HOrnbrod

Right. The 2007+ Rubi wheels went to 5 x 5 bolt pattern.

Yeah, I didn't know either, so I brought it to a local auto glass shop. They reused the original gasket, put it in in about an hour for $40. Four years later, all is well with no leaks.

Got to be the FRP-1 (7252) then as that's the one they list. Their reach is .116" longer than the Champions. I tried the NGK FRP-1s. They are equivalent to the OEM Champion copper core RC12LYC. By reading the color after some WOT runs, they were obviously too hot for my stroker. I suppose they would be fine for a stock engine. Hesco recommends the Champion RC9YCs for their engines, which appeared too cold. So I went up one heat range to Champion RC10YCs; these are ideal.

Okay, if you're getting 12V on the black wire onlywhen the engine is running, not hot any other time, this is bad. It means that the voltage is coming from the charging circuit perhaps, or the ignition system, an engine sensor circuit, i.e. a circuit that only has current flow when the engine is running. And the fact that either of the other two wires when connected with the hot wire energizes the light proves you have ground on both, but since the light never shuts off the ground is not being switched off by either the headlamp or door switches. It's obviously wired wrong somewhere up front. I'd start trying to isolate the black wire power source first by pulling fuses one by one until the power goes away. PITA I know, but it should lead you to the circuit causing the BLK wire 12V.

Check to see if you click on 12V on the yellow wire when you turn your headlight switch knob fully ccw (or cw, I forget). If so, then all you need to do is run a separate ground wire to the other light contact. Might can do that right in the B pillar. :cheers:

I completely disagree with about everything you stated. 1. First, the original mechanical fan (15") and the aux electric fan (12") are pullers. They are pullers to allow max airflow w/o restriction through the radiator. Your fans in front of the radiator restrict airflow when moving. 75%-80% of the effective cooling is by airflow when moving; you get into trouble sitting in standstill traffic and the airflow stops. The puller fans would need to be running constantly to make up for the restricted airflow they cause. 2. A 14" electric fan fits perfectly in the existing mechanical fan shroud, and depending on its CFM, it moves as much if not more air than the clutch fan. None of the fan hangs down below the shroud; it's an inch less in diameter than the mechanical fan in the same shroud! I run a 14" on a Spal controller set to turn on the fan at 50% at 190* and 100% at 205*. For backup if needed I have wired in a dash bypass switch on the existing aux fan because the factory aux fan temp setting (218*) is to high IMNSHO. Had to use it once when the temp crept a bit over 210* after 40 minutes stuck in traffic. With both fans running, the temp drops like a stone. 3. Neither of my fans have "built-in thermal shut off points". No decent automotive electric fans have thermal switches. If an automotive cooling fan shuts off because of engine compartment temps, there's something wrong with it. 4. You never mentioned the amp draw per fan, but obviously you are not running a variable speed controller, so they're either off or running at 100%. If you haven't upgraded your electrical system (larger alternator, larger mains cables, etc.) let us know when your alternator fries or a wire fire starts. 5. REVERIBLE "S BLADE" FANS MUST BE USED. Why? :nuts: It's not the shape of the blades that matter, it's the rated CFM of the fan. I don't give a rats butt if the blades are W shaped, as long as it moves all the air I want it to. 6. The XJ/MJ radiators are not square. That's the only thing you said I agree with. :D 7. WHY DO YOU SHOUT SO MUCH?? The key to effective cooling is keeping the entire cooling system in first class shape to keep the coolant flowing as designed - period. A clean single or dual core radiator (I don't think the 3-core rads flow as well), a good flowing water pump, proper mix of antifreeze and water, an unrestricted exhaust system (i.e. clogged cat :eek: ), proper coolant level, rad caps and overflow bottles in good operating condition, and/or trapped air in the system. If the cooling system is in good shape, and you're moving at +30 or so, we wouldn't even need fans. But unfortunately that's not always the case.

The hot wire is pink, the ground wire is black, and the headlight switch wire is yellow. Use the black and yellow wires for your two wire lights.

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Makes sense. But as a minimum I would install the gauge first and run it around for a week or two under varying conditions to establish a baseline temp to work from. Then put in your coolers and see how it goes from there.

:cheers:

Doesn't include carrier or pinion bearings and races that you may or may not need. But if I'm doing a gear change, I would like to have these and change them out. Could save you $$ in the long run - don't ask how I know. :cry:

Hey Jeff, if all our junk worked 100% perfectly 100% of the time, owning Jeeps would be pretty boring and we'd all know nothing about fixing them. Might as well get a damn Honda or something. :eek:

No, it won't be okay. At 4" of backspacing, your tires will hit the flares in the front AND the back. Lift does not affect this -- the tires still "stuff" into the same wheel wells. The only way to prevent it is to extend the bump stops far enough to stop the tires before they can touch the flares. That severely limits articulation, so it's a solution for a street vehicle but probably not a good solution for a trail vehicle. If you want 31x10.50s to stuff without hitting the flares and sheet metal, you have to stay with the stock rims. Well, I did say should be okay in italics regarding the 4" BS. But I have run 31s with 4.5" backspaced Jeep wheels for a couple of years and there was no rubbing anywhere. Of course, this was on the street too. :cheers:

Yeah, Ron's a talented guy. He's got another rig in the works, a Grand Cherokee 4DR pickup with the 5.2 V8. Kind of looks like a Jeep Avalanche. :eek:

Yes. I have about the same lift, same tires, and use Mopar Ravine wheels w. 5" BS. I did rub on the LCAs at full lock but fixed that by installing WJ LCAs. No problems front or back with the flares. You should be okay with an inch less BS.

Good point. I'd mount two sensors, one on the supply side, one on the return w. a switched input to the gauge as mentioned before. Than you can tell exactly how efficient the aux coolers work.

Now THAT is something I'm looking forward to seeing completed in the very near future. :cheers: Seriously, hope you document it step-by-step. :D

You're talking about a tranny fluid filter. Should have known since we're talking tranny coolers. As far as the reasoning for the remote engine oil filter? The largest oil filter I can use now is the Mobil M1-301. It's mounted horizontally and any filter longer would come too close to the starter + post. Plus it makes a mess everytime I change the filter and it's a PITA to get to. With the remote filter I can just undo the clip, put a little pan under it, and screw it off without spilling. But this is down the road..........

On the 91 HO models and above, if the NSS plug was disconnected (same as if the cable was severed) it discos the circuit to the starter relay, and will not start at all. I just saw you have a 89 - might not be the case. :eek:

It will never start if you have the NSS discoed. This should help: http://www.jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp

Since you brought it up Twisty so I'm not stealing the thread (just adding to the topic) :D , the remote filter is another mod I'm getting ready to do. Since I've already relocated the windshield washer bottle into the inner fender, I'm going to do it like the below since I have the room. These pics were supplied by a stroker forum member. And it will NOT be a Fram, will be a Mobil 1 filter. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Cool! (hopefully) :brows: . Don't think this would fit with the A/C condenser in place though. :cry: Well, you're doubling the cooling fin area, and it's located in a better spot for air flow than the stock OEM aux cooler location, so theoretically it should be a lot better. Only one way to prove it though, a dual input temp gauge on the supply and return coolant sides.

You have an auto tranny? Neutral safety switch discoed?

Dayem - already moved. Pete be quick! :eek: :eek:

Sure would. Maybe Pete can slide it over there? :D I used the OEM aux cooler (pic below) and inserted it in series with the tranny return coolant line where the quick disconnect fitting is. The OEM cooler has the male and female quick disconnect fittings built in, and this is how the factory plumbed them up. And good idea on the supply and return inputs for the temp gauge. :D