HOrnbrod

Hesco.

Congrats Matt. Lots of quality work in a short timeframe shows you are a dedicated MJ lover and a valued CC Forum member. I like the way you have shared your experiences both good and bad with the forum and created a very clean looking and unique rig. And I'm sure there is much more to come. These things are never done. :cheers:

I had a KTM Rotax years ago when I was stationed in the Philippines. Great rice patty bike - went anywhere the local cop bikes couldn't. :D That KTM must be a monster.......

Looks great AmJay. I'm an old bastid too and can't stand the wind buffeting anymore, so the only thing I'd add is a small cafe-type fairing to direct most of it over your head. Would look great too on that bike. Guess I'm weird, but have always been partial to retro big thumpers, but definitely need an electric start model now - hard to find. Have had big BMW airheads and a Harley Geezer-Glide in the past, but they always end up boring me. Nothing like the sound of a high revving 600+ cc thumper. Current bike is a 95 604cc MZ Silver Star that will pull 80 MPH in third easy and top out at 120 in 5th. Surprises a lot of people and is very smooth for a thumper. Have been building the Rotax engine for the last six months or so and neglecting the MJ. Getting a side car for it too. It's got a bit of chrome. Image Not Found

Yes, you can do this with a timing light since the timing marks are still on the harmonic balancer pulley. UB looking for a nice steady mark with the light. Checked the distributor for proper indexing? Did this lack of throttle response come on suddenly, or was it a gradual thing? According to your posts, you've done all the right things and there's not much left. I didn't see anything regarding monitoring your A/F ratio throughout the RPM range either. Perhaps bringing it to a local shop with a dyno might be in order? Got a buddy who will loan you a compatible ECU you can plug in to eliminate that? Just throwing things out here..........

:agree: I used a pressure washer & detergent on a set of Laredo 2-door buckets on the covers, and they looked almost new. Then found a complete NOS set of 2-door XJ Laredo bucket seat covers on Ebay only listed by the part number w. no application data! Bought these for very cheap and sold the old covers I had cleaned for mucho more than the new ones. Lucky on that one. :D BTW Fiat, what is that apparition between your seats? See the dog above, but the seat levers look like devil dog eyes peering out. :cheers:

Those lines look pretty bad for a southern truck Jake. Did you buy it from the Wildman? :D PS hoses are not that expensive - they look like they should be replaced anyhow, si? I got mine off w. a 3/8" crows foot type socket that worked fine, have you tried this?

Happy bleedin' mate. :rotfl2:

Another good reason to convert from the troublesome closed cooling system to an open system. By the time summer's over there will be 1,009,453 posts similar to this. :peek: :cheers:

Whomever cobbled the description up asked for input to improve it. Here's the humble constructive criticism I sent him (or her): Instead of the semi-clever quip description that really tells me nothing except that the engine is not stock, how 'bout putting some tech detail in it. Such as: 1. Toledo - Rust Belt Maximus. Sure would like to see some under carriage pics. How many gallons of Bondo in it? A vid of a magnet test would be nice, unless it falls of every other inch...... 2. SBC V8s (or any other V8) in an XJ/MJ engine compartment never run cool. Simply not enough real estate under there for proper airflow. They usually boil over in a 1/4 mile run down the strip. What's been done above and beyond to cool it besides the hideous cowl hood? 3. Yeah, leaving the cluth pedal in there w. the auto tranny was tres gauche. Makes you wonder what other careless less obvious shortcuts were performed. 4. A little info on what diff, tranny, suspension, steering, brakes, etc. would be nice. I wouldn't consider ANY modified vehicle w/o detailed tech specs. HTH, Don I tried to be nice...........really. :D

Thanks Matt. I saw that link when it had pictures and cobbled a similar press together but haven't tried it out yet. Some guys say replacing those bushings is easy, some say it's a major PITA. I'll soon find out. I just haven't been in the mood to work on the truck lately though.......... :D

Maybe you meant did not? :D Understand why it others you as to he cause of the wire fire occurred - it would bug me too. Sounds like the insulation on a B+ mains cable was skinned to ground to get hot enough to ignite something, unless a fuel leak was involved. Ah well, when you get digging into it, it might be obvious. Let us know the plan. :cheers:

I haven't read through all the posts, but this is a sad thing for sure. :( From the looks of it, it was built with care. What I'm interested is what do you think caused the wire fire? They are always caused by a dead short somewhere with no fuse/link protection that generated enough amp flow to ground, created heat, then ignited insulation or oil deposits at the hot spot. Any idea of the cause in hindsite?

Has anyone done this? The mounting ears on the 4WD are solid pieces and replacing the bushings on these is a straightforward press job or even heat and beat. :D But on the 2WD axle, they are not solid; there are two sheet metal ears on ech side. The FSM calls for a special bearing press that has a spacer between the ears so they don't get bent, and says DO NOT attempt to press out the bushings w/o this tool for that reason. I have never replaced the front axle UCA bushings on a 2WD and have been putting this off, but need to replace the UCAs and bushings. Anyone done this? Image Not Found

Not true, for sure with the HO 91-92 models. I eliminated the hot water valve several years ago by using the newer XJ heater hoses on my 91, as Chryco did in 96? Forget the year. If your HVAC system is functioning correctly and the HVAC door seals are intact, no heater core hot air will enter the cab. No hot air enters the cab w. the blower off, only ambient air. No hot air enters the cab w. the A/C on, only A/C cold air.

Do you have an auto or standard tranny on your 92? AFAIK the booster arm mounts on opposite side of the brake pedal depending on the tranny since there's no clutch pedal.

Damn Jeff, that's going to ruin your dancin' moves for awhile. :D Not a show stopper, but a temp painful delay. We've all been there in one way or another doing stupid moves causing pain and learn from them until the next time. Beer w. meds definitely leads to faster healing too...... :cheers:

The steering wheel looks almost decent........

This is true for the WJ boosters into a renix era MJ, but not for the 91-92 MJs. The 95-96 XJ dual diaphragm booster is a direct bolt-in for the HO MJs and retains the stock pedal height using the 1/4" alum. spacer plate that comes w. the 95-96 booster. :cheers:

I know G tried after the fact, but only on the West Coast could this happen to one of the few remaining 92 MJs. Too short notice I guess. Damn, what a waste. It kills me to see one of the last year of the breed crushed, especially in that good shape... AAAARG

Yeah, those too. :yes:

Thought this might be interesting to see how y'all rate modifications you have done to your MJ. Mine are: 1. Regearing to 4:10 2. Cowl Hood install 3. ZJ quick steering gear box 3.1 Rear Explorer disks

28:1! :eek: Gawd, I wasn't aware of that. That's twice as slow as the slow 14.1 stock XJ/MJ P/S box. That thing would wear your arms out on a long and windy road. :yes: Although I do remember vehicles I had as a youngster pre-power steering that were about 44.6 turns lock-to-lock. :brows:

They have different parts numbers because they have different ratios - the internals are different. They will all work on your truck. I personally prefer a quicker ratio since I'm not off-road pushing around 35" or so tires.

There was basically only one GM Saginaw power and manual gear box made in these years for passenger cars and small trucks, until you got into the 3/4 T and up heavier trucks. Just the internals were different. I won't hurt to bring your old one with you though. Look for a low mileage vehicle that's been rear-ended, and of course test for play before pulling it. The link below is for power steering boxes, but also applies to the manual boxes too in most cases. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html