HOrnbrod

Good plan. I'm betting on the guts. :D

Man, just got back from fishing out back, and it was a great day. Plenty of large crappie, bass, bream, and landlocked stripers. We DO have fresh fish dinners for the next month or so. Most all were caught while trolling. I was down at the headwaters of the lake where the feeder stream comes in, and seldom go there because it's so shallow. But now that it's getting cooler, the fish are in there. I'm cruising along getting some nice bream, sucking High Life, when BAM, pole #2 (the one with the 14# testline on) goes immediately taught. Dayen, stuck on a logfish again. Put the trolling motor in reverse, and watch the line, and I ain't getting any closer. Keep following it into deeper water keeping it taught, and thought I must have a big catfish on. I followed it until I was out of the tuliweeds and stumps, then rammed the hook home. Nothing, just more movement into deeper water which I couldn't stop. Still moving though, deeper and deeper. Dreams of a state record something starting. WTF?? To make a long story short, after 30 minutes or so of cranking and being careful not to exceed the drag, whatever I hooked finally starts to rise off the bottom. Got it up to the boat, it's like dead weight now, and the head pops out of the murky water. It's a freaking gigantic alligator snapping turtle. He (or she) was at least two feet across the spiked back and had to weigh in excess of 100#. It was completely spent and glared at me, opened it's mouth, and there was the spinner bait not too far inside. I had some long needle nose pliers, and got the hook out clean with no protest from the snapper. He just glared and kept the huge mouth open and didn't move while I extracted the hook, then lumbered away to fight another day. I'd never seen one of these prehistoric creatures up close and personal, and was very impressed. There are plenty of the smaller common snappers here, and every spring the females lumber out of the water to lay their eggs, but I've never seen an alligator snapper in the lake. First time I've ever caught a turtle of any kind while trolling (have caught a few catfishing w. stinky bait) and I've been fishing for 30+ years. These guys can live for almost 200 years I've heard, and by the size he/she was at least +100 years old. Alligator snappers have been around since the dinosaurs. A great day! Sorry for the long-winded post, but I was excited. :cheers:

X2 on the carb (once you verify you have spark). I'm bettin' the carb float is stuck 'cause the needle under it is gummed solid and isn't moving.

There are a lot of headers that will not work with the 1999+ intakes but work just fine with the older intakes. I can't believe you are the first person to bring to these fitment problems to their attention. You can bet your butt I won't be buying any of their junk. :cheers: On another matter, I'm getting ready to do the 99+ intake manifold swap and have the Mike Leach headers installed. I called Kolak (Nick Ianuzzi) from whom I purchased these headers long ago, and was assured I would have no clearance problems. We'll soon find out............ :eek:

Good one Sam! :teehee: :yes: :jump: :yes: :teehee:

K, understand. Any good rad shop works on all rads; plastic, aluminum, and of course copper and brass. If they don't, they suck, or have enough buisness to not to bother. In that case, you don't want them. :cheers: Good luck.

Whatever that means. :nuts:

Wooky, have had lots of 300 series Benzs. On my 88 CE, I had a pinhole leak on the tank seam, tried JBWeld, lasted a couple of weeks, and other "specialized" epoxies, none lasted long. The 3.0L M103 engines run normally at 20 PSI rad pressure, sometimes more, and no bandaid epoxies last long. I finally sucked it up, pulled the rad, and brought it to a local shop. They pulled the tank, cleaned it up, epoxied it back on, rotted it out, pressure tested it up to 50 PSI, and charged me $45. I ran it two more years with no more problems, and sold it last year. Sometimes ya got to give it up, and leave it to the pros. :cheers:

Pretty lug nuts though. :D Get some dust caps too!

Yes, it should in closed loop mode if it's working right along with the engine control module (if the 2.5L TBI engine has an engine controller). But an adj. MAP can help the lean or richen the A/F ratio under WOT conditions and in open loop mode when the engine is first started. Under these conditions the O2 sensor is ignored. :D

The 2.5 TBI also used the same MAP sensor as the GMs. You could try the larger GM injector and fine tune it with an adjustable MAP voltage adjuster.

I used this one way back when when I had a cat. Passed emissions just fine. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COPBPI?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=pricegrabber2-auto-20&linkCode=asn

Leaning it out with the adj. MAP can only help to lower emissions. I run my stroker @ 4.8V, lower than stock, no pinging, and the plugs remain correct color on random checks. Helps the mileage too. Curious to see if I could pass........hmmm.

So is there any monetary penalty for not passing? Besides the inconveinence to try again? Varies by state, I'm sure, but why not try? I'm very inexperienced in emissions testing. :dunno:

Well my xj is a 96 and its going to have to have the sniffer test.. Its the one that has the rattles that I thought was the transfer case chain rattling... The mj,,,, well I'm just disappointed in it.. :roll: low oil pressure and I really think its the bearings... :roll: :cry: Think I can pass a sniff test with the cat hollowed out?? I don't think so, but I could be wrong.. Edit,,,, Don I'm not Chico...... :cheers: Errr, sorry JT. I must need another Miller HL. :cheers: SERIOUSLY though, I've read a few NAXJA posts from various Cali guys passing emission tests w. a hollowed out cat. Never tried myself, 'cause I don't need to. Worth a shot?

Yeah! Why don't you try that Chico? Sigh................

Yep. Find the two pins that have the least resistance, like 10 ohms or less with your meter. That's the coil pins. Apply the 9V battery across these pins, the relay should click and the other two pins will read continuity.

Why don't you just bench test the suspect relay? Use a 9V battery or a battery charger across the relay coil terminals (usually contacts 85 and 86), and an ohmeter across the NO (Normally Open) load terminals (usually contacts 87 and 30). If the relay is working you will get continuity across the load contacts when you apply power and the relay latches. Unless you just want to buy a new one. :D

I'd would want a wiring diagram/schematic of exactly what they jury-rigged to fix the short, including ECU pinouts, diode type they inserted, and the FSM circuit number/description they bypassed/replaced/ and/or cut out. Just in case it fails......... 8)

If he's got a PDC it's an HO. The aux fan is controlled by the ECU by applying a ground signal output from pin 31 to the coil of the aux fan relay in the PDC. This ground signal is generated by the A/C turning on, or by a high temp signal from the sensor on the thermostat housing. OR by a simple dash switch that applies a ground to ECU pin 31. That's what I use as a fail-safe in my two electric fan setup. :D

Sounds like it's praying to the Porcelin God Chico. :D X2 on the cat...

Thanks Pete. Maybe it was vice-versa then. :roll:

It had the 4 + 1 MT springs (one thick overload leaf, four thin leafs). The earlier models (89 and below I think), had the 3 + 2 springs.

Not fot the 91+. I just looked at a 91 today short bed w. a beat up body that had the D44 and MT springs and was 2WD. Don't know about the rest of the MT options. Anything was available special order in 91-92 when the MJ was dying, perhaps as dealer installed options.

Screw the rims - that was a great find! Got to be the original paint too, doubt if anyone went to the trouble to repaint and put the Eliminator decals back on. D44 too! That means the towing package option, MT springs, etc. Don't know about the body rot, but it looks damn good for MN. Congrats! Post some better pics including the interior if you can later.