HOrnbrod

99.9% of XJ's/MJ's with the AW4 auto tranny are equipped w. 3:55 gears in the D35 rear end. You can run 235 tires with no problems. Noticed you lifted the front using 1-1/2" spacers. In that case, your rear end is most likely too low now. A pair of extended shackles from a 1500 Chevy full-size or aftermarket shackles like the Teraflex units are an easy way to give you about an inch more in the rear to even things up. In that case you can safely put on a set of 30" tires. Do a search for a recent post on stock body height for Comanches and check how close your rig compares to OEM first though.

:nuts: Well then maybe you can crap a new one for yourself.

Try a search - It's all included in this topic: "Headlights on with doors open ... no chime?" The blue alarm module is no longer available from the dealer - yard item only.

I'm using both the lighter 12V switched and dash illumination circuit wires (+ ground) for the Benz LCD ambient temp display module that I built into my clock. Came in real handy................ :chillin:

Remember, our rigs are 15+ years old. There were no vehicle OEM "power outlets" then to charge the few cell phones. And everyone smoked too, so the lighter was useful. Easy to make the receptacle always hot though - just isolate the circuit first.

X2. Exactly. I have to go into my dash soon; will snap a pic when I get there.

That's exactly what it does. The ORN/BLK wire is part of the dash illumination circuit. The connector attaches to a bulb socket which attaches to the lighter housing. The bulb illuminates the outer green transparent ring around the lighter socket.

Here's a good link that describes testing the various Renix engine sensors: http://tinyurl.com/2md8a5

Yeah Jeff, you sent me one - must have been about two years ago. See Fernando, good example of the fine folks in the ComancheClub.

Fernando, just called Chrysler parts Direct - this part is not available anymore - anywhere. I really do not want to give up the only one I have (thought I had two but one of them is the black one w/o the LIGHTS ON alarm). So your only option is the junkyard, or maybe one of the forum members. I do remember that one of the fine forum members here, MJeff from VA, kindly sent me one awhile back when I could not find one. Jeff, can you help ol' Fernando out? :cheers:

I do have a couple of spares and I can send you one if needed. These alarm modules can cause when they go short out, like knock your dash lights out, and create other weird electrical problems, so it's better to get a new one if you can Fernando. Regards, Don

Thanks - I'll check it out.

No wonder I could not find this in my FSM............... :mad: How can I get these IS bulletins Eagle?

Best way to check is with a pressure gauge on the fuel rail Schrader valve. Fuel pressure should read about 39 psi w/o vacuum; 31 psi w. vacuum. Since it only runs decently at the higher pressure w/o vacuum, your regulator could indeed be bad.

This method for the rear was on NAXJA quite awhile back. I took measurements on my MJ before lifting it; the measurements were dead on: Measure from the top of the rear axle tube to the underside of the frame rail just inboard of the bump stop. For 4WD models this distance should be 9.2 inches, plus or minus 1/2". (For 2WD models the dimension is 8.2" plus/minus 1/2"). However higher your measurement is the lift on your rig, regardless of tire size.

Fernando; The Mopar part number for the BLUE case 8-pin Buzzer Warning Module (the black module does not have the LIGHTS ON alarm) is 5600 1076. $15.95 from Chrysler Parts Direct.

Guess I worded that unclear. Fill to proper level, replace cap, warm up engine, turn side-to-side w/o going hard into the stops, return to center position, shut off engine, then check fluid. Should be clear, not milky. Milky means air is in the system. Repeat above until clear. If it doesn't clear, then syphon out old fluid, pull & clean pressure relief valve, add correct fluid to proper level, and start bleeding procedure again, adding fluid when necessary. If fluid never becomes clear, the pump is most likely shot.

Oh, and borrow a belt tensioner gauge from Autism Zone or somewhere and make sure your serpentine belt is not too loose...........

Sure your wife isn't up under the hood? I get that whining sound whenever she does that......... :D Seriously, pull the power steering pump filler cap, check for correct level, then turn from stop-to-stop and check your fluid for bubbles and a milky color. Continue until the fluid becomes clear. If not, you could have a stuck pressure relief valve in the back of the pump. Pull the hex cap, remove the valve and clean up the piston. Try a fluid change, bleed the system well by going stop-to-stop first. If none of this works, you'll probably need a new or rebuilt pump.

Still available (at least they were last year) part number 22514857. Also has SF8956001076 written on the side. But easier and cheaper to find at the yard, make sure you pull the one with the blue case and seven pins. Most all XJ's had 1994+ had them. Even checked Mama's 01 XJ, it was there. And they plug right in.

JeepcoMJ is exactly right, left side of the fuse box, has provisions for 8 pins, although only 7 are used. About a 2"x1" rectangular box. I don't know what you pulled, if round it was the emergency or turn signal flasher, but they have only 2 pins.

It's called the Headlamp Delay option. Easy to install. The headlamp delay module is located up under the dash next to the headlamp switch; you can pull at the yard. They are all the same up to 2001. The wiring for it was in place in my 91. In order for it to work you also must have the blue chime module, and then place a 25A fuse for the delay lights in the PDC (if I remember correctly).

There were two buzzer modules which came w. 86-96 XJ/MJ Jeeps, one with a black plastic case; the other with a lt. blue case. You want the BLUE one, because the black one has no pinout for the LIGHTS ON alarm. Pull your black module and you'll find there is no Pin 8 for the lights on input. [tab] [4] [3] [2] [1] [8] [7] [6] [5] The tab is the lock tab that holds the buzzer in. Pin 5 is a blank. Pin 1 is power Pin 2 goes to the instrument cluster somewhere Pin 3 is ground Pin 4 is the seat belt input Pin 5 blank Pin 6 is the door switch input Pin 7 is the key in input Pin 8 is the headlight input Check the yards and pull a blue chime module from and XJ and swap it out w. the black one. Then your lights on alarm will work.

Let us know when your 16AWG-18AWG stock wiring starts to fry. :nuts:

Eagle is right, but I don't know if all of the regs apply to Newfoundland. Here's an old post explaining how you can use some of the factory wiring and the original fog light switch to trigger a fog light relay, even if your XJ/MJ dod not come from the factory equipped with fog/driving lights. makes it a lot easier. The below applies to a 91 XJ/MJ, but all models are similar. The dash fog light switch gets input power on pin B (the VIO/WHT wire on my 91) from the headlamp dimmer switch. This is to prevent the fog lights from coming on when the high beams are on. Cut this wire and splice a fused 12V source which comes on with the ignition. Pin C (the BRN/WHT wire) on the switch is the output which goes to the fog light relay. If you don't have factory fog lights, you probably do not have a fog light relay. You can pick the BRN/WHT wire up on pin #10 of the 10-pin connector located in the left front of the engine compartment. Use your meter to identify it when your turn your fog light switch ON; you'll have 12V. Run a new wire from pin #10 to the coil side of a new auxillary relay. This will apply 12V to the relay coil to energise the relay. Of course you have to hook up the other pins of the aux relay too, which are normally pinned out like this: Pin 86: 12V from fog light switch to the coil Pin 85: Ground (other side of the coil) Pin 87: 12V relay contact input, NO, (I picked up my 12V on pin 6 of the 10-pin connector above, same way the factory did it) Pin 30: 12V relay contact (NC) output to your lights By using the aux relay you protect your dash fog light switch since all the amp draw from the lights goes through the relay contacts. You can run at least two 100W halogen lights or more, depending on the amperage rating of the aux relay you put in. Make sense? It's pretty easy if you have the factory wiring schematics.