HOrnbrod

No, this is the Sentinel panel: I had one of these but decided the wiring and all the sensors needed to make it work wasn't worth the efort. The 1991 factory clock was the only year that the blank panels below the clock were incorporated. It appears these slots were designed for indicator lights which never happened. The 91 clock can be wired into any XJ/MJ. I fitted in a W124 Benz 300E ambient temperature LCD display into the lower slot. There's a short writeup on Gojeeps site: http://home.earthlink.net/~jeepzz/siteb ... sentry.jpg as well as one I posted here earlier in the Projects section: Mercedes Ambient Temperature Display in an MJ. The outside temp display comes in handy especially during the winter.

Haven't decided what I'm going to do with the other slots yet........

That's almost 5" over mine Jeff. But I expect the rear will settle a bit over time. And I like the rear up about an inch higher than the front as they came from the factory stock.

How did this work out for you? A couple of guys on the stroker forum are having a rich condition too.

Naw, 2WD, just ball joints and wheel bearings to worry about. Have not replaced the ball joints; they seem to still be good.

Alls been done, replaced and/or checked like three times, except for "check unit bearings for wear"? Wheel bearings? Done. Pinion, carrier, bearings? All replaced with the rebuild kit when regearing. And am still 2WD :oops: Will holler Jeff-man. But I have to insist on buying the brew mates :cheers:

Yeah, knew you had plenty of mods, but didn't know a PO swapped out the pump/sender with the reverse polarity older sender. Not too smart........ :nuts:

Errr Alex, why is your 91 fuel gauge reading in reverse? Thought your rig was a 91 w. no mods??

My driveline angles are perfect now, and the vibes are still there, albeit very slight. But very slight still bugs the crap out of me. So maybe it's something else. When I regeared a few months ago, the vibes seemed to get worse, although the rear end is quieter than before. Next time I come up that way to visit my sis in Gloucester, I'll drive the MJ. Maybe you can find the time to look at it. I'll time it for one of the seafood festivals. And I'll bring the beer. :cheers:

This is true. Prolly be easier to swap out the fuel gauge from your old cluster than pulling the sender out of the tank and changing it. Pretty sure the gauges are interchangible unless your old cluster was the one with the idiot lights and the HUGE fuel gauge.

Now that you mention it, I just took a peek at mine. No stamped hump, just flat. But my bumper and brackets were listed for an 86-87 MJ, only chrome one I could find. They must have changed/improved the brackets since then.

100K people! Dayem, that festival used to be sparsely attended. Back on topic, it gripes me how you guys are doing these lifts with practically no vibes. I did a paltry 3" lift about a year and a half ago via a new set of Metric Ton springs and OME coils up front, and had zero vibes too - at first. Then about a year later, slight driveline vibes started between 35-45 under acceleration and got progressively worse. I had to eliminate everything else at first (steering, suspension, tires. wheels, etc.) since it all started a year after the lift. Finally after a new driveshaft, 3* shims on the leafs to get the pinion back down, new tranny mount, and a new bushing in the tranny tailshaft extension, I've about got it cured. The rear leafs have settled about an inch, which I thinkcaused it. The vibes are still there though, at the same speed, but barely noticible. I guess all rigs are different.

Roger that. I lived in Gloucester a few years too and worked at the Yorktown Naval Weapons Station, then went overseas and stayed for about 15 years. It is beautiful country and I miss the fishin' and crabbin' on the Bay. Still have a sister in Gloucester and get up there about once a year.

Yeah, that's what came with my new chrome bumper from the dealer a few years ago. No cutting of the brackets necessary. The brackets are available separately, p/nos 55009382-3 left and right. One part number for both long and short beds.

It's been quite a few years since I lived up there. I used to live in Hanover county and my parents were in Mathews county, so we passed through West Point a lot. When to wind was right, you could smell that paper mill in Gloucester. I'm sure it's better now..........................

That's strange in that the parts manual carries the same part numbers for both the long and short bed rear step bumper mounts. I've changed my bumper and brackets out a couple of times on my LWB and did not have to make any mods on the new brackets.

Good you didn't have to do it in West Point and put up with the Chesapeake paper mill stink.

Only about 1/2".

Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, Ebay, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused the high and low beams separately w. 20A fuses.

DPDT relays, X2. Plus you'll need a heavier wiring harness after the relays. Those black lights look like crap in an MJ (Or anything else except maybe a Ricer). The reflector is chrome plastic, poor to begin with, and the lumens output only get worse with age. Get some regulation Hella H4s, glass lens, metal reflectors.

Is it running hot at all? Check for a clogged cat.

Since you don't have a wide or narrow band A/F meter to monitor Stoich, pull a spark plug every 50 miles or so and look at the color.

Gotta be using spacers then with those wheels............

Damn, beat me to it Dirty. Yeah, do they CW?

First rule in electronics - smoke test first before finishing. Aree you sure the rheostat is connected right? There are three terminals on the rheostat. You need to connect the middle terminal (the slider) and either one of the end terminals in series with the 5V input wire to the MAP. If you used the two end terminals, this is wrong. And the 5V input wire to the MAP should be VIO/WHT. Turn on your IGN and make sure there is 5V on this wire.