HOrnbrod

Were these problems also a consequence of the hood shorting the battery incident?

The latter. Stick to the old copper cores, they still work best.

Au contrair mon ami. Tapco still has new (surplus) rear axle assemblies for the MJ. Awhile back I ran the part numbers and there were a couple of MJ D44's in the link, but not w. the 4.11 gears like I needed. D35s yes, but not D44s. They even have new MJ AMC 20s in that list. :eek: http://www.tapcointernational.com/Pages/jeepdiff.htm

I agree. :D Here's a pic of Ron Farrell's beautiful yellow MJ pre-carnage: Image Not Found Post-carnage: Image Not Found

You might want to measure your rig and compare to the stock height first to see how much the leafs and coils have sagged like this: COMANCHE STOCK HEIGHT Front: Measure from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail, inboard of the coil spring. Do NOT measure from the diff housing or shift motor housing. 2WD models should be 6-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 7-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". Rear: Measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube and the underside of the frame rail inboard of the jounce bumper. 2WD models should be 8.2" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 9.2 inches plus or minus 1/2".

Aye matey, you got a keeper there. Outstanding!

Well, that's proof that the adapter exists. Must be an 86-only thing, and I can't find it in the parts manual. Weird.........

Naw, very few skeeters - they spray bi-weekly. It's a 1000 acre lake about 70 years old. 60' deep in places. Big bass in it (caught a 10 and 9.5 pounder), lots of big crappie (2.5 lbs. plus - mmmmm good eatin') and the usual brim. Channel cats up to 40 lbs too, and a few fresh water stripers. Biggest problem is the usual high humidity in the summer, but I definitely prefer that to like winters in WI. We like it here, and can "get away" w/o driving anywhere. C.C cookout would be great - just bring the beer and I'll help y'all drink it. :cheers:

I'm sure ya'll know Lee is the owner of Hesco. He's got stuff all over his shop regarding the SCCA MJs and he loves them. I headin' on down in a couple of weeks and can check it out.

I plan to do some serious bass fishing from my back yard since Mama and the two girls are away visiting relatives. :cheers: Image Not Found

Boot camp, A, B and C schools all at the Lakes. Was an FT on the boats. But as CDR JeepCo says, back on topic. Was this a local Chesapeake buy? One of the best deals I've seen - lived in the AO for many years. If you're going to try to turn it over, it seems that it wouldn't take much to make your money back at least X3, or maybe X4. With the gas $$ as it is and as it will only get worse, the 4 banger MJ is a good option. Interested in what you find when you get into it. Hope you find no major snags. :D

Liberal ladies = Easy :cheers:

ah. wisconsin. love it! found another one here btw... back to topic, i think it should stay a 4 cylinder. let's make this a poll! Agree. Would make a great semi-economical D/D w. what looks like minimal work. Yeah, I rag WI, but spent a lot of time there in my Navy days while in and out of Great Lakes. Best liberty in the States up in Milwakee and Kenosha. And when you're tired of the liberal ladies, some of the best fishin' in the country. The winters suck though........ 8)

Super find. You might could find a similar model in WI for those $$, but this one looks like it won't explode if you turned a pressure washer to it. Has it been a VA rig all it's life? Looks great! :cheers:

That's pretty good JT. Here's a neat bonehead move I made a few years ago: I bought an nearly finished 36 Ford 5-window coupe hot rod with a small block 327 during my last year of HS. Got it running pretty well, thought I knew it all, but it stumbled a bit going around corners. No brainer: the float level adj. had to be off. It had a Holley 650 dual feed 4-barrel (the old style w. the external float level adjustment). You can see where this is leading. Pulled the plug on the float bowl, engine was hotter than I thought, POOF! Flames everywhere. :eek: What a dumbass. Luckily there was a garden hose close by, I shut the engine off, put the fire out, and surveyed the carnage. Had to do some major rewiring, repaint the hood & fenders, and replace the windshield because it shattered when the cold water hit it. Ah, memories.

All this is soooooooo GOOD to hear. :D Y'all have made me feel so much better for my $200+ mistake - many thanks. I think it might be a good idea to start a sticky in the PUB for the "Bonehead of the Month Award". I can see the competition will be intense with the cast of characters on this forum. :eek: I don't know how we'd work it; but Pete always knows how to do these things. Self deprecation is sometimes good for the soul. And if you've committed a major bonehead mistake, there's always someone who can top it. The prize for the "Bonehead of the Month" selectee could be the never-ending ridicule and mockery of the runners up, until the next bonehead claims the award the following month. Could be fun. :cheers:

What's the diameter of this sway bar?

I had the same thing happen to me when I was drilling through the frame in my old TJ to install rear towhooks. Drilled a hole in the plastic fuel tank and used the epoxy to reseal it. By the way what kind of aluminum radiator are you using? My radiator is starting to fail (I overheat only in really hot weather) and the one in Quadratec is $499. I'm using the one in the link below, the Jeep Cherokee #9168. $200 shipped. This is the only rad that would cool my new stroker during the break-in period. They work great and are well made. BTW, I'm modifying my electric fan conversion and did a writeup in the DIY project writeups section. http://www.alumrad.com/dblpass.html

Hey, that's my birthday!

Here's the data from the parts manual. Different part numbers for the sender according to tank, engine, and year. What the differences are? :dunno: Image Not Found

Are you referring to the tranny coolany line flare fitting? Try this: Remove the flare nut, tighten the big 15/16" bulkhead nut that holds the flare fitting to the rad, wrap the flare fitting threads with teflon tape, and hook the tranny line back up. Worked for me.......

Absolutely beautious man! How did you get the wheel well flanges lined up so square? Cut the legs and twist?

Thanks guys - I feel a bit better. Still feel like a dumbass, but better. And I should know better. I better start taking my time. Better be more careful. Better shut up. :cry:

Or maybe the month. Today I was installing a mounting bracket behind the radiator for a new electric fan, the drill slips, and knocks a hole in my aluminum radiator. Local shop says they probably can fix it with an epoxy patch, chances are 50/50. :nuts: So I left it with them, and ordered a new one. So I'll have a 50/50 spare rad. Dayem, I hate it when these things happen.........

The wheel in this thread came from a late 80s Buick Turbo Regal, but most any pre-airbag GM steering wheel will bolt on since our MJs use GM Saginaw columns. I had one from an Olds Toronado for awhile, and a Z28 "rope" steering wheel below. Image Not Found