HOrnbrod

Correct, eight holes. Mine's a Lund, and got it new on Ebay years ago for $30 shipped. AFAIR, the MJs and XJs carried different part numbers, why I have no idea. Image Not Found

Looks carbed w. an air horn, export model or variant. Snap off the air horn and send some more pics. Also did you run the VIN and/or build sheet? Might get some info there.

Yeah, send a pic. there were some non-TBI carbed 4-banger MJs built in 1986 for "non-regulated" export markets (the Bahamas may have been one). :eek:

Aye, it's brutal. One of the big dawgs there is Keith Bailey, owner of the Off-Road Connection in Gardendale: http://www.offrdconnection.com/ Super guy and has a the best 4WD shop in 'Bama if not of all the SE. He's helped me a lot in the past. :cheers:

Gray Rock is about an hour south of me. Went there a couple of times last year to watch and drink beer. Awesome trails............

Well mate you can come up here and cut my 2 acres if you'd like. :D The front's no problem but the back acre is nearly straight down to the lake. I wear out a riding lawn mower about other other year 'cause of the strain on the engine. Was going to do the first cut tomorrow, but said the h@!! with it - the bass be movin' in. :cheers:

Yeah, it's a bit of a drive from your AO Bob, and with the lousy pics it might be good or bad rust-wise, can't really tell. Might can ask the seller for some better pics?

Hey John - why don't you get a plow for your rig and spread that dirt around? Might even can make a few extra $$ in the landscaping business. No snow there to work.......... :cheers:

getting speeding tickets with that rig would be only a far off dream,never to be achieved. :jump:

This guy has had this Comanche for 10 years and still can't spell it: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Commanchee-4x4-Pick-up-1987-Jeep-Commanchee-pick-up-4X4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6286QQihZ012QQitemZ220211302429QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Have you pulled the radio and checked for power and ground on the connector? Should be like this: Pin 4 (Pink): 12V constant Pin 5 (Vio/Wht): Ignition Switched 12V Ground attached to a lug on the chassis

Here's some good reading; similar problem like yours. Turned out to be the ECU: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71001&highlight=shutdown+relay

Anyone going to watch the Paquio - Marquez fight tonight on HBO PPV? Going to be a good one, both guys will be carrying the weigh of their respective countries on their backs. And they both know how to bang. :cheers:

Well, if it was an HO I'd say the ASR (auto shutdown relay) is fubar. I had one sticking on my rig and it caused similar erratic starting symptoms. If it sticks it shuts down power to the coil. But I'm not sure if the Renix models had them...... :eek:

Exactly right Bob-man. Always check the dealer prices first, they often surprise you. And if they are 10% more, it's a no-brianer. :cheers:

Correct, Benz's and BMW's have had the pad wear sensors for years. It works, but it's a constant PITA maintainance though, keeping the sensors clear of brake dust and crud that constantly cause brake fault indicator lights on the dash. :eek:

Total driveshaft length on the LWB is around 60-1/2" longest case (AW4, 2WD) straightline u-joint center to center. Where is your fabbed cross member going to end up w. your Chevy shaft? Under the bed most likely, w. exhaust, fuel lines, brake lines, etc. in the way, and not much to mount to. Interesting project FUBAR.....

You could do a lot better than Fram filters IMNSHO. http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oi ... rence.html X2000 on the Frams. IMNSHO?? I know the last two are humble opinion. :D

I'm doing it on my 91 which has the horizontal filter, and am using a Mobil 1 M1-301 filter. More oil capacity is always good. :D The rear end of the canister comes close to the starter + cable, so when changing the filter I simply insulate it with a cloth or something, no problem. Other filters that can be used are: 5.178" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER 3/4-16 AC-Delco PF2 Motorcraft FL-1A Purolator PER1A Mobil 1 M1-301 6.93" HIGH, 3.660" DIAMETER 3/4-16 Napa 1773 Wix 51773 AC-Delco PF42 Motorcraft FL299 Purolator L40017

I've thought about this too, good idea. I know GM 27 spline w. the 1-1/2" OD splined shaft slip yokes that accomodate the 1350 series u-joints can be had and fit the MJ transfer cases. And if you go w. the beefier 1350 series up front, I'd do the same for the rear D44. What I'd like to know is how/where do you plan on mounting the drive shaft middle support?

Got to be the FRP-1 (7252) then as that's the one they list. Their reach is .116" longer than the Champions.

Nope. It's because I've heard too many stories of the platinum electrode tip breaking off and taking out the piston. The stock plugs with the Jeep high energy ignition easily last 50,000 miles or better, so why mess around with a hand grenade in your engine? I also tried a set of SplitFires in the XJ once. Didn't run any better than standard NGKs, and gas mileage was worse. Sometimes, newer and more expensive doesn't mean "better," it just means newer and more expensive. Eagle, when you say "standard NGKs", what's the number? I picked up a set of the NGK copper core 7252 (FR5-1) plugs, which are the ones recommended on their web site and everywhere else. I've been running Champion RC9VC Copper Plus plugs. The reach on the Champions is 3/4"; the NGKs have a 22mm (.866") reach, slightly longer. NGK also makes a FR5 plug which has a 3/4" reach. Any problem with using the longer reach plugs in the stroker? Any benefits?

I agree, your rig looks much better now. Errr, HOA = Home Owners Association?

I've had several cars (mostly Mercedes W124 series) converted to R134a in the past, and none of them were as efficient or cold as the R12. Granted, Jeeps seem to adapt better than some other vehicles, and if and when my compressor gives it up, I'll convert. Until then I'm sticking with R12.

Aye, agree jeepdoggydogB. :D Luckily I do have an R12 source for the immediate future, so IB stickin' too mate.