HOrnbrod

Check this thread Dirty: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=[/url]

If pulling the relay cures the dimming lights, then most likely the problem is on the load (horn) side of the circuit since the lights dim. Stick the relay back in, crawl under the bumber and disconnect the horn(s) wires. Try sounding the horn again. If the lights still dim, the problem is an internal short in the relay or in the wiring between the load contacts of the relay and the horn. If the lights do not dim, the horn itself is internally shorted. I'm betting on the relay.

Yeah, IB lucky to be away from the northern winters that tear up our rides. Those are new "Metric Ton" springs and haven't had a chance to get dirty yet. :D Have had the diff cover for years, and stuck it on awhile back when I converted the anemic rear drum brakes to Ford Explorer disks. I like the diff cover mainly for it's increased fluid capacity. The MJ's running about as well as I can get it, and the exhaust helps a lot. And I'm doing fine too Tom-san.

ok, if the forth option wasn't really an option, WTF are you posting??

No brainer. Save it for college.

Pull your horn relay, then try to sound the horn. If no excess load seen on your other circuits, prolly the horn relay shorted internally.

Hey! Just noticed it was you Tom! WTFO? That's a new rear bumper Tom, backed yours into a tree. Still have the front on though. How you doin'?

Yes, had them custom bent over the axle (have a friend w. a muffler shop) and kept the spare. welded on universal hangers on the cross member behing the spare, and used 3" S/S tips under the bumper. Here's some bad pics, will take some better ones when I get it up on the lift.

Looks great! But wouldn't work for me as my windows switches are there. Just curious; why didn't you mount them on the lower dash panel tweeter grilles?

Shoot me a PM w. your email addy and I'll send it out.

Weird. My 91 MJ uses one key for everything. A PO must have previously swapped out the ignition cylinder on your rig. Pulling the ignition cylinder from the GM column is a beetch (for me anyhow). Easier to pull the door lock cylinders and have a locksmith key them to match your ignition key.

That's very true Eagle, however the vehicles listed on the Monroe site are not complete. I don't even remember where I got this rear MJ shock cross reference from, had it for years (think it was when I was stationed in Japan), but it contains compatible international vehicles too. It saves some time, and one of the vehicles listed as compatible is the Chev LUV pickup. Dayem, how many of these are left? Anyhow, if anyone wants it, I'll send it.

Yeah, that's true Dirty. But if you're looking for MJ rear shocks and know the vehicles that will substitute, you can do a search on Ebay for that particular vehicle and maybe save some $$. Once got a new set of spring assisted Gabriel shocks for an old Toy Land Cruiser for $15 shipped. They were a little stiff but they bolted right on and travel was correct.

I have a complete cross reference for substitute MJ rear shocks (unlifted) based on travel. Some of these vehicles include Toyota FJs, Nissan Frontiers, Isuzu pickups, Chevy LUVs, even Ford vans. Sometimes you can find these on Ebay for cheap. Have swapped a few prelift and all worked well. If I could figure a way to upload this list (an XL spreadsheet) I would. But if anyone needs it, I shoot it out.

No. For unlifted vehicles, XJ (SOA) shocks full extension is about 20" (travel 12.75-20.00). The MJ (SUA) shocks are 23" (travel 14.3-23.0). Mounting details are different too.

Yes, it sounds like too far inboard. Using the regulation MJ bucket seat brackets, I get a clearance of about an inch on both sides of the seat. Also the seat back clears everything okay when tilting it forward.

I noticed when I put my buckets and center console in, that if the seats were not exactly level, the side bolsters would rub either on the center console or the back pillar when they were all the way back. Only took a shim washer or two on one side to correct.

Hey Jeff, the seats look great! Sitting higher feels weird at first, but after you crease your skull a few times, you get used to it. :cheers: Sorry I couldn't find any regulation MJ bucket brackets for you, but I'll keep looking. Sooner or later a set will be available at my local yard. The seat height using these is just about the same as the bench. One question though, seeing how meticulous you have been in your past projects, how come you didn't prime and paint the brackets?

Not true, at least in my case. I've had a Hesco 4.5L stroker in my rig for a couple of years now. My original Mar 2005 peak dyno readings at rear wheel were 182.4HP @ 4250RPM and 228 ft/lbs torque at the same RPM. Last month I went back to Hesco for my over 2-year checkup. The peak readings this time were 208.0HP @ 3990RPM w. 276.8 ft/lbs torque. The only major performance changes I've done since 2005 were getting rid of the cat and replacing it with a 2.5" in/out glass pack, into a Walker (the Flowmaster was too loud for me) single 2.5" inlet / dual 2.5" outlet Hi-Flow muffler, then dual 2.5" pipes all the way back over the axle exiting under the bumper. Also Hesco had to lower the fuel pressure from 44PSI to 38.5PSI to get the best dyno readings. Lee Hurley did the dyno runs himself, and was happy. I've read that you need lots of back pressure for the 4.0L engines too, but did not believe it. You just never know how mods will affect the engine until you put it on the dyno.

Brain fart........

TB?? :huh???:

I did manage to pull one windshield years ago successfully for my old Volvo 544. Used an industrial heat gun liberally to melt the sealant (also the gasket) and got it out w/o cracks. Also pulled an OEM rear slider for my MJ not too long ago using the same method. The slider was a whole lot easier than the windshield though....

Modified is right Stump. Looks like 1" black pipe. How long did it have to be w. a 6" lift?

Yeah, I can see that CW. What's that tierod you have in there? Looks like very stout aluminum?? Or just camera flash off a new aftermarket one?

Well, got the new front bump stops in, but it was more difficult than I thought. My coils are OME, and have 11 wraps. Even disconnecting the sway and jacking the frame up, only had about 1" between the wraps. So I cut a tapered wedge out of a 2x4, drove it in between two of the lower coils, and was able to persuade the coil wrap (w. the assistance of another 2x2) just enough to remove the old and insert the new bump stop.