mjeff87

Thanks guys.... Don, I dunno. It still runs fairly well, plus I have a complete spare 2.5 sitting in the barn up in PA that I was gonna drop in at some point. It doesn't really have alot of power, but in 4LO it pulls like a billy goat (which is how I built it). Next plans are 297x shafts in the front (have them already), redo the disconnect to manual switch vaccuum so I can have 2LO, a front locker, and a tranny/clutch/flywheel swap. When I do that, I'm thinking about adding an inertia ring to the back of the flywheel. If I do decide to swap the engine, I'm torn between a 4.0 or saying screw it and going SB Mopar with a 340. My neighbor has one he'd give me, but I really don't want to go back to a carb, and not sure I'm competent enough to wire in FI even with a kit :oops: Jeff

you should slap your 33 MT's on yours. They'll fit....if not, we have sawzalls :D Jeff

Got some 33’s on with Cragar D-slot steelies, 3.75” BS: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Jerry and I also cut the front of the fenders on both our MJ’s: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

anybody ever tell you you look like Paul Tuttle Sr.? :D :D :D

dat's what I'm talkin' about, Willis......

eeeesss a Corona, sorry Don ;) That pic is a bit south of mainland USA....Grand Cayman last year, at their Senor Frog's. Place sucked as far as atmosphere goes....that was 11:00 AM, and all the fuddy-duddys were just coming in for lunch. Baloon hats, shooters, and my version of karaoke didn't really appeal to them too much :dunno: Cozumel is where it's at Jeff

FWIW, I'd say go longarms. I did mine on a budget with fixed LCA's one inch longer than stock (thanks Pat!), and ended up having to drop coin on adjustable UCA's too. My CA angles are "ok" but I'd be able to get alot more axle droop with longarms. The $$$ you spend in drop brackets and control arms puts you close to a good LA setup. They're in my future, but for now I'm gonna run as-is until things start breaking :D Jeff

I'm Jeff, and I drive an '87 MJ......... :cheers: Image Not Found

ahhhh, thanks! (this SWB world is all new to me). Wasn't making sense that the TJ was getting almost as bad gas mileage as the MJ :roll: (per the odometer) Gotta figger out what speedo gear I need and swap it out. :cheers: Jeff

**small thread hijack** FWIW, I'm a new TJ owner...bone stock 2.5L with 4.10's, 31's and an AX5. I'm a bit surprised at just how crappy these things are on mileage. I wasn't expecting too much, coming from a DD car that got 35-40 mpg, but it's only averaging about 17-18 (filling up consistently around 1/4 tank and 225-240 miles, it's been taking 13.5 gallons or so). I know it's like driving a toaster on wheels, but honestly was expecting about 20. I'm not crazy with the pedal, either. Were 31's stock on these things? I've got aftermarket aluminum wheels on it, and am thinking maybe the PO swapped tire sizes but didn't change the speedo gear (???) So far, I've changed the oil, tranny and TC fluids, cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Gonna do the diffs and give it a coolant flush, then everything will be new once again. ....now back to your regularly scheduled thread....thanks :D Jeff

Yeah, they come off easily. The only problem you might encounter would be the lower shock bushings being "stuck" on the mounts, especially if they're stockers. You can pry them from behind or beat them off with a blunt weapon of your choice, but you can also hook them both together with a ratchet strap and pull them both off the lowers at the same time by tightening the strap. Once you get the lowers off, you can twist/spin each of them while pulling to get them off the upper mounts. Use plenty of PB on the mount bolts/studs beforehand if they've never been off before. Jeff

X elevnty-billion ;) Jeff

"el taco de muerte"....... :D Jeff

I wasn't the one who posted "Vato" pics, now was I? :D I was nice..... Those drop shackles seemed to do the trick, but we might need to reposition that AAL. I'm free this weekend, but am on call again, so if ya wanna wrench it some more, let me know. Yer place or mine, doesn't matter...... I'll bring the TB, too.

IN c'mon guys (and gals)....let's make it happen this year. We gotta start putting some faces with the names on here ;) Jeff

yeah, had to run it thru some goop near the house just to make sure everything was working. It is (but I need a longer front driveshaft) :cheers: Jeff

Few more pics of the frontend.Jeff Coils and discos: Image Not Found UCA’s: Image Not Found from the rear: Image Not Found MJ and TJ :D: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Redid the front axle today, with the gracious help of Jerry and my neighbor. Pulled the ZJ coils out, and took the lower part of the ACOS out (left the rest, plus the stock isolator), and installed some 5.5” TJ coils. Got the RE adjustable UCA’s in, set to 16.5”, which got my caster and pinion angle back, and installed a set of JKS quicker disconnects to finish it all up. I’ll put the front DS back in tomorrow, but here’s a couple pics of what we all did today….it rides sooooo much better now. Just have to adjust the trackbar about ½” longer to recenter the axle, and all will be perfect :D I've got about a 3/4-1" rake, which is what I was hoping for... 33X12.5's coming, next week :brows: Jeff Parts to go in: Image Not Found all the old stuff out: Image Not Found TJ springs versus ZJ springs :D: Image Not Found done: Image Not Found

being able to "read" a plug tip's condition goes a long way toward preventive maintenence. Plus, I've yet to find a better running plug in any XJ/MJ engine than the plain-Jane Champion :)

I swapped an XJ cluster into mine that has the low fuel light, and have the same question. I never let it get lower than 1/4 tank, but my sending unit isn't very accurate anymore.....I just fill up around the 150-175 mile mark on the odo, about 9.5 gallons every time consistenly :cry: Jeff

Not sure if the compressor dimensions changed or not, but I just did plugs/cap/rotor/wires on my 01 TJ 2.5 last weekend. It took me about 20 minutes of rooting around in my toolbox, but I finally found the right size 5/8" plug socket, a 3/8" universal joint, and a small 3/8" extension and got on the plug. Had to snake the socket down over/behind the compressor and blindly guide it over top of the plug, get it seated, then fish the UJ down onto it. What a lovely pain in the azz that was, lemme tell ya. I'm having second thoughts now on adding a factory A/C compressor to my MJ for OBA after going through all that! Jeff

Stock MJ/XJ/YJ wheels are 5.25" backspacing. You can run 10.5" wide tires on the stock wheels safelyand still keep them inside the fenders.....you'll barely rub the LCA's in the front at full lock, which you can fix by adjusting the steering stops or just remember to not turn the wheel the whole way on tight turns. The real problem happens in the back, with the space between the inner sidewall and the framerail. My 31X10.5's have about 5/8" clearance. You can alleviate that and run a wider tire with either wheel spacers or wheels with less backspacing, but then you end up contacting the flares (unless you trim them). Jeff 31X10's on stock YJ aluminum wheels (5.25" BS): Image Not Found

that just made me spit my morning coffee on my monitor......thanks Jim! :D Jeff

"fit" as in thread into the bung? They are all the same thread/pitch as far as I know...the difference is in the signal wires, 1 or 2, and if it has a pre-heater (3-wire). All of the MJ sensors I've come across are three wire ones-one is supply voltage, one is return/reference voltage to the ECU, and one is the heater wire. Anyone....please correct me if I'm wrong on this. I'm just going on what I "think" I know about O2 sensors here (and FWIW, mine's currently unplugged on my MJ because it's causing stumbling issues once it warms up....) Jeff

yes.....and yes ;) Jeff