HOrnbrod

X2 on thanks for the pics. Unfortunately will not fit my rig because of the dual exhausts :oops:

Looks good. What is the size of the receiver? 2" or 1-1/4"? Thanks

Roger mate, and thanks for the help offer mjcanoe. Yes, can use some pro expertise occasionally. You should be a very valuable asset to this forum, and you're a short drive away, and would like to see your rig. Shoot me a PM when you get a chance.

Yeah, that's my rig canoe. Strictly a street queen though, and occasional camping/towing/hauling. Live in a little town about 20 miles south of Huntsville. Retired Navy, then Army, now have a small automotive business to keep busy and help put the two girls through college. Love the MJ as we all do on this forum, and they are super rigs, no matter what you use them for.

Feel the same way about the several Saab Monte Carlos I had too. 850cc's of screaming 2-stroke. They would rev so high you couldn't hear them anymore. No valve adjustments either.............

Renault Dauphine! Wow mjcanoe, that was another era. I realize we're drifting a bit off topic here, but Mopar also developed another engine way back in the '60's specifically designed to lower the overall engine height and eliminate hood "bumps", the 30-degree slant six. Below is a pic of a blown slant six; @ 4250RMP this puppy cranks out 340.3ft/lbs of torque and 275.4 HP, and fits under a Valiant hood with no mods except a small cutout in the inner left fenderwell for the carb cold air intake. A bit wild for the street in this configuration, but a de-tuned version I think would be an ideal candidate for an MJ. Lot lighter too. The old slant six has a rep for reliability arguably as good as or better than the AMC 4.2/4.0L engines due to the use of Hemi rods, and modified crank. Lot of talk over at the strokers forum about this. Now this would be nice in an MJ.......

You must be referring to the Mopar Ram Induction "Long Ram" and "Short Ram" intake manifolds Chrysler introduced in the early '60's. Long Ram, exhaust heated Short Ram, water heated

Will do Rick-man.

I did this CCV mod from MadXJ site (http://www.madxj.com/); '93 XJ to '00 XJ CCV Upgrade from the "Engine" section. It completely eliminated blowby on my old 91 HO engine. Not sure if it will work on the Renix engines, but it might.

Yes, that's what I remember - now. I tried putting one of these in a few years ago, and the backlight did not work. Must come in on a different wire; should be an easy fix. Thanks for jogging my memory.

Hey Rick, long time no hear. You back in business in an MJ yet??

I think in 1993 the OEM XJ radio started coming with a clock option, like below. Has anyone tried plugging one of these into our older MJ's w/o clocks on the radios? Everything work? Thanks

I too have the column shift in my 91 and replaced the "idiot light" cluster w. the full gauge cluster, and lost the A/T shift indicator. Thought about moving to a floor shifter, but liked the column shift better. So for the shift indicator I used one of the kits from Ididit, pictured below, only the 3-speed version. Simple, easy, and worked well.

Ditto.

. That's strange. I just received from them today a switch bezel cover for an MJ specific cargo light (cargo lts. + fog lts.). Also recently have purchased a new set of MJ tail lights w. the chrome outlines. On both it took a couple of weeks but they delivered. I have ordered stuff from them and got a "discontinued" response, but not often. Weird............

Yes they will interchange, just have the toe checked after completed. I put the heavier ZJ tie rod on my MJ and did a redneck alignment with a tape measure. But I didn't trust it, brought it to an alignment shop, and it was spot-on. :mad: But he only charged me half price and greased everything too, so can't complain.

The tie rod assembly from a 1993-1998 Grand Cherokee with 5.2L V8 or a 1993-1994 Grand Wagoneer is the solid tie rod. Part numbers (MOOG) are: ES3096L outer tie rod end at tire ES2079S adjusting sleeve DS1312 connecting tie rod

Good idea to fab a block-off plate and pop rivet it on to block the heater box discharge port under the console. This forces the heat out the side vents up front. Otherwise most of your heat goes under the console and is useless.

Yes, it's silver Alex. I have the Laredo trim package from a 2-door XJ in my rig and the silver dash bezel was part of it. Even the steering column was silver.

There is a flow control valve screwed into the back of the power steering reservoir that regulates the closed system pressure. After you remove the hex cap, remove the valve, spring, and o-rings and clean everything up so the valve piston slides freely and replace the o-rings if necessary. If this doesn't work, the fluid may have become contaminated. In this case you'll have to disassemble the pump amd hoses and flush the entire system thoroughly. NEVER use anything but the recommended power steering fluid.

Finally got the Benz W124 temp display mounted in the clock module. Did not come out as I wanted as the Benz LCD temp digits were too dim to be seen through the transparent green lens like the clock has. So I had to flush mount it. Fits in there pretty well though.

Hey Pete - No shocks? :hmm:

For some odd reason, the chrome handle is cheaper than the black, and you always pay full retail at the local stealer. You can usually get original parts cheaper online at places like Chrysler Parts Direct and other OEM parts sources.

Very true. The chrome tailgate handle from the stealer is $35-$38 new. Buyers should always do their homework............

That's great. Rock Auto is a pretty good outfit to deal with in all my experiences with them.