HOrnbrod

Just checked the parts manuals (97-01 XJs), and all they show is the shift bezels for the LHD and RHD autos as below. Nothing for the standard transmissions. But you probably knew that. If it's not in the parts manuals, it might not exist. Can't you get another one and beef it up with fiberglass?

Cool. The kitchen fixtures have 4 x F32T8 bulbs and I have the LEDs and old florescent bulbs playing next to each other off the same ballast now. The garage has eight ancient 6' two-bulb fixtures that use T10 florescents and 220VAC for the ballasts. Got those from a Navy yard dump for free years ago. Good news they make LED replacements for the two mercury vapors I have out in the backyard too.

I don't understand what you're asking. Just rip the old shield remnants off and discard. When I replaced the splash shield on my 91 all the push-pin holes in the frame and front cross-member lined up. You just need some get some more 1/4" push pins.

Yep, that's what I plan on doing.

Never knew there was such a thing until today. The wife has been hounding me to get the florescent fixtures in the garage and kitchen working for a couple of months so decided to do it today. They were all 4' and 6' multiple bulb fixtures, and only about half worked fully. I had plenty of spare ballasts, but had to pick up some new 4'-32W bulbs in town. I thought they were a little more expensive as compared to what I used to pay, but bought them anyway. When I opened the box I saw they looked a bit strange and discovered they were LED replacements for the florescent tubes. Also my ballasts were listed as compatible with the new LEDs, so I lucked out there. Stuck them in and replaced all the bad ballasts I had and everything's working again. These LEDs are supposed to last twice as long and use 25% the energy of the old florescent tubes. Anyone use these things before?

Can you still easily add the alignment shims behind the WJ LCA with the oval end on the frame side?

It's been done both ways and no one has reported any problems either way that I've seen. https://comancheclub.com/topic/51978-wj-lower-control-arm-questions/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-529892

Sometimes you can find a hit-or-miss C.R.A.P. Renix sensor though. Knock sensors aren't only a Renix thing; they're used by many other manufacturers. Even the craptacular 3.8 Wrangler engines had knock sensors, and there are many aftermarket knock sensor kits available. They are a good to have and provide a little extra engine protection especially with today's fuel additives. They all operate under the same basic principle. https://www.rubitrux.com/omix-ada-17223-50-knock-sensor-4-7l-91-06-jeep-wrangler.html

I was under the truck crawling around doing a bi-annual inspection a few years ago and spotted one of the bed bolts was only screwed in about half way. Figured it came off the assembly line like that. Got a socket and tried to tighten it and the weld nut broke free and now just spins. I'll have to check again, but I didn't see a way to get an air chisel in there...

Is that the back yard Yella? Sounds like a good plan.

That's for sure. I called him once for some advice regarding an aluminum cylinder head. Two hours later I was thoroughly educated.

Looks Good!

Ditto on trying a longer bolt that goes deeper into the snout. 1/2 x 20 threads as I recall....

I thought Russ just worked on cylinder heads.

Nice work and looks good. I hope your dog appreciates it.

It's amazing how many little "bits" they stock for our rigs. Peruse through and check it out HERE. Guaranteed you will find an item or twelve that you need..

If all else fails: http://teamcherokee.com/front-arm-rest-mounting-plastic-metal-retainer-4-pc-set-oem-cherokee-comanche-1984-1996/

All 91 2WD models had the old style front brakes (rotor pictured below) as Gog mentioned; the change date to the 4WD style was in 1992 mid-year. The best way to order 91 2WD calipers and rotors I've found is to use the 2WD caliper/rotor Mopar p/n's and have the counter drone cross them. RockAuto also carries them. I last got the Wagner rotors and calipers from O'Reillys, but that was awhile ago. 53002928, ROTOR, Brake 5252986, L Caliper 5252987, R Caliper 5252613, L & R Brake Pad Set

How's that black / chrome trim bezel condition Krusty? Looks fairly decent in the low res pic.

Lee's a character isn't he? Under that gruff exterior beats the heart of a pussycat. He did all my dyno runs personally (probably for everyone else too) and explained in great detail why he had it screaming at over 6000 RPM at times while I'm waiting for everything to blow up. He always took the time to answer all my questions and I learned a lot from him. He has a soft spot for Comanches. Ever see the yellow Hesco supercharged 4.9L stroker "delivery truck" MJ? I think it's retired now and sits in the Hesco museum. Tried for the longest time to get that manifold and Eaton supercharger, but it was always "not for sale". Didn't know he retired as he's still active on the Hesco forum. He helped me with a fuel delivery problem recently. Joe is a good guy too. Haven't seen either of them in years..

Hesco has the best stroker rep in the business. They are also the most expensive. I couldn't / wouldn't recommend anyone else, especially since I hang around the Strokers forum and read the horror stories about most of the other builders. Everyone rips Hesco because of their prices, but nobody ever rips the quality of their builds. You might pay more up front, but over the long haul you'll save $$ in the end.

I think it would be quite easy to find a couple of miniature LED fixtures to mount on each side on the plate holder...

87-01 XJ front plate holder

^^ Words of wisdom right there. That's the main reason I went with Hesco.