at a 229, not a 231 (which would explain the "discontinued" part I suppose) There's an o-ring and a seal listed for the 231, but there are 2 different ones of each depending on the manufacture date and # of the case. I don't have the MJ here with me to get that info :headpop: so it looks like I'll be doing this next weekend.....my TC came out of a '90 XJ behind an AW4, so I gotta eyeball the #'s. Crap. Jeff

I need the seal for my 231 that seals the input shift rod, on the side of the case. The dealership part # is 8350 4727, but when I tried to order it, they said it had been discontinued and there are none available anywhere, anymore. Apparently, they aren't supposed to wear out and start leaking :nuts: Does anyone know where I can get it from? Jeff

So I've got these new-to-me leafpacks, which I need to clean up before I hang them under the MJ. I'm going to replace the bushings and clips, but what do y'all suggest I paint them with while I have them apart? I might do this tomorrow, if the weather down here cooperates :) A NAXJA buddy of mine used some type of silicon-based "slippery" paint, and installed teflon pads inbetween the leafs, but that's a bit overkill for me (they did look nice and function well, but were expensive to do) TIA, Jeff Image Not Found

That was from Rob L's website...sadly, he's no longer in the MJ scene :cry: Also on that site you'll find he had a mini-junkyard of sorts of lots of MJ stuff (interior, engines, body parts, etc....). He's since sold all that stuff to girsmj86, another guy on this board, along with that nice 91 Eliminator you see pictured. If you need MJ stuff, give him a shout...he probably has it. Jeff

Here's a start for ya: http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/photo6.html Jeff

If you can get it from there to somewhere around southwest PA, I can get it from there down to VA for you. We can tag-team it the whole way down thru the country..... Jeff

It's actually a cue ball :brows: I suppose an 8 ball would match a little better, but I wasn't thinking that the night I "borrowed" it from a local club :D Jeff

Nice Don.....but they're not CHROME :D

It's the piece inside the differential housing that the ring gear bolts to, and encases the spider gears. Most axles have a "break", which means the physical size of it changes depending on what gearset is run on it. As the pinion tooth count decrease the pinion gear gets smaller, which moves the pinion teeth away from the ring gear teeth. A different carrier is then required which spaces the ring gear closer to the pinion. You can, however, use a low set carrier with deeper gears, but you have to purchase special "thick cut" gears.

Could be the ballast resistor, if yours has one. Look on the innder driverside fender for a white skinny ceramic block with a wire at each end. It's intended to reduce voltage to the pump (in the run position) to help cut down the pump noise. Yours may be overheating as voltage runs thru it and loosing continuity. You can safely bypass it by connecting the wires in/out of it together to see if it's the problem. If it stays running, you can replace it, or just leave it "jumped"....your pump will be a bit noiser, but at least it'll work :) Lemme see if I can find a pic of it, if you don't know what/where it is.... Jeff edit: here's a pic: Image Not Found

same axle, but it's low pinion.

If you can wait a couple months, and plan on being anywhere near eastern VA, I'll sell you the one under my MJ now for cheep ;) I'm too short of cash right now to get the D44 I have regeared to replace the '35 in the back (4.56's). I already have a D30 geared 4.56, but don't want to run mismatched axles and loose 4WD. PM me if you're interested. Jeff