HOrnbrod

^^ Amen brother.

P/n J4001933, SCREW, Hex Flange Head, .312x18x.875.

Love it too. :cheers: All your rigs pictured are clean, correct, varied, and represent well the versatility of the MJ. I think you have shown this versatility better than anyone else ever has. I know you have to have a ton of work into them all. Quality work, and quality CC member. Well done, and I'm a fan.

Valve covers can be swapped around easily between the 4.0 engines and wouldn't be an accurate way to verify the year mfg. A more accurate way would be to ID the block and head casting numbers. Here's how to do it: Head: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=241 Block: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=52

Yes, that makes good sense. But first I'd do a quick continuity check from D1-D2-D3 to the appropriate pins on the TCU.

Willy, I just looked in my 91 FSM to verify. TCU pin D1 is not used, and D2 is listed as the TPS input pin and goes to TPS pin 3. It's also paralled as a feed to pin 22 of the ECU. So my FSM agrees with the AW4 manual as far as the TPS input circuit. :dunno:

The solenoids could impact the voltage; I don't know how the TCU is wired internally. It only takes a minute to check the solenoids, so it can't hurt. Upon further checking: From the 1988 AW4 Manual: THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) TEST NOTE: Digital voltmeter must be used to check TPS. 1) Note location of TPS electrical connector. See Fig. 5. Turn ignition on. Using digital voltmeter, check output voltage at center terminal with throttle plate closed (idle position) and wide open (full throttle). 2) With throttle plate closed (idle position), output voltage should be greater than 200 millivolts. With throttle plate wide open (full throttle), output voltage should be less than 4.8 volts. 3) Ensure output voltage gradually increases as throttle plate is moved from closed to wide open throttle. If no voltage exists, check for defective wiring circuits or connections. Replace TPS if defective. Also, the manual shows TCU pin D2 as the voltage feed for the TPS; D3 as the TPS ground. TCU pin D1 is marked unused. Willy, shoot me a PM with an email address and I can sent you the 88 AW4 Trans Diagnosis manual if you want. Good info.

I think it's unlikely both TCUs are bad and showing the same symptoms. Recommend testing the AW4 solenoids first. Between the AW4 and TCU there is a harness with a 7-pin connector right on the rear firewall, light gray or white in color. This harness supplies the signals from the TCU to the three solenoids in the tranny that control shifting and TC lockup. The coils on these solenoids can go bad and cause erratic shifting and should be tested with an ohmmeter. Open up the connector and check pins E, F, and G to ground, pin D on the tranny side of the connector. Each should read 13-15 ohms. If not, they have to be replaced which involves pulling the tranny pan. But ohm them out first to make sure they are okay.

I don't either. But I'm a transplanted Yank. :D One good thing though: spent most of the day in traffic running errands and the old girl kept cool even stuck in traffic staying right around 210*. The electric fans are working great.

106* with 76% humidity. Brutal............

By "intake" I assume you are referring to an intake manifold like this, si? How much more height do you need on the hood for clearance?

Most definitely. Same track bar as the 4WD. Only difference between 2WD and 4WD is the Tcase, diff in the middle of the beam, and axles. Still have to maintain the steering geometry in both.

:agree: I saw the SUs and first thought it was a Volvo 1800cc engine, but it's definitely Brit now that you mention it. :cheers:

R12 is still cheap and easy to get here, plus I have a stash. I've had a few R12 vehicles converted in the past, but it was never the same after the conversion. I'll stick with R12 as long as I can.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11693 I think you mean re-arch, si? I've only done that once before long ago (not an MJ) and they sagged back down to where they were before in about a year. Maybe it's more reliable now. How long will they guarantee the ride height?

New MT springs netted me 2-1/2" of lift from the original stock springs, then Teraflex shackles made up for the rest. Since you already have MT springs, your lift with new springs will depend on how shot they are. Give Tom at Hell Creek a call and explain your spring situation. Definitely do not recommend an AAL. He's a very reputable and knowledgeable vendor. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=19998

57" eye-to-eye actually. :cheers:

I have a similar OME lift minus the AAL - don't like AALs at all. :D Which MT springs do you have now, the 3+ 2 (three thin leafs w. 2 thick overload leafs) or the 4+1 (four thin leafs w. 1 thick overload leaf)?

No such thing as an OEM visor - only aftermarket.

Have to agree with this. I had to change only one coil that I can recall ever, through many many different vehicles. It was an aftermarket MSD coil on my 91 HO. It only lasted about 10K miles. Glad I kept the original as it's back enjoying life again. Lesson learned.

Build a cowl hood around it with the grille attached to the hood, as the W124 Mercedes models did.

Mountainman, you have to change your avatar mate. I can't concentrate on reading your posts with those magnificent hooters staring at me. :drool:

It only shows up in the 81-86 parts manual. It's specific for the 86 2.5 and 2.8. 11 TUBE ASSEMBLY *** 2.5L Four Cylinder 5200 0069, 1, 1984-85 5300 4247, 1, 1986 2.8L Six Cylinder 5200 0069, 1, 1984-85 5300 4247, 1, 1986

That looks like the one that was sold in Tampa about four months ago. Black rear bumper. Image Not Found

http://www.fourwheelerhb.com/ShowItem/111199%20HOSE.aspx This link shows they carry it and it's the correct part number.